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Old 01-08-2021, 01:52 AM
 
Location: Troy, Michigan
402 posts, read 421,584 times
Reputation: 262

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Hi everyone,

I live in Michigan and even though it's a "warm" winter this year so far, it's still hovering around the freezing mark 32F (0C) +/- a few degrees. (I'm a man by the way, my writing style seems to scream female when I write, this is why I bring it up). And every year without fail the deadbolt locks get stuck and I cannot lock the door (turn the key) no matter how much pressure I apply. I saw a video on YouTube where a man used a product called Heet on a gas powered vehicle he had that was started with a key in winter.

It is so very frustrating to have to ask for assistance to turn the key to lock the door when this happens(!). Does anyone have any advice, perhaps a spray like Heet. Would WD40 work? What do you fellow people in colder climates do to alleviate this annoying issue?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-08-2021, 06:36 AM
 
6,333 posts, read 4,050,972 times
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Are you certain that the problem is with the deadbolt, or could it be the latch bolt is being picked in the strike plate due to the jamb/door alignment moving slightly due to temperature and moisture differences?

Check to be sure the latch is free when cold and if so, just use a good lock graphite, Break-free Clp or DuPont Teflon Non Stick which is said to be the best at keeping lubricated to prevent freezing or sticking.
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Old 01-08-2021, 07:15 AM
 
11,230 posts, read 9,153,045 times
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Well, you've got three potential causes I can think of.

1) The little pins in the lock cylinder freezing
2) The lock mechanism freezing, so although you can rotate the cylinder, you can't advance or retract the bolt.
3) The house shifts and the bolt's no longer lined up with the hole in the jamb.

Causes (1) and (2) are probably because you've got some residual liquid water in there which freezes. When the temperature is well above freezing, spraying WD40 IN THE CORRECT PLACE could help to drive that water out. To address #2 you're going to have to take cover plates off to access the internal mechanism; you may need to remove the lock from the door altogether. And if you do that, then lubricating all the works with a good white lithium grease will do a lot better than spraying WD40. But the real question about causes (1) and (2) is how does water get in there in the first place? You may have a poorly sheltered door location or an issue with the lock installation.

For #3 you'll need to enlarge the hole in the jamb. A Dremel tool with a carbide burr does good work at this.
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Old 01-08-2021, 10:18 AM
 
Location: Johns Creek, GA
17,403 posts, read 65,528,173 times
Reputation: 23515
“Every year without fail...”

That says everything- you have an alignment issue due to contraction of wood. Either the door, the door jamb, or the framing of the house itself is shrinking/moving just enough due to the dry cold air. That in-turn causes a mis-alignment of the bolt to the striker plate.

As suggested previously (I do not recommend) enlarging the hole in the jamb will most certainly cure the problem; but it will also create another problem- a loose fitting door that will leak air. The best course of action is to re-align the striker plate and/or check the tightness of the lockset/deadbolt (perhaps it’s loose and has dropped a bit).

All of this is of course goes out the window if the lockset/deadbolt does not function properly when the door is open. In that case, it’s probably just time to get a new lockset/deadbolt.
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Old 01-08-2021, 10:43 AM
 
11,230 posts, read 9,153,045 times
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Problem with realigning the striker plate is if the house goes one way in the summer and the other way in the winter.

I once made up a special striker plate of 1/8 steel with a very long slot to accommodate a door that did just that, regularly like clockwork.
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Old 01-08-2021, 12:28 PM
 
Location: Johns Creek, GA
17,403 posts, read 65,528,173 times
Reputation: 23515
Quote:
Originally Posted by turf3 View Post
Problem with realigning the striker plate is if the house goes one way in the summer and the other way in the winter.

I once made up a special striker plate of 1/8 steel with a very long slot to accommodate a door that did just that, regularly like clockwork.
Then you “even” your adjustments in the Spring or Autumn- Yes?
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Old 01-08-2021, 01:46 PM
 
11,230 posts, read 9,153,045 times
Reputation: 32246
Well, the bolt was at the top of the slot in winter and the bottom of the slot in summer and somewhere in between the rest of the time - or something like that.
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Old 01-08-2021, 01:53 PM
 
Location: Grosse Ile Michigan
30,701 posts, read 79,330,237 times
Reputation: 39408
If it is frozen from cold and moisture, rubbing alcohol will melt it. If it is frozen from rust, you will need to take it apart and scrub the rust off the affected parts. .
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Old 01-09-2021, 03:51 AM
 
Location: Mountains of Oregon
17,608 posts, read 22,512,090 times
Reputation: 14310
I would try some WD-40 or PB Blaster. Spray the lock. If you can't unlock it, put the key in & tap the lock lightly with a small hammer. Try to spray the tumblers/bolt several times .
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Old 01-09-2021, 10:59 AM
 
2,561 posts, read 2,036,523 times
Reputation: 5643
Quote:
Originally Posted by K'ledgeBldr View Post
“Every year without fail...”

That says everything- you have an alignment issue due to contraction of wood. Either the door, the door jamb, or the framing of the house itself is shrinking/moving just enough due to the dry cold air. That in-turn causes a mis-alignment of the bolt to the striker plate.

As suggested previously (I do not recommend) enlarging the hole in the jamb will most certainly cure the problem; but it will also create another problem- a loose fitting door that will leak air. The best course of action is to re-align the striker plate and/or check the tightness of the lockset/deadbolt (perhaps it’s loose and has dropped a bit).

All of this is of course goes out the window if the lockset/deadbolt does not function properly when the door is open. In that case, it’s probably just time to get a new lockset/deadbolt.

Agreed, if every winter. That happens in climates like ours (I am in Minnesota), more common for newer-builds as more is occurring in the first ten years as the foundation settles and new materials shrink a bit as they dry and adjust to the settling.


Test the lock with the door open. If it works fine in that case but not when the deadbolt is actually engaged, K'ledgeBldr is pointing you in the right direction.
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