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Ok, I’ll start all over and try to make my statements a bit clearer and organized, start of season thermostat calls for heat, voltage reaches gas valve, no wires shorting or loose anywhere, burner does not ignite, I hit lil red reset button on bottom of gas valve, poof burner ignites then fan runs all works fine, we have a normal cycle.
Here’s were it starts getting confusing, after that first cycle it’s anybodys guess whether it’s going to kick on or not next time thermostat calls for heat, I’ve been babying it this way for 2 yrs now, if the burner doesn’t kick in after thermostat clicks then it’s red button time again buttt after a few times (cycles) of red button hits then it will start short cycling( burner fires, fan runs ) but a few min kick off then fire back up, run few min shut down, etc) , when it starts that I figure the limit switch is kicking it out so I pull one bottom cover off for more airflow around chamber, leave it off and then it seems to run fine (burner & fan).
This is an old est 25 yrs up flow forced air big residential Williamson unit, unit is clean and good airflow past A coil into ducts.
My guess limit switch has burnt points or sticking but I ain’t no furnace guy either
Ok, I’ll start all over and try to make my statements a bit clearer and organized, start of season thermostat calls for heat, voltage reaches gas valve, no wires shorting or loose anywhere, burner does not ignite, I hit lil red reset button on bottom of gas valve, poof burner ignites then fan runs all works fine, we have a normal cycle.
Here’s were it starts getting confusing, after that first cycle it’s anybodys guess whether it’s going to kick on or not next time thermostat calls for heat, I’ve been babying it this way for 2 yrs now, if the burner doesn’t kick in after thermostat clicks then it’s red button time again buttt after a few times (cycles) of red button hits then it will start short cycling( burner fires, fan runs ) but a few min kick off then fire back up, run few min shut down, etc) , when it starts that I figure the limit switch is kicking it out so I pull one bottom cover off for more airflow around chamber, leave it off and then it seems to run fine (burner & fan).
This is an old est 25 yrs up flow forced air big residential Williamson unit, unit is clean and good airflow past A coil into ducts.
My guess limit switch has burnt points or sticking but I ain’t no furnace guy either
What's the limit attached to exactly....is there a possiblity for pictures....random things usually indicate a bad part but if it's a safety item we don't want to bypass it just to get it to work without verifying what exactly it's there for.
My coil is leaking coolant. Do I have any other options than replacing it?
20yrsinBranson
Ummm there is a product called leak seal that can be used to help seal micro leaks. *Superseal*
Warning though do not use this unless the replacement of the entire system is an option.....ie.....20 year old system with numerous calls for leaks in different spots.
The problem most of the time though is how it's put into the system. They have to be micro leaks. If it leaks out over a few months the leak is to big. Something like slightly lose charge from one season to the next is a more likely candidate. I would always just go for the repair on systems I wasn't planning on replacing.....anything over 10 years old should be looked at for replacement when things start going wrong IMO.
Can you explain whats going on with the leak? When it happened...how many times has it been filled up....where the leak is....ect?
Please tell me....do you disclose the possibility of insect infestation to your clients? This has cost me a lot of money on my three year old Trane (ant infestation which shorted out contactors) and is not something that I nor any of my friends/aquaintences has ever heard of previously. My unit was inspected by two preventative maintenence techs and two repair techs with nobody telling me about this possibilty or existance of ants until I finally started hollering about the frequency of the needed repairs. (3 times in less than a month) what are your thoughts?
I know it's causes a lot of money and grief and unfortunately it's a unexplained phenomena but it does happen....
When someone figures out why the warning will be given out...
The case is very rare...but does happen.
All it takes is one insect in the path of the contactor and it could burn up the compressor, the contactor, the transformer...ect...all of the above or only one at a time.....with the most likely one being the contactor.
I'm going to give you the same answers as in the other forum where you asked. You got banned because you didn't wish to believe the numerous people telling you it was possible.....then you started to lose it on us because we were giving you honest answers.
Originally Posted by joee
Ok, I’ll start all over and try to make my statements a bit clearer and organized, start of season thermostat calls for heat, voltage reaches gas valve, no wires shorting or loose anywhere, burner does not ignite, I hit lil red reset button on bottom of gas valve, poof burner ignites then fan runs all works fine, we have a normal cycle.
Here’s were it starts getting confusing, after that first cycle it’s anybodys guess whether it’s going to kick on or not next time thermostat calls for heat, I’ve been babying it this way for 2 yrs now, if the burner doesn’t kick in after thermostat clicks then it’s red button time again buttt after a few times (cycles) of red button hits then it will start short cycling( burner fires, fan runs ) but a few min kick off then fire back up, run few min shut down, etc) , when it starts that I figure the limit switch is kicking it out so I pull one bottom cover off for more airflow around chamber, leave it off and then it seems to run fine (burner & fan).
This is an old est 25 yrs up flow forced air big residential Williamson unit, unit is clean and good airflow past A coil into ducts.
My guess limit switch has burnt points or sticking but I ain’t no furnace guy either
What's the limit attached to exactly....is there a possiblity for pictures....random things usually indicate a bad part but if it's a safety item we don't want to bypass it just to get it to work without verifying what exactly it's there for.
In a nutshell it's your fan/limit switch, screws to side of your plenum/fire box, one side controls fan tells it when to kick on when enough heat is built up, off when heat dissapates, other side limits the amount of heat that build up in chamber, if too much heat builds then it shuts down your gas valve.
Haven't gotten around to checking voltage levels on limit yet but about only thing i can really come up with since when cover comes off allowing more air circulation it runs fine, flue is good no blockedges there.
I have a 1630sq ft house with a 2-zone system. 1-zone is a bonus room upstairs; the only upstairs room...it has a 14X20 return and 2 vents. Downstairs has 2 14x20 returns on a 2-ton heat pump. I currently run the 2-zones as 1. I have pleated returns; almost the best you can buy...am I wasting money? In the summer our system cools to about 75 degrees and can't keep up when it is near 100 outside. Upstairs is unlivable this way but if I let that zone run independently it takes away from downstairs cooling (it is usually unoccupied anyway). The same can be said for heating too but I find the cold easier to compensate for.
Does that make sense? I hope so; and thanks for your help!
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