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We are installing cedar siding on an addition. I know you are supposed to prime or stain the cut edges before installation. What I can’t seem to find out is if it’s necessary to prime the back side of the boards? We will be using solid stain on the outside, and will probably just use Kilz on the cut edges, since I haven’t decided what color the stain will be yet.
I seem to remember watching them install cedar shingles on This Old House, and they didn’t prime them first.
No. It doesn't need to be stained either.
That was always the largest the appeal of using cedar.
I'd still do it. Stain. Not paint.
We have some existing cedar siding that is already covered in a solid stain, so that is why we have to use solid stain also, since we want a different color. Too bad, because I would like the natural.
Cedar is soft and porous compared to other woods so it breathes well and would not be necessary to back-prime the material.
Since you are using solid stain, you have great sun protection for the wood. On our last house, I installed clear tongue & groove cedar and it was a nightmare to keep it looking good with a semi transparent stain.
It need attention every 3 years and I finally went with a semi-solid stain to minimize the maintenance and re-applying a new top coat.
We are installing cedar siding on an addition. I know you are supposed to prime or stain the cut edges before installation. What I can’t seem to find out is if it’s necessary to prime the back side of the boards? We will be using solid stain on the outside, and will probably just use Kilz on the cut edges, since I haven’t decided what color the stain will be yet.
I seem to remember watching them install cedar shingles on This Old House, and they didn’t prime them first.
Soft woods, like cedar, accept stain in weird ways. There are hard spots and soft spots, and the stain will 'blotch' if not sealed.
In any event- end sealing and back sealing the unexposed surface will prolong the life of the siding.
In 1999 we built a cedar sided house in WV and it is VERY important in humid environments. At the time we followed the protocol using Sikkens products and we still had to re 'stain' the wood after 5 years.
It's one of those things you really have to get it right to protect your investment. You don't want to skimp here.
Soft woods, like cedar, accept stain in weird ways. There are hard spots and soft spots, and the stain will 'blotch' if not sealed.
In any event- end sealing and back sealing the unexposed surface will prolong the life of the siding.
In 1999 we built a cedar sided house in WV and it is VERY important in humid environments. At the time we followed the protocol using Sikkens products and we still had to re 'stain' the wood after 5 years.
It's one of those things you really have to get it right to protect your investment. You don't want to skimp here.
Exactly correct and Sikkens was the best name in lasting stains and finishes. The Proluxe Carol SRD (translucent) was considered to be one of the best possible stains for cedar. I believe that company now merged with PPG.
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