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It was a real mistake buying phillips head screws, looking at some of the decking work done a few years ago, I used TORX head screws, and I remember those were much easier to drive with drill on driver setting, I wish I had remembered to buy TORX this time.
I typically like to drive my screws until the head is a little bit 'buried' into the wood, (just a hair though), I noticed yesterday driving some screws it would do this, but with others, the drill would max out when the screw still had about an inch to go, ( I had it on driver setting and the highest clutch setting it had), I presume this is due to variations in the density of the treated wood, I was overly impressed with the Milwaukee drill/driver.
Lubricate the threads. You're seeing variability in friction in the screw threads. Even with metal on metal threads unlubricated threads can give a variation of 50 or 60% in screw tension for a given torque whereas with lubrication you can reduce that down to 15% or so. With wood the friction of unlubricated threads is much higher from the get-go. You're putting almost all your torque into rotating the screw and almost none of it into tensioning the screw. Lubricate the threads.
Impacts used on phillips-heads can be kinda tricky. You want to make sure your bit is in pristine condition and well-fitted with the screws you are using.
Impacts used on phillips-heads can be kinda tricky. You want to make sure your bit is in pristine condition and well-fitted with the screws you are using.
Well, don't do that. Don't mix an impact driver with a drive shape that's emphatically NOT designed for impact loading. Phillips drive was originally invented for low torque screws being installed by power drivers without clutches - the driver camming out of the head was the torque limiting feature. You can force a Phillips drive to take a certain amount of torque but you're trying to drag a 15,000 lb cattle trailer up Pike's Peak with a Ford Pinto. If you're stuck with Phillips drive fasteners and you need to apply a lot of torque you need to lubricate the threads and DEFINITELY not use an impact driver.
I've pretty well given up on phillips head, EXCEPT when I want to put a plastic "button" on the head to hide it. Do they make those buttons for the "star" heads? I used a bunch of the stainless steel Torx head screws (pricey, but) and they seem to be inclined to "wring off" the heads. Hecho en China, I guess.
Well, don't do that. Don't mix an impact driver with a drive shape that's emphatically NOT designed for impact loading. Phillips drive was originally invented for low torque screws being installed by power drivers without clutches - the driver camming out of the head was the torque limiting feature. You can force a Phillips drive to take a certain amount of torque but you're trying to drag a 15,000 lb cattle trailer up Pike's Peak with a Ford Pinto. If you're stuck with Phillips drive fasteners and you need to apply a lot of torque you need to lubricate the threads and DEFINITELY not use an impact driver.
I will definitely be buying TORX or square headed screws from now on as well as keeping a couple bars of soap in my tool bag.
Philips? My entire life revolves around the #2 Robertson. But I'm in Canada. #2 for everything but office and computer work stations and furniture, which go to #3. The Utube prof. "History that deserves to be remembered" has the story on Mr. Robertson and why that head type DIDN'T get into the USA market. Too bad really. I also cheat: I pre drill almost every hole with my two pack, one had the drill bit and the other has the Robertson. !! Easy peasy.
Philips? My entire life revolves around the #2 Robertson. But I'm in Canada. #2 for everything but office and computer work stations and furniture, which go to #3. The Utube prof. "History that deserves to be remembered" has the story on Mr. Robertson and why that head type DIDN'T get into the USA market. Too bad really. I also cheat: I pre drill almost every hole with my two pack, one had the drill bit and the other has the Robertson. !! Easy peasy.
The only time I pre drill holes is when Im building something with hardwood or with pine planks, as driving screws can sometimes result in splitting the wood, no need to drill pilot holes in treated 2X lumber though.
Thats very interesting about the Robertson head, Ive often wondered why they still make the basic flat head or single slotted screw head...(does anyone actually prefer to use flat head screws today? LOL), even when its something decorative, I would use anything but a slotted head screw.
”Flat head” refers to the shape of the screw head, not the drive. Flat head screws exist in slotted, Phillips, square, hex socket, Torx socket, clutch, and probably some other drive types.
The standard flat blade screwdriver drives ”Slotted” screws.
The only time I pre drill holes is when Im building something with hardwood or with pine planks, as driving screws can sometimes result in splitting the wood, no need to drill pilot holes in treated 2X lumber though.
Thats very interesting about the Robertson head, Ive often wondered why they still make the basic flat head or single slotted screw head...(does anyone actually prefer to use flat head screws today? LOL), even when its something decorative, I would use anything but a slotted head screw.
Slot head screws are:
cheap
can be removed with screwdriver, knife, coin, or fingernail
”Flat head” refers to the shape of the screw head, not the drive. Flat head screws exist in slotted, Phillips, square, hex socket, Torx socket, clutch, and probably some other drive types.
The standard flat blade screwdriver drives ”Slotted” screws.
Thank you. I was thinking the same thing but I didn’t wanna be anal about it LOL. I always use the term “slotted”. Honestly I can’t think of the last time I bought any slotted screws. It seems they mostly come WITH things… And then you need a slotted screwdriver for them. But I never buy them specifically for anything.
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