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Old 11-12-2019, 09:04 AM
 
Location: Johns Creek, GA
17,403 posts, read 65,535,896 times
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There is a machine that is purpose built for removing VCT. But for such a small area, probably just sweat it out and do it manually. I'd stay away from heat- you could literally burn down the house.

There are trans' strips, but since it's running into a utility room- I wouldn't bother.
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Old 11-12-2019, 10:24 AM
 
Location: Grosse Ile Michigan
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Float it and put it on top of a drycore sub-floor or something similar. If installed properly it does not feel loose at all. Drycore does not help with a serious flood, but it provides protection form normal moisture an also a tiny pocket of insulation (air) so your do not have an icy cold floor all the time.

If you have enough headroom, it is a good idea to build a framed type floor that gives you a few inches of space for ventilation, moisture/water and insulating air, but that is really expensive.

Downside of drycore is it is OSB type for product and if it does get wet, you have to tear it out and replace it. Fortunately, it is pretty cheap.
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Old 11-12-2019, 12:00 PM
 
Location: D.C.
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Thanks guys! Looks like I’m in for some soreness on this one!
I saw that tool K’ at the rental shop once, and agree it’s likely overkill for something like this. I have to go back for a 3rd time on the concrete grinder this weekend to smooth out a hump in the floor that was well hidden with the rubber mats. If we’re just struggling beyond belief to get this stuff up by then, it might be worth the rental. Hope not though. What I might do on the transition piece might be to get some heavy duty tape and go that route with a sacrificial piece of the flooring to hold it all together. I’m glueing each piece together at the tongue/groove, and was worried a little bit about an end piece just sitting out there exposed. Will. Have to cross that bridge when I get it it.. I’m so ready for this project to be finished! I haven’t even gotten to sanding down the stairs (Pine) to see if we have something workable to stain, or start ripping out the treads and replace with oak instead. Oak would be better, but painful on the wallet. Might start a different thread for that one.

Thanks Coldjensens - but I’m long past that point in the project. I’ve been floating with a 1/8th cork + vapor barrier thus far already. About 1,700sf and this is about the last 300 of it.

When this is done - my “entire floor” reflooring days are done, forever! Won’t rule out a bedroom here and there, but taking on entire levels by myself is a serious chore. Especially when you’re normally a lazy banker!
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Old 11-16-2019, 02:32 PM
 
Location: D.C.
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Well....I figured out the cause for the mold. See the photos...

It’s the main sweating in the concrete is my guess, as we do not have a leak showing at the street meter. Now granted not much mold for nearly 20 years of being covered by heavy duty rubber gym mats. The glue is tacky though when I pulled the tiles. You can tell clearly where they installed the hookup to the main and poured the concrete. Not sure why it’s not a direct shot and why the curves, but whatever..

Question - will my vapor barrier be good here? Or do I have a bigger problem that needs to be addressed?

I caved and rented the power floor scraper. My 26 year old self bought the hand scrapper, and my 46 year old self ended up disagreeing and decided life’s to short to not spend the $65...

Edit - I’m forbidden from accessing the server to post pictures now? Huh?
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Old 11-16-2019, 03:51 PM
 
Location: D.C.
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Here are photos. Weird I couldn’t add to the post above...
Attached Thumbnails
Basement engineered wood floor install-c63c8c46-00fd-4201-85df-6c1595ba786e.jpeg   Basement engineered wood floor install-c20e0e32-b744-4f6f-92e7-8be1cbba3102.jpeg   Basement engineered wood floor install-f567b472-672f-43c2-8e89-17996bfe0fae.jpeg  
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Old 11-17-2019, 09:01 AM
 
Location: Johns Creek, GA
17,403 posts, read 65,535,896 times
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The "problem", there's most likely no vapor barrier between the supply line and the concrete. And if that foam insulation (on the exposed part of the line) is also covering the line under the concrete it most likely is holding moisture- until the point of saturation.

Short of digging it up and doing it "better"- I'd try sealing the concrete (if you can get it dry enough) before continuing with the flooring. The vapor barrier will most likely protect the wood, but when the mold/mildew start growing again you'll have that mold/mildew smell for sure.
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Old 11-18-2019, 06:58 AM
 
Location: D.C.
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Thanks K’!

Wouldn’t I need to grind off the glue residue as well to get the sealer to penetrate the concrete? Man, that’s gonna be a chore... :-(

When we pulled the rubber mats, it nearly immediately freshened up the whole place - god only knows how much nasty sweat was in those things from previous owner (who was a workout buff with the Redskins). But when I pulled the tile, The smell went to moisture and earthly. I parked the dehumidifier in there to help speed it along.

Do you think I could double-barrier that area instead? Maybe plastic barrier directly on to the concrete and glue + tape the edges of the plastic sheet - basically entomb the area under plastic, then roll my normal cork+barrier on top of that? Think that might work to contain the eventual return of the mold, and musty smell? I’m a little encouraged in that it was nearly 20 years of the old arrangement and the mold wasn’t terribly bad, but certainly present. I’d of thought it would’ve been way worse?

As always, my many thanks!!
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Old 11-18-2019, 12:25 PM
 
Location: Johns Creek, GA
17,403 posts, read 65,535,896 times
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I'm thinking more of keeping the moisture "in" the concrete.

Doing a "double barrier" won't make any difference- but if there were any minute hole(s) in the cork/vapor barrier the plastic (like 6mil min.) would most likely help.

Looking more like a "damned if you do; damned if you don't!"
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Old 11-18-2019, 12:47 PM
 
6,336 posts, read 4,053,206 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K'ledgeBldr View Post
I'm thinking more of keeping the moisture "in" the concrete.

Doing a "double barrier" won't make any difference- but if there were any minute hole(s) in the cork/vapor barrier the plastic (like 6mil min.) would most likely help.

Looking more like a "damned if you do; damned if you don't!"
The only possible precautionary measure now would be concrete sealer which might help to mitigate the moisture that makes it to the surface of the slab.
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Old 11-18-2019, 01:37 PM
 
Location: D.C.
2,867 posts, read 3,504,923 times
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Yeah, screw it, what’s another handful of Advil for the damned! Ha’

I’ll get the grinder again (just returned it this morning along with the tile removal machine) and take off the glue, get it down to the raw concrete and pour sealant on it. Might as well do it right (as much as possible without jacking out the line and redoing it that way).

Any suggestions on what type of sealant I should use? The area impacted is pretty rough concrete, likely to soak it up pretty well. The rest of the concrete is smooth and likely won’t soak it up much - clearly two different pours, one being foundational and the other after the fact when the water line was hooked up after plumbing was ready.

I’ll also double-up on the vapor barrier for this section as well to be extra safe, since it’s clearly the only area of moisture I’ve come across down there. So it’ll be concrete, 6mm vapor barrier, ⅛ inch cork, 6mm vapor barrier. I’ll get some heavy duty tape and tape down the first layer to try and seal it up.

I haven’t even gotten to the stairs yet. That’ll be fun, and I have a few “how to” questions on it as well! And I hate stairs.. Don’t say shoe molding K’, it’s Christmas time, not nice!
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