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That does look like a mess, but it's likely that the '2nd hole' / left is supposed to be a 'fresh air' duct - required if this is a gas waterheater. Looks like someone just hacked a hole in the sheetrock, twice, to try to 'get thru' - still should have a metal duct thru it, and the proper collars for both the fresh-air duct and the WH flue...
That does look like a mess, but it's likely that the '2nd hole' / left is supposed to be a 'fresh air' duct - required if this is a gas water heater. Looks like someone just hacked a hole in the sheetrock, twice, to try to 'get thru' - still should have a metal duct thru it, and the proper collars for both the fresh-air duct and the WH flue...
I'll have to get some plywood and create a way to get over to the water heater area through the attic and see what is there as far as a fresh air duct. If there is anything missing or not correct the previous home inspector missed it even with a 28 page report. It is a gas water heater.
They may have used a hole saw part of the way since the cut is nice and clean on the top and just broke it off around the left side and bottom.
That does look like a mess, but it's likely that the '2nd hole' / left is supposed to be a 'fresh air' duct - required if this is a gas waterheater. Looks like someone just hacked a hole in the sheetrock, twice, to try to 'get thru' - still should have a metal duct thru it, and the proper collars for both the fresh-air duct and the WH flue...
Getting “fresh air” from a hole in the ceiling??? Think convection- then tell me if it’s for “fresh air”.
The OP stated- “opened the curtain”. That sounds like both, plenty of air and a fire hazard (due to a gas-fired water heater).
The hole just needs to be closed, and the flue pipe needs the correct clearance from combustibles and a collar for sealing the open area.
Careful with that popcorn ceiling. Depending on it's age it could have asbestos. The popcorn ceilings that were in my 1971 house contained 10% asbestos. If you are going to cut into it, wet it down first so you don't make dust.
Careful with that popcorn ceiling. Depending on it's age it could have asbestos. The popcorn ceilings that were in my 1971 house contained 10% asbestos. If you are going to cut into it, wet it down first so you don't make dust.
It's just a quick cut and repair- not a 20yr job with hours upon hours of exposure!!! No need for more hyperbole- there's enough here at C-D already!
We got the needed collar and all 8 in the box were warped so we had to just pick one. We can drill holes and use drywall screws to adhere it to the ceiling unless anyone has other ideas.
We got the needed collar and all 8 in the box were warped so we had to just pick one. We can drill holes and use drywall screws to adhere it to the ceiling unless anyone has other ideas.
Let’s start with the pipe itself- is it b-vent pipe (double wall)? If not, it should be. Anyway, the collar is usually attached to the pipe itself or the framing. I’ve never seen one attached with drywall screws through the face- because it isn’t a very secure way. What happens if the drywall gets wet? You can screw through the outer wall of b-vent pipe, just sheet metal screws.
Let’s start with the pipe itself- is it b-vent pipe (double wall)? If not, it should be. Anyway, the collar is usually attached to the pipe itself or the framing. I’ve never seen one attached with drywall screws through the face- because it isn’t a very secure way. What happens if the drywall gets wet? You can screw through the outer wall of b-vent pipe, just sheet metal screws.
This is the collar we got for our Type B vent pipe. The photo shows the tentative plan.
The Type B collar was simple enough. The vent fittings (rotational 90's and 45's) leaving the water heater had a spot about 1/3 of the way up and too wide by a hair to install the collar from the bottom. I had to cut the collar and that cut is out of view.
Part 2 is next I guess with plywood to access the area from the attic or an idea I have to fix it from the bottom.
Also found part 3 and it it's ugly as well.
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