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Our carriage house is partly finished upstairs. Just studs for interior walls.
We had a wall built for future a bathroom. It is wired but not plumbed. I since realized the bathroom area is way too small for a bathroom. I would like to remove the wire, and slide a demo saw blade under and over the studwall, cut it loose and move the studwall intact to the next rafter.
The wall is sloped to match the roof and goes from about 3 feet at one end to about 8 or 9 feet on the other.
Has anyone ever tried this? I would prefer to move the wall intact because I do not have the skill to try to match the angles if I had to demo the wall and build a whole new wall. (Maybe I could figure it out with a lot of tries, but it would be a royal PIA. If I can move the wall intact, then I can DIY. If I have to demo and rebuild, I will probably have to hire someone. If you have done this successfully, do you have any tips for getting the Sawzall blade in, or for other ways to remove the nails? The heads are too deep into the wood to pull them out with a claw or an antique nail puller. The studwall is wedged pretty tightly against the rafter. They did attach a wide board to the rafter (like a 1x4 or 1x6) as a spacer above the studwall.
Second question. The entire back of the bathroom is basically unusable until you get about three feet away from the wall. (Because of the sloping roof, there is not enough room to stand). I hate to have that space just as wasted space. Other than some low shelves, any ideas for the use of this space? Have you seen any creative uses for such space?
I will try to add some pictures when I get a chance (maybe this weekend).
Our carriage house is partly finished upstairs. Just studs for interior walls.
We had a wall built for future a bathroom. It is wired but not plumbed. I since realized the bathroom area is way too small for a bathroom. I would like to remove the wire, and slide a demo saw blade under and over the studwall, cut it loose and move the studwall intact to the next rafter.
The wall is sloped to match the roof and goes from about 3 feet at one end to about 8 or 9 feet on the other.
Has anyone ever tried this? I would prefer to move the wall intact because I do not have the skill to try to match the angles if I had to demo the wall and build a whole new wall. (Maybe I could figure it out with a lot of tries, but it would be a royal PIA. If I can move the wall intact, then I can DIY. If I have to demo and rebuild, I will probably have to hire someone. If you have done this successfully, do you have any tips for getting the Sawzall blade in, or for other ways to remove the nails? The heads are too deep into the wood to pull them out with a claw or an antique nail puller. The studwall is wedged pretty tightly against the rafter. They did attach a wide board to the rafter (like a 1x4 or 1x6) as a spacer above the studwall.
Second question. The entire back of the bathroom is basically unusable until you get about three feet away from the wall. (Because of the sloping roof, there is not enough room to stand). I hate to have that space just as wasted space. Other than some low shelves, any ideas for the use of this space? Have you seen any creative uses for such space?
I will try to add some pictures when I get a chance (maybe this weekend).
Could you build a low storage unit in the area with the sloping roof? There's always a need for storage for towels, TP, cleaning materials, etc. in any bathroom, I would think.
If the wall was added after the fact, it's almost certainly not load bearing. There's no reason you couldn't do as you suggested, cut it off top and bottom and move it over intact. It should be relatively simple and uneventful (famous last words).
Well, get your Sawzall and cut the nails that hold the top and bottom plates, then try to slide it over and find out whether or not all the angles match.
When you get good and tired of all that noise, rip the whole thing out and just build a new wall where you really want it.
Or, you know, you could just go straight to the solution.
Just because you can do something doesn't make it a good idea.
I suggest you deconstruct the current wall and then build the new wall where you want it.
It sounds like you weren't thinking ahead on the plans. Perhaps you could have constructed a dormer for the bathroom so you wouldn't have one end only 3 feet tall. I'll just assume there was a good reason not to.
Maybe it isn't too late to do that since you are already remodeling your new construction.
It’s a simple job for someone with basic carpentry skills and even if you detach and move the entire wall, it might not fit exactly at the next rafter/joist location and probably need the same blocking between the rafters for attachment and sheetrock nailers at the back corner.
It your pondering the complexity, just hire a person since it sounds like it’s less than a days work.
If you're looking are bare studs, it always looks like the rooms are tiny. Once they're finished it's probably going to be fine. That said, we had an upstairs bathroom with sloping walls, and when we remodeled, I had them install shelves there - it was perfect for towels and bath accessories.
"cut it loose and move the studwall intact to the next rafter."
So you want to move the wall and only gain 16" ? Dimensions of the wall ?
Regards
Gemstone1
No our rafters are 24" or 36" apart (I think 36"). This is an old building from when lumber still had strength. The inspector made us put in addition "rafters" @16" but they do not do anything. They do not even touch the roof sheathing (which is T & G slats). The new rafters are modern lumber sizes while the old ones are true. The contractor knew the new rafters were useless but would be helpful for installing a drywall ceiling so he set them flush with the existing on the inside rather than the outside. (our local inspector is/was pretty much an idiot).
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