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Two years ago I had a R-panel metal roof put on a 1200 sq. foot rent house in Texas at a cost of $5,500 for labor and materials. The house had a corrugated metal roof which we took off and I saved and used to cover the roof and sides of a 1,000 sq.foot barn at my farm. That was a super deal!
I owned a roofing company for many years and then later after I had retired a large roofing company coaxed me out of retirement to sell roofing for them. Roofing is a strange trade to say the least. Unlike other trades like plumbing and electrical there are very few standards and NO building inspections required on reroofing jobs. In my opinion a building permit, standards and final inspections would save thousands of people from roofing nightmares that occur all the time.
There are many things to consider when doing a roof and some are more important than others. you have to make sure that the new roof is specd correctly for the building and ther local weather. I can't tell you how many times I have sold a roof to some poor person that had suffered through the same problems they always had with their roof even after they had redone the roof two or even three times. For example, they had ice dams and water backing up under the shingles after every snowfall. Regular shingles being installed on roofs with less than 4 in twelve pitches without proper underlayment, roofs that are extreme challenges to or impossible to ventilate properly. Step flashings, wall flashings, chimney flashings, valleys and other fixtures not done properly. Eave details are not properly done on 90% of all roof jobs and so the leading edge of the roof deck gets wet rigth off the bat. I notice a lot of roofs going on today weave the valley insteasd of putting in steel valley flashings, Bad idea for sure. You are installing a 30 or 40 year roof and it will be kaput in as little as 10 years becase the valley is worn out. Valleys take as much as a hundred times the amount of water running over them as the rest of the roof and there is a reason for putting metal in there.
My advice for anyone getting a roof that is not an expert on roofing is this. Get an expert to write a spec for your roof. Make sure the spec is completely detailed. Type of roofing to be used, type of underlayment to be used and how much of the roof is to be underlaid, type of fasteners to be used on the job and how many per shingle. ALL FLASHINGS AND EDGE DETAILS spelled out clearly as to what materials and method of installation. Details on ventilation, how many, how big and the placement of them. In the case of a job where the roofing is to be removed there should be details on what sheathing materials will be used if it is found that some needs to be replaced. The cost per sq. ft. of replacing said sheathing. There always needs to be something said about the protection of the property. Roofers are horrible at wrecking eave troughs, facia boards and other things. Make it clear that if any landscape, plants, lawn or anything else is damaged will be fixed at the roofers cost. The property will be dragged with a nail magnet after the job is complete so you don't have an unpleasant surprise when your lawnmower shoots a nail through something or somebody.
I would also suggest that you ask to see a roofers insurance policy and call the company to confirm that , yes Mr. roofer is covered by us.
So, after you get your spec written I would call the local chamber of commerce and ask for 4 roofing companies they recommend.
Now they will all be quoting on the same thing and so therefore those quotes actually mean something. You should discuss how long the job should take and when the job will be done. In my own experience over 90% of all residential roofing jobs would be completed in one day. If it's a huge job then of course it will take longer. If it is going to take longer than a day then it should be discussed how the job will be secured at the end of each working day and the assurance that it will be left watertight at the end of each day, I also demanded of my men a complete cleanup at the end of each day.
Warranties need to be discussed. What is covered and what is not. Is labour covered if something goes wrong with the materials? Is the warranty pro rated or not? ASK TO SEE A SAMPLE OF THE WARRANTY PAPERWORK AND READ IT.
Everything that I have said here I went over with every single prospect during my sales call. My competition could never figure out how I sold 90% of my sales calls at a 25% higher cost than they were quoting.
When we did some types of commercial work we had to put up a bond to insure the job was done perfectly. When everything was done as per the contract we had to wait an average of 45 days before we got paid.If you are a real contractor and are confident of your ability to deliver the goods, then those conditions are like water off a ducks back. Even in residential work I often gave customers that had been burned by contractors in the past 30 day terms.
When you are getting work done on your home, DONT END UP AS A VICTIM!!!!!!!!!!!
The roof has a slop of about 7/12 (not real steep but not comfortable to work on), no skylights, a few penetrations, several valleys and hips (I call it moderately cut-up), good accessibility with moderate landscaping to be protected. When they get ready to replace it, with today’s roofing material and labor prices (figure February 2011), and using 30 year dimensional shingles, their roof is going to cost around $9,000.
Just info for others: I had my 100+ yr old home re-roofed last year in Mo. Its 2500 sf. and very "pitchy". Lots of dips & peaks, plus it already had THREE layers! ( not by me, I bought it last year ) 1st, we had a heck of a time even getting someone out to give estimates. So our guys stripped off the old & did clean up, for a total cost of $8,000. I really felt that was super high, until reading this thread. Those $40,000 ones would kill me. Great info on this thread, thanks all for posting.
If you have a real slate roof (this house was built in the 1870's). Trust me, this one hurts a lot more... a 6-figure expense (well it was a really big roof)... well, so much for keeping a nest egg.
The good news is that they will last 100 years.... but by then I don't think I'll care by then
I have a house that I will like to flip and I want to install a green metal roof the house already have two layers of 3 tap shingles. The dimensions are 27*102thats one side and the other side is also 27*102 aprox 55 sq of roof
The price will vary dramatically with the type of materials, your area, who does the work, permit fees, etc. Tile is very very expensive and could easily cost $20,000. cheapo composite shingles may be done for $3000-$4000 in some areas. Decent shingles that last more than a few years cost more.
I think that a safe range for you based on the informationt hat you provided is $ 3,000 - $30,000 give or take 25%
i am purchasing a house that was built in 1918 an old school house actually it was built with a metal roof i was just wondering if you can put a new roof on over it or would it half to be ripped off or underlayment put on over it. or if there is a way to repair it as it has a few small drips here and there
Roofs are a tricky thing to get a reasonable and reliable quote on. Many roofing contractors will come up with a different number of squares required for the job and that alters the price considerably. In addition, the pitch of the roof is also material. Higher pitched roofs are more expensive to tear off and replace.
A neighbor recently had her roof replaced and the roofing contractor charged her over $20K. I had mine replaced a few years ago (42 squares) and that cost about $12K. Both homes are similar in size.
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New Roof Going To Cost?
So our guys stripped off the old & did clean up, for a total cost of $8,000. I really felt that was super high, until reading this thread. Those $40,000 ones would kill me. 
Great info on this thread, thanks all for posting.
