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I need an electric immersion element boiler for my bathroom that will heat water in minutes. I'm thinking 15 minutes for about 5 gallons. I looked at some on Amazon, but don't know which to buy. Some have bad reviews and I don't want to burn down the house or create an electrical issue. I also need the product to NOT burn itself. If anybody knows of a RELIABLE product, please post. Thanks!
You know, they have small water heaters, that have to meet standards (UL? Not sure which is the governing body) for safety - why don't you just buy an ordinary small water heater that's UL (or equiv.) listed, or a tankless heater that's UL (or equiv.) listed?
Don't make this more difficult than it is. Go to a real plumbing supply house and ask the nice man behind the counter for assistance.
You know, they have small water heaters, that have to meet standards (UL? Not sure which is the governing body) for safety - why don't you just buy an ordinary small water heater that's UL (or equiv.) listed, or a tankless heater that's UL (or equiv.) listed?
Don't make this more difficult than it is. Go to a real plumbing supply house and ask the nice man behind the counter for assistance.
There are very small electric water heaters. (They aren't called immersion heaters) I had one in one of my darkrooms. 15 min for five gallons is a push, energywise. Off the top of my head, that would take just under 1 KWH of electricity +-, so... maybe a 5,000 watt element? It requires a dedicated circuit. Mine was 15 gal, but I think you can get something with a five gallon tank.
If you only need a little water, there are electric teakettles and open water heating devices, but those are generally only for half a gallon or less.
If you just want an immersion heater, you are talking about a stock tank heater. Those (at least the one I have) have a thermal cutoff to keep stock from scalding themselves.
The closest I can think of offhand to a freestanding immersion heater that would do the job is a coconut oil can heater that has a calrod sword on it. We used those in theatre to liquefy the the solid coconut oil for the popcorn machines. It sat nicely on a metal five gallon Lou-Ana can and had a thermostat.
If you mean anything other than the above, please go ahead and 'splain.
Edit to add: Just looked at the thread title and you describe what you want as a "boiler." A boiler heats water to 212 F, setting it to boil, so that the steam can then be used. What are you wanting to boil or steam in your bathroom??? FWIW, that would take around 1.75 KWH, and need a larger element just to get it to that temperature. To have a usable amount of steam, energy draw suddenly increases even more to get the water to change state.
Last edited by harry chickpea; 03-06-2021 at 05:26 PM..
But not too pricey, that someone has actually tested the brand and recommends it.
OK, that is NOT a boiler. Clarity is important. You had people scratching their heads.
Five gallons is not a lot of water. An average tub holds about 40 gallons, so if you are planning on use for that, 1500 watts is seriously undersized. If you are planning on filling a bucket and then dumping that water into a tub, it is still going to be slower than allowing your water heater to recover and then running more hot water. An average electric water heater has an element that is 3800 or 4500 watts, more than twice the wattage of that heater by any stretch.
Now for what you don't want to hear. There is NO WAY I would allow such a device in my bathroom. EVER.
There is no GFI device on the cord, you are entirely dependent upon the correct wiring in the bathroom with a fully functional ground fault interrupter. If the wiring has been compromised, or the socket GFI doesn't work, you are using it in one of the most dangerous environments possible. With a stock tank heater, you are commonly wearing boots, are upright and often gloved. In a bathroom, you are nekkid with all sorts of exposed skin surface and chances for current to flow.
What happens when the insulation wears or overheats? If your breakers are working properly, there will be a short that trips the breaker. Again, I see nothing on the devices for overcurrent protection.
When an element like that runs dry, the best scenario is that the element heats up enough to go open circuit by melting. If there is no thermal switch at the element, it can overheat and char whatever is around. A fire would depend upon time left for charring or overheating, and the surrounding materials. Melting of the wire insulation is possible, with all that entails.
The safer way, by far, for more hot water is to turn the thermostat on your water heater up, giving it more effective capacity. Mine is turned as far up as it can go, and my Jacuzzi style tub gets full just as that 50 gal tank is starting to go cool. In 15 minutes, I have another ten or fifteen gallons of hot water to use if it chills.
I have used and continue to use immersion heaters, but the idea of using one like that in a bathroom is way beyond my comfort zone.
Beware of online reviews, as they are often paid shills.
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