Looking for 1/4" X 6" X 8ft piece of oak lumber? (hardwood, room)
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There are some specialty stores for wood turners who carry boards like this. Googling woodworking supply stores will let you know if any are in your area.
There may also be lumber yards and people who make custom bookshelves who might carry it. Google lumber and millworking.
My dad has a table saw I can use, I had never thought of ripping a 1" (.75) board down the center to get a .25 thick plank, that should work just fine. Thank you.
I did look at oak plywood, but the thinnest they have is 1/2"
Plus, the other 8ft board Im left with will not go to waste, I will definitely use it in a future build.
Unless he has something out of a custom cabinetry shop (and even then, can't say I've heard of a table saw bigger than 10") the table saw isn't going to be able to cut through six inches. You could try and cut the first 3.5 then flip it over but that's dangerous and will then require a lot of planing to make it a useable piece.
Unless he has something out of a custom cabinetry shop (and even then, can't say I've heard of a table saw bigger than 10") the table saw isn't going to be able to cut through six inches. You could try and cut the first 3.5 then flip it over but that's dangerous and will then require a lot of planing to make it a useable piece.
Buy yourself a piece of 1/4x4x8 plywood.
Tablesaws do come larger than 10", but a 10" tablesaw will usually give a 3" + a little bit depth of cut. A competent woodworker wouldn't have any problem doing the cut/flip operation.
Unless he has something out of a custom cabinetry shop (and even then, can't say I've heard of a table saw bigger than 10") the table saw isn't going to be able to cut through six inches. You could try and cut the first 3.5 then flip it over but that's dangerous and will then require a lot of planing to make it a useable piece.
Buy yourself a piece of 1/4x4x8 plywood.
I just walked over to my shop and cut a bit of scrap for y'all. There is no more danger involved than any cut on a table saw, and less danger than some cuts. Here is how it is done.
1. The scrap is a nominal 2" x 8" I had lying around. Actual width is slightly more than 7" *Note that the OP has a nominal 6" width oak board.
2. I set the blade to about 1" and eyeballed the fence to a little more than 1/4"
3. The first cut.
4. The second cut.
5. With the blade raised fully, the results of the 3rd and 4th cut.
6. Showing the blade rises to 3" (Again, the OP has a board that is 6" nominal, which means less actual width.
7. The raw cut board, that I finished cutting on a bandsaw with a dull blade that wandered.
8. After 30 seconds on a belt sander. The other board is a resaw I did a while ago on a nominal 6" cedar board. Note how smooth it is. I've resawed many of these and never had kickback, a waste piece shoot out like an arrow, or any other issue.
Will those of you who don't know their tablesaw from a tablecloth please stop with the negative comments?
Last edited by harry chickpea; 06-16-2021 at 12:33 PM..
Tablesaws do come larger than 10", but a 10" tablesaw will usually give a 3" + a little bit depth of cut. A competent woodworker wouldn't have any problem doing the cut/flip operation.
My eight inch saw gives 3.5 inches, or just shy of it. But bigger ones are rarely seen in Dad's workshop.
Only because they wouldn't likely attempt it. Unless they're starting with a 3"x6" it's a recipe for OP to get smacked in the face with the workpiece.
He's taking a 1 or 2 inch piece and attempting to shear 1/4 inch off. He'll have to set it on the 1" side, and it's 8 feet long, so even with good feathering boards holding it to the fence, even with a nice size outfeed table, it will be difficult to hold the pressure downward when working on a 1 inch wide piece that's so high off the table.
And, all this assumes the table saw has the right blade in decent enough shape to make that cut work well, if Dad used it last for rebuilding the deck that's less than guaranteed.
I'd repeat my recommendation of a nice piece of 1/4 inch plywood.
I just walked over to my shop and cut a bit of scrap for y'all. There is no more danger involved than any cut on a table saw, and less danger than some cuts. Here is how it is done.
1. The scrap is a nominal 2" x 8" I had lying around. Actual width is slightly more than 7" *Note that the OP has a nominal 6" width oak board.
2. I set the blade to about 1" and eyeballed the fence to a little more than 1/4"
3. The first cut.
4. The second cut.
5. With the blade raised fully, the results of the 3rd and 4th cut.
6. Showing the blade rises to 3" (Again, the OP has a board that is 6" nominal, which means less actual width.
7. The raw cut board, that I finished cutting on a bandsaw with a dull blade that wandered.
8. After 30 seconds on a belt sander. The other board is a resaw I did a while ago on a nominal 6" cedar board. Note how smooth it is. I've resawed many of these and never had kickback, a waste piece shoot out like an arrow, or any other issue.
Will those of you who don't know their tablesaw from a tablecloth please stop with the negative comments?
Easy enough, for a short piece. No argument there. OP needs an 8 foot piece.
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