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I've had some work done...tile laid in the laundry room where the back door is. Unfortunately the tile contractor was a blooming idiot and quit before taking care of the finishing touches.
So the back door won't open all the way. The metal laminate (is that the right term?) is peeling away from the door, and it only opens about halfway. The way the door is positioned in a corner I can just barely squeeze my way out the opening.
I don't think you can just trim off an exterior door with the metal on it, or can you?
Or do I have to buy a new door that is 1/4" shorter?
What exactly is catching? Is it the sweep (strip that probably has a brush or rubber strip extending from the bottom of the door to the floor, the whole assembly being screwed to the door ), the kick plate (metal rectangle at the bottom of the door to prevent scuffs from ... kicking), or the structure of the door itself?
If it is an all metal door, no, not easy to resize.
No, exterior doors can also be wood.
I have never tried to purchase a door with custom dimensions. I imagine it can be done, not sure what the upcharge would be.
I think the door is wood, and is clad with a full sheet of metal on both sides. Like a sandwich. The underside of the door is catching, but in the process is also pulling apart the metal.
I can't really see what the sweep looks like without taking the door off the hinges. And I'm reluctant to try that by myself.
Sounds like your tile guy was an idiot. Or was simply more interested in getting paid for the job than actually doing what you needed.
If you change flooring, you need to take into account any variation in height. It has an impact on transitions (room to room, or changes of flooring type), molding, and doors.
A quick online search shows custom doors are available. That will require somebody to hang it as well. That person should either reuse existing hinge points, or be competent to patch and paint the existing, while mortising a place in the frame for the new ones.
Make sure to get a solid core door. Metal clad will be more weather resistant, but a good solid door with exterior paint will do fine in most circumstances. Depends on your weather and exposure of the door.
Did you have a GC on this job? Did you spec out scope of work or did the GC? You may have some recourse depending on your contract. If you specifically contracted for a tile floor, it is going to be on you to address emergent issues or omissions, because you asked for a very specific thing. If the contract is more expansive, and calls for the job to be done in a workmanlike manner, coordinated with other trades, preserving all functional components, you have an argument to be made for compensation.
It gets complicated quickly, which is why architects and project managers are a great idea for larger jobs. For a small job, sometimes it just makes sense to swallow the extra cost.
But...isn't the ability to move it higher limited by the height of the door frame?
As I stated previously- move the "door unit". That's the door AND frame/jamb. There's usually about an inch- inch and half between the door frame and the rough opening/header.
Doors come in standard sizes- replacing the current door with another door will not change the outcome- it's where it's set that makes the difference. In your case, it's a matter of adding a 3/8-1/2" strip of plywood under the current threshold, and resetting the unit.
As I stated previously- move the "door unit". That's the door AND frame/jamb. There's usually about an inch- inch and half between the door frame and the rough opening/header.
Doors come in standard sizes- replacing the current door with another door will not change the outcome- it's where it's set that makes the difference. In your case, it's a matter of adding a 3/8-1/2" strip of plywood under the current threshold, and resetting the unit.
I think what these guys are trying to say is, find a competent professional and have him/her take care of it. A professional contractor or handyman, someone who actually knows what they are doing. I can tell from your name and posts this project is above your pay grade. It can most likely be repaired far cheaper that buying a new door, the pro can tell you the best way to proceed after inspecting it. Good luck...
A skilled tradesman should remove the casing from the head on the interior side of the door to be sure the ears have not already be cut off the jamb and there is sufficient room between the jamb and header to raise the door.
Any decent carpenter should realize that, but then again the tile installer missed what a lay person would have immediately questioned before starting the job! There’s no limit to the amount of Hacks out there.
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