
08-06-2008, 11:38 AM
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Location: U.S.
3,373 posts, read 5,934,974 times
Reputation: 3228
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Finishing up yet another room in our house. The floors are the last to be done. they are in good shape, just slighty worn in a few areas. I plan to lightly sand, clean and apply some poly. Is there a good brand of oil based poly someone can recommend that I can buy at a typical home improvement store? I did this same process in another room and the floors look good, but I used minwax poly and wasn't overly thrilled with the results. Also, any tips on cleaning the lambswool applicator? I did the mineral spirits rinse the first time i did this and I still ended up with a lot of fibers in the floor. Should I try something else? Thanks!
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08-06-2008, 05:34 PM
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8,410 posts, read 38,242,685 times
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I used a good 25 dollar brush. No fibers.
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08-06-2008, 06:59 PM
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11,518 posts, read 50,674,385 times
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I don't know of any poly finish available at the big box home stores that I'd use on a wood floor. In my experience, none of them are of good quality.
Instead, head to a major paint store, such as S-W or Benjamin Moore (for example), or a flooring company supplier that retails a product line such as Glitsa.
What you want is a two part catalyzed urethane system product. These are much more durable, have more build, and look better because they're professional quality products. No harder to install than the cheap stuff, and they'll do the job for you.
Personally, I prefer disposable foam applicator pads instead of the lamb's wool applicators. And there's no fiber to shed out, no solvents to clean up with, etc.
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08-06-2008, 07:35 PM
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Location: U.S.
3,373 posts, read 5,934,974 times
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Thanks for the responses. My concern with using a brush is that I won't be fast enough and I will get some overlap marks (the room is about 12x17). If i use an applicator - do i have to thin out the poly at all or would it go on the same? So you think a BM brand would be okay? they sell minwax too so I know to avoid that. I had read somewhere that varathane was suppose to be good. Thoughts? Thanks again.
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08-06-2008, 07:54 PM
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8,410 posts, read 38,242,685 times
Reputation: 6358
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I did a room that size and no lines. It was high gloss amber.
I just ran the brush the length of the boards. I think it only took like 30 minutes or so...
With a good brush you have much greater control than with cheaper brushes.
I think my brush was 4'' wide.
I wish I could remember the brand I used so I could tell you..Its driving me nuts!
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08-06-2008, 07:57 PM
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Location: Pittsburgh--Home of the 6 time Super Bowl Champions!
11,310 posts, read 12,009,421 times
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My brother is a contractor. He told me the best stuff on the market is called Fabulon! I used it when he installed my hickory hardwood floors in my dining room. My brother wouldn't let me use anything else. It is GREAT stuff. He made me put on 3 layers, sanding between each layer! My floors look great 4 years later!
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08-06-2008, 09:26 PM
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57 posts, read 392,287 times
Reputation: 35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Texanwannabe
My brother is a contractor. He told me the best stuff on the market is called Fabulon! I used it when he installed my hickory hardwood floors in my dining room. My brother wouldn't let me use anything else. It is GREAT stuff. He made me put on 3 layers, sanding between each layer! My floors look great 4 years later!
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Don't know much about refinishing hardwood floors... why do you have to sand between each layer? What's the drawback to just applying over the first coat without sanding? thanks!
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08-07-2008, 12:36 AM
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Location: Mishawaka, IN
855 posts, read 2,328,490 times
Reputation: 701
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pacman777
Don't know much about refinishing hardwood floors... why do you have to sand between each layer? What's the drawback to just applying over the first coat without sanding? thanks!
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Sanding helps additional coats adhere by "roughing up" the surface as well as removing any minor imperfections in the first coat. On high traffic areas multiple coats are desirable because finishes will wear over time.
If you could see a cross section of an applied finish at a microscopic level, it would have tiny pits and ridges in it. While they're not visible to the naked eye, they do affect the appearance of the finish overall. Sanding removes these to a degree and the next coat helps fill it in to make these even smaller. The more coats, the more uniform and smooth a finish you will have in the end. It's also generally recommended to go to a higher grit sandpaper after each coat.
For anyone wanting to try this, also wipe down the sanded areas with a damp cloth to remove any dust, otherwise it will become embedded in the finish.
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08-07-2008, 07:58 AM
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Location: U.S.
3,373 posts, read 5,934,974 times
Reputation: 3228
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Thank again everyone. Maybe I will have the applicator and a big brush on hand and see which works best. Looks like there is no concensus on a brand of poly so I guess I will have to see what brands are available in the local stores. I am hoping I can get away with one coat since I am not taking it down to the wood, but I guess I won't know until I get started. I'll be glad when its done and I can cross another room off my list! Thanks
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08-07-2008, 09:46 AM
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600 posts, read 3,358,950 times
Reputation: 908
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As a flooring professional, I have been very happy with the Bona product line.
Streamer1212
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