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To go over our induction range. The wall it is against is all marble backsplash (no upper cabinets).
I made a stupid mistake and purchased a ducted unit when what was there before hand was ductless. Expensive lesson learned the hard way.
The problem seems to be that this unit is rated 900CFM. Apparently this can cause negative air flow in the house (not supposed to be above 400CFM) unless other measures are taken at an estimate of $5000. That is not in our budget.
—I cannot return the range hood or I would do that.
—the range hood is not convertible to ductless
—ductless range hoods mostly seem to be stainless steel. I don’t have stainless steel in my kitchen. So even if I were going to purchase a new hood, I can’t find one that goes with my kitchen. I bought this primarily for looks.
—is it possible to wire the range hood so that the medium and/or high settings don’t work, so that it stays operational at 400 CFM?
—any suggestions or ideas? Our house was built in 1977 and we have a gas furnace.
My contractor won’t touch this and told me that I never should have purchased something for a commercial kitchen.
I do have an HVAC guy coming to take a look and give me a quote, but was wondering if anyone could help me understand what I’m dealing with.
I did a quick Google search for ductless white range hood and got a bunch of results. You're going to have to cut your losses on the one youo bought and just buy another. You can probably sell it on a neighborhood Facebook page, Nextdoor, or the like, but you won't get nearly as much as you paid for it. Still better than the $5000 alternative.
Oh piddle. I can think of half a dozen fixes off the top of my head. All will be dependent on how strict an inspector is.
1. Replace the fan and motor
2. Build a 2" thick open spacer behind the unit and duct to it, allowing the air to recirculate into the room.
3. Build a fireproof chase to an area where a proper ducting can occur.
4. Duct downward, through the floor.
5. Disable the higher speeds by removing the wires from a three way switch
6. Disable the higher speeds by tweaking the wires leading to the fan motor
7. Disable the high airflow with a choke collar in the vent intake (not great, as the motor may overheat)
8. Keep the shell and insert a cheaper smaller vent system under it.
9. Install a makeup air vent in the kitchen with a heat exchanger module.
10. Install a makeup air vent in the furnace room.
Oh piddle. I can think of half a dozen fixes off the top of my head. All will be dependent on how strict an inspector is.
1. Replace the fan and motor
2. Build a 2" thick open spacer behind the unit and duct to it, allowing the air to recirculate into the room.
3. Build a fireproof chase to an area where a proper ducting can occur.
4. Duct downward, through the floor.
5. Disable the higher speeds by removing the wires from a three way switch
6. Disable the higher speeds by tweaking the wires leading to the fan motor
7. Disable the high airflow with a choke collar in the vent intake (not great, as the motor may overheat)
8. Keep the shell and insert a cheaper smaller vent system under it.
9. Install a makeup air vent in the kitchen with a heat exchanger module.
10. Install a makeup air vent in the furnace room.
None of those are simple. Some not even possible (installing a different unit in the shell??? LOL. ) Simple maybe to you. I can tell you, my 400CFM hood was fried in December by a power surge, and we bought a new circuit board (which we thought would fix it) and the hell we went through trying to get that damn board installed in the hood....and of course it did NOT fix it and I had to replace the entire unit) that was enough to know that there is no way in hell I would ever try to mess with the inner workings of a range hood. No way. No how. And to hire someone to come in to try and fix it (and now knowing that unless you are someone that works with range hoods regularly you are not going to know what the hell you are doing), well, forget it.
I would sell the range hood (yes will be a loss). No way would I have a 900CFM (holy crap ) in my house unless I had the proper air replacement. Also, PUT IN A VENT for a new hood. A range hood is nothing more than an over priced light unless it is vented.
None of those are simple. Some not even possible (installing a different unit in the shell??? LOL. ) Simple maybe to you. I can tell you, my 400CFM hood was fried in December by a power surge, and we bought a new circuit board (which we thought would fix it) and the hell we went through trying to get that damn board installed in the hood....and of course it did NOT fix it and I had to replace the entire unit) that was enough to know that there is no way in hell I would ever try to mess with the inner workings of a range hood. No way. No how. And to hire someone to come in to try and fix it (and now knowing that unless you are someone that works with range hoods regularly you are not going to know what the hell you are doing), well, forget it.
I would sell the range hood (yes will be a loss). No way would I have a 900CFM (holy crap ) in my house unless I had the proper air replacement. Also, PUT IN A VENT for a new hood. A range hood is nothing more than an over priced light unless it is vented.
Yes, simple to me. My point was that the idea of toss and start over vs. a $5K fix was an exercise in extremism. When I bought a new microwave, I had to rework the ductwork and damper so that the exhaust fan in it would work. That also included fixing some of the sheet metal within the microwave. To me, no big deal. For someone else, it might have meant a $200+ visit from an installer or handiman.
You also gave no pertinent information that would give anyone a narrowed approach to a solution.
What do you want to know?
~~~~~
Thank you to those with helpful suggestions. I am working on trying to return the hood. An HVAC tech came out today and told me specifically what kind of hood I need to buy and what it will cost to install.
I rushed the buying process; lesson learned.
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