Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
Looking at a dryer for someone during these times where so many are out of work.. I have two theories on the problem.. Just want to run it past some others and get opinions.
It's a Maytag Performa, I don't have the precise model.
Set the timer, hit the button.. It will start, then stop about 3-5 seconds later. Hit the button again, it runs for 3-5 seconds. ONE TIME.. With it empty.. I started it and it just ran the entire cycle. Put a very light load in it, and couldn't get that to happen again.
Previously I have replaced the entire thermal cutoff on the dryer (year or two ago) after it had failed. In that instance, as I recall, dryer wouldn't start at all.
Lint filter/exhaust don't seem obstructed. I pulled it out and started it and it blew plenty of air out the back, you can tell it is heating. Drum does turn, but see more on that below.
I've got two theories on it.. First is that the run windings on the motor are open. This particular dryer has a 'start' winding and a 'run' winding.
second is that we're tripping a motor overload due to some issue with rotation. The drum turns, but it seems awfully tough to turn by hand. Just seems stiff. Not making any noises or anything that keyed me that we had a seized bearing or broken rollers or anything. Belt is in fine condition.
No difference between 'air dry' and 'heated dry' functions. So, I'm pretty much eliminating anything with the heating circuit there.
Just seeing if anyone has any comments/thoughts that I'm not considering.. Any experience with this particular dryer line that this keys an immediate thought.
Appreciate it, but that's likely not the issue. Start switch, if that was the problem, it wouldn't start at all or, as it says, stops when you let go of the button.. If I hold the button down, it still shuts down after 3-5 seconds.. It just starts right back up again because i'm still holding the button.
Also not the door switch. Bypassed that bastard already.
Looking at a dryer for someone during these times where so many are out of work.. I have two theories on the problem.. Just want to run it past some others and get opinions.
It's a Maytag Performa, I don't have the precise model.
Set the timer, hit the button.. It will start, then stop about 3-5 seconds later. Hit the button again, it runs for 3-5 seconds. ONE TIME.. With it empty.. I started it and it just ran the entire cycle. Put a very light load in it, and couldn't get that to happen again.
Previously I have replaced the entire thermal cutoff on the dryer (year or two ago) after it had failed. In that instance, as I recall, dryer wouldn't start at all.
Lint filter/exhaust don't seem obstructed. I pulled it out and started it and it blew plenty of air out the back, you can tell it is heating. Drum does turn, but see more on that below.
I've got two theories on it.. First is that the run windings on the motor are open. This particular dryer has a 'start' winding and a 'run' winding.
second is that we're tripping a motor overload due to some issue with rotation. The drum turns, but it seems awfully tough to turn by hand. Just seems stiff. Not making any noises or anything that keyed me that we had a seized bearing or broken rollers or anything. Belt is in fine condition.
No difference between 'air dry' and 'heated dry' functions. So, I'm pretty much eliminating anything with the heating circuit there.
Just seeing if anyone has any comments/thoughts that I'm not considering.. Any experience with this particular dryer line that this keys an immediate thought.
No experience with the Maytag, my dryer was shutting off like that. It turned out to be a lint build up from the laundry room wall to the roof. Our laundry room is on the 2nd floor, so there's a lot of vent space to get clogged. It blew a fuse that had to get replaced. I see that you said the vent didn't seem clogged, sounds like something is tripping the fuse.
See this page - Maytag Performa Models Dryer Repair, scroll down; 3) Drum doesn’t turn - then scroll down to almost the bottom of the page, you'll see Figure NN-4: Drum Support Rollers on the right, on the left drum removal there are a few parts that can be worn preventing the drum from freely spinning
Quote:
The drum support rollers are held to their shafts by a spring clip. (Figure NN-4) Check for free movement and wear and replace if bad.
The teflon friction surface of the drum support glide(s) can be easily removed and replaced. (Figure NN-5) Simply slip one end out of the slot and then slip the notched end off the pins that hold it in place.
The front and rear felt drum seals can also be inspected for wear at this point. They are glued in place. If you need to replace them, scrape them off and glue new ones on. When re-assembling the dryer, make sure these felt seals are not pinched or wrinkled.
Dryer drums should turn easily. I suspect a problem with the belt or bearings. How old is it?
I don't quite know.. It was my Grandmother's.. My uncle took it after her death in '14.. So.. At least 10 years, probably closer to 15.. But.. "gently used"
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roselvr
No experience with the Maytag, my dryer was shutting off like that. It turned out to be a lint build up from the laundry room wall to the roof. Our laundry room is on the 2nd floor, so there's a lot of vent space to get clogged. It blew a fuse that had to get replaced. I see that you said the vent didn't seem clogged, sounds like something is tripping the fuse.
See this page - Maytag Performa Models Dryer Repair, scroll down; 3) Drum doesn’t turn - then scroll down to almost the bottom of the page, you'll see Figure NN-4: Drum Support Rollers on the right, on the left drum removal there are a few parts that can be worn preventing the drum from freely spinning
Certainly not lint buildup there, because, as I mentioned, I disconnected the outlet hose. I got output from the back, but I didn't do a full enough check for lint obstruction.. so, certainly need to double check that.
My next idea that i'm going to try is actually disconnecting the belt. Then let the motor free-spin. There doesn't seem to be any 'broken belt' detection on this one, so.. If the motor shuts off without driving anything.. that 'should' give an answer as to whether it's anything in the drive overloading the motor.
I just.. I've never had a roller go out without an indication ahead of time. Some kind of noise coming from it or similar. Usually, you replace them before they totally die because you're sick of all the grinding/whining they're making.
That being said.. It could have been whining like a bastard and he just neglected to tell me that important piece of information.
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
