Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
To avoid damage to the siding due to the rain water from steep roof, do I need to make sure kickout divertor (kick flashing) is in place as shown in the following video
There’s really no way to determine if there’s ice & water shield in place without removing roof shingles unless you can see the material if they let it run up the wall when it was installed.
How old are the roof shingles? If they are near the end of their life, it would be best to replace them prior to installing the siding.
Also, as indicated in the video, it would be added protection to install a counter flashing along the roof line over the step flashing and under the “J Trim” (and siding) that terminates the cut ends of the siding adjacent and against to the roof shingles.
I also believe it’s best to keep the “J Trim” spaced slightly above the shingles to allow water & or debris to quickly escape and not be trapped. You can discuss this detail with your contractor prior to commencement of the work.
If you just had the roof done- you should know what's there.
And, since you didn't specify what kind of siding it would be hard to say what little idiosyncrasies there may be. Kickout flashing seems to be a lost art with most roofing companies- so if you don't say something to the crew about kickouts where needed you probably won't get them.
If you just had the roof done- you should know what's there.
And, since you didn't specify what kind of siding it would be hard to say what little idiosyncrasies there may be. Kickout flashing seems to be a lost art with most roofing companies- so if you don't say something to the crew about kickouts where needed you probably won't get them.
If the roof runs diagonally along the wall- the step flashing goes behind the housewrap. The siding should be cut to stand off the roof by at least 1-1/2"; Hardie requires 2". I personally don't like the look of a 2" reveal- but step flashing that's the same color/painted as the siding does help. The first course should have a starter strip attached to it's bottom edge. These and other items of note are below-
Be sure to have the (butt ends) if vertical or cut ends of the Hardi Plank that are adjacent to the roof sealed as Ive been aware of issues with them wicking up water and or moisture. A decent contractor should be well aware of this possible issue.
Be sure to have the (butt ends) if vertical or cut ends of the Hardi Plank that are adjacent to the roof sealed as Ive been aware of issues with them wicking up water and or moisture. A decent contractor should be well aware of this possible issue.
Not really an issue if you go with the 2” clearance- as specified by Hardie.
Hardie did a lot of things the right way because they learned all the mistakes from the LP disaster and CL suit. They will adamantly defend their warranty if it is not isstalled by a “qualified installer” that has gone through their training.
Not really an issue if you go with the 2” clearance- as specified by Hardie.
Hardie did a lot of things the right way because they learned all the mistakes from the LP disaster and CL suit. They will adamantly defend their warranty if it is not isstalled by a “qualified installer” that has gone through their training.
They still call for sealing of all cut ends in their installation instructions.
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.