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We had a backup at a rental house we owned and the plumber said we should have the camera put in to see what was going on because he couldn't find a reason. The cast iron re-lining plumber could not find anything wrong but tried to put the fear of god in us that the pipes could go at any time! and cost us $10,000 to jackhammer up the concrete to replace pipes if we did not re-line our pipes ASAP! Their relining would "only cost $5000".
We called a second company who gave us the same story, found nothing wrong but "we better do it". This one wanted to "jet out" the pipe that went to the kitchen to see what what up although the backup was not there it was in a shower. My opinion was the hi-pressure jetting would create a problem they would then get paid to fix.
Then we called our towns small water department and they sent employee who put their camera down and told us he wouldn't do anything. No charge and he wouldn't take a $20 either.
If you know for sure you have a leak then get it relined and get 2 estimates. I would not jet out anything that has not leaked. These companies love senior citizens who fear the worst. Easy pickings.
The other question I have is about replacing the galvanized hot and cold water pipes. I think the zinc coat is long gone after 60 years and don't know how bad the pipes corrode and rust. Currently I don't see the domestic water system pipes run when I get on to the attic above the ceiling. So if I end up replacing the galvanized pipes, the way to avoid open up drywall too much is to run the new pipes (copper or PEX) in the hot/cold attic and drop down to each faucet in the bathrooms and kitchen and abandon the galvanized pipes in place.
Any recommendations?
We had a backup at a rental house we owned and the plumber said we should have the camera put in to see what was going on because he couldn't find a reason. The cast iron re-lining plumber could not find anything wrong but tried to put the fear of god in us that the pipes could go at any time! and cost us $10,000 to jackhammer up the concrete to replace pipes if we did not re-line our pipes ASAP! Their relining would "only cost $5000".
We called a second company who gave us the same story, found nothing wrong but "we better do it". This one wanted to "jet out" the pipe that went to the kitchen to see what what up although the backup was not there it was in a shower. My opinion was the hi-pressure jetting would create a problem they would then get paid to fix.
Then we called our towns small water department and they sent employee who put their camera down and told us he wouldn't do anything. No charge and he wouldn't take a $20 either.
If you know for sure you have a leak then get it relined and get 2 estimates. I would not jet out anything that has not leaked. These companies love senior citizens who fear the worst. Easy pickings.
No waste line leak in the house. The cast iron pipes still work. The leak is from the fiberglass bathtub.
I'd personally save up and get all of it done at once (pipe lining & pex replacement). I've found when you offer a bigger job to a single trade contractor, the total cost of the work comes in lower than doing components separately, sometimes significantly so.
The other question I have is about replacing the galvanized hot and cold water pipes. I think the zinc coat is long gone after 60 years and don't know how bad the pipes corrode and rust. Currently I don't see the domestic water system pipes run when I get on to the attic above the ceiling. So if I end up replacing the galvanized pipes, the way to avoid open up drywall too much is to run the new pipes (copper or PEX) in the hot/cold attic and drop down to each faucet in the bathrooms and kitchen and abandon the galvanized pipes in place.
Any recommendations?
Unless you live within 10degrees of the equator, running a supply system through an attic is a high risk to future water damage due to failure or freezing.
Unless you live within 10degrees of the equator, running a supply system through an attic is a high risk to future water damage due to failure or freezing.
I totally agree but perhaps this house is built on a slab without access below, however that has not been mentioned by the OP unless I missed it!
Unless you live within 10degrees of the equator, running a supply system through an attic is a high risk to future water damage due to failure or freezing.
To me it's like pick a poison: live with the old galvanized water pipe like I have been for 8 years and in the next 20 years OR getting the risk of water damage by running the water pipe up in the attic because there's no other way of installing new pipes.
No freezing in California but there are small earthquakes every year. These shakes or very hot attic might cause connection failure. To minimize the risk of failure, should I go with copper or PEX? I thought those copper solder connections in the attic might fail. How about PEX compression type? or clamps?
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