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Last night on Antiques Roadshow, it was sad how the colonial furniture( highboy and card table) is devalued from what it was just a few years ago. We have Ethan Allen Cherry furniture as well as some mahogany pieces. It is so well built and withstood moves. When it is time for us to get rid of it ( or daughter has to dispose of it), it will be sad to see it not appreciated by the younger generations. We also have a 9 tube chimes Herschede grandfather. A few years ago it was going for over $10K. Now, I doubt we could get anything like that. It has been a true treasure and beautiful to both look at and listen to it. Maybe the styles will start to appreciate more than this mid-century minimalist look.
It's your Dad's furniture and he can do whatever he wants with it.
I once had all of the wood baseboards, crown moulding and window frames in an old house I bought taken by my contractor to some place where they had big vats of chemicals where you could dunk wood with layers of paint, that would remove the paint. It removed almost all of the many, many layers of paint. The house was built in 1907 and I bought it in 1980, so old wood with tons of layers of paint. It was cedar (built in WA). Was surprised that it was cedar, which I found really interesting.
Anyway, you might want to find out if there is such a place around anymore.
I used to use a chemical stripper and just get into grooves with a paintbrush. But, if they've watered down the strippers you can buy now, what a pain.
Another option would be to look for a group online for wood workers/refinishers. There's a group on facebook for the brand "General Finishes." You have to ask to join, as I recall, but they approve everyone. There are professionals in that group and you could ask there.
There are various types of product called strip eze. I can't recall which manufacturer and spelling of the product we used long ago on some old painted wooden furniture, but it saved a lot of work. Once everything was wiped off we used very fine sandpaper with a felt block (by hand) to get the few remnants off of the wood.
I second this. Use extra fine steel wool and a solvent in a hand pump spray bottle.
Spray a small area, wait a minute, spray a little more and rub the area with the steel wool, liquefying the finish, and then immediately wipe off the slurry with a clean rag. Repeat until done.
Spray, rub, spray, wipe. With the steel wool and solvent you will get all the shapes. Sandpaper will cut the wood, the fine steel wool will not.
You may need to find the right solvent. There is a chance the finish is real shellac, which will liquify with alcohol. Also try paint thinner, or maybe even acetone. If you don’t know what the finish actually is you will have to try and find the right solvent.
I second this. Use extra fine steel wool and a solvent in a hand pump spray bottle.
Spray a small area, wait a minute, spray a little more and rub the area with the steel wool, liquefying the finish, and then immediately wipe off the slurry with a clean rag. Repeat until done.
Spray, rub, spray, wipe. With the steel wool and solvent you will get all the shapes. Sandpaper will cut the wood, the fine steel wool will not.
You may need to find the right solvent. There is a chance the finish is real shellac, which will liquify with alcohol. Also try paint thinner, or maybe even acetone. If you don’t know what the finish actually is you will have to try and find the right solvent.
Correct....common 1940's furniture does not have much resale value. Most likely, there will be more $$$ wrapped up in the stripping/refinishing materials than the piece is worth....save for sentimental value.
Regards
Gemstone1
My dad is not concerned with the pieces value, he bought it somewhere, (im assuming very cheap if I know my dad, LOL) and he wants all the stain/varnish, etc removed and down to bare wood, he will be using this in his house, Im just doing the work for him, because he doesnt do this kind of work and doesnt have the patience to do it, plus I enjoy making an old piece look new again, (even if it de values it).
Dremel makes a countour sander. This comes with different bits in different shapes and special sandpaper tubes to fit over them.
Heat guns work best, sometimes you need to use dental picks to get the goop out of the tight crevices. If you use a heat gun, practice. Burning the wood will do even more damage than removing the finish in the first place.
You can also use chemicals and dental picks for the crevices and fine details. Not as risky or as skill oriented as heat guns, but you may need a dozen applications to get it clean.
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