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You need to ask yourself, why are the hinge screws of this door loosening? My house was built in 1939, we've owned it since 1973, and if anyone's ever needed to tighten the hinge screws of the doors, I think I'd remember it.
My guess would be screws too small and too short in a pilot hole that's too large. I'd at least consider smallifying the pilot holes with toothpicks, or golf tees, or 1/4" dowel, and glue, redrill if needed using the correct pilot hole size, and put in longer screws (if the next size up will fit, try that, but it probably won't).
If you treat one screw hole at a time, it'll take you at least 6 days but you won't lose alignment in the process. (Assuming 3 screws per side per hinge per door - so you do one of 6 screws on the jamb side and one of six on the door side each day, allowing glue to cure in between.)
You need to ask yourself, why are the hinge screws of this door loosening? My house was built in 1939, we've owned it since 1973, and if anyone's ever needed to tighten the hinge screws of the doors, I think I'd remember it.
Because this house was newly built and undoubtedly uses 7/8" screws into cheesewood, not 2" screws into oak or hard pine.
Buy a pack of matching screws in 2-3" length (even HD/Lowe's sells them). Replace one screw in each hinge with such, maybe two or all three in the top one. Usually the door holds screws well enough; it's the crapwood jamb that doesn't.
With exterior door, the manufacturers now leave two screws out of the top hinge and installation sheet that two long screws be installed through the hinge into the wood framing beyond the door jamb, it just so happens I hung one today.
The door jambs are 3/4 material so the screws have little bite especially if the door is solid or a fiberglass or steel door with glass. A decent builder should always use longer screws to properly secure the jamb and hinges and certainly the top hinge at a minimum!
Ha! You clearly haven’t seen the steel doors I’ve seen! They’re no different from the OP problem- except it’s a poorly installed frame, versus a loose screw(s).
Because this house was newly built and undoubtedly uses 7/8" screws into cheesewood, not 2" screws into oak or hard pine.
Buy a pack of matching screws in 2-3" length (even HD/Lowe's sells them). Replace one screw in each hinge with such, maybe two or all three in the top one. Usually the door holds screws well enough; it's the crapwood jamb that doesn't.
This exactly. You only need to remove the middle screw in the top hinge on the jamb not the door. The middle screw is offset farther in toward the middle of the frame. Replace it with a 3 inch screw of the same size. Three inch drywall screws work great for this or you can buy 3 inch steel screws that match your original screws. Run it in and it will screw into the stud behind the jamb and just tighten it a little. See if the rubbing has stopped and if not tighten it just a little more. This is a common practice for settling doors.
You only need to remove the middle screw in the top hinge on the jamb not the door.
Which screw to replace is totally dependent on where the door is rubbing the frame.
The middle screw is offset farther in toward the middle of the frame. Replace it with a 3 inch screw of the same size. Three inch drywall screws work great for this...
Drywall screws SHOULD NOT be used for hinges. Drywall screws are bulge or bell shaped at the head- they can pull through the hinge very easily. Or if too big, will not seat flush with the hinge face.
This is a common practice for settling doors.
Doors don't settle. Doors expand and contract, like their frames, but at different rates due to different materials. Frames can move, because framing "shrinks" in new builds.
I have doors that stick in summer and are fine in winter when the humidity goes down.
OMG yes, I am having this problem with my bathroom door. When i had all my doors replaced I especially wanted the bathroom door fram itself replaced, but when i came home all of them were replaced except the bathroom and the man used the frame that was exisitng, because of the tiles, etc, whatever.
lesson learned, ALWAYS be home and dont let someone else be there when you want something done.
So, i had used my electric hand sander to sand the top portion of the door, hence removing all the stain, but at this point i dont even care until winter, but it seemed exceptionally worse this summer. My apartment is all A/C except the bathroom as i dont like an A/C bathroom, ( I have a regular sie window) but the sticking is really terrible this summer as it the humidity, all my other doors are fine.
So, this winter I will really have to electric sand it, then re stain and varnish to make it look better.
OMG how i wanted the new door fram so this problem would not have of happened (the old door sucked as well)
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