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I'm thinking of buying a bank owned duplex,built on 1924 has some termite problems and needs cosmetic repairs, on the termite report it says: faulty grade level noted at the foundation. And recommends " Raise the level of the foundation by installing concrete blocks to replace mud sills". Can anybody tell me what does that mean in plain english, and how much would it cost me? Is it worth it?
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Originally Posted by mulan
I'm thinking of buying a bank owned duplex,built on 1924 has some termite problems and needs cosmetic repairs, on the termite report it says: faulty grade level noted at the foundation. And recommends " Raise the level of the foundation by installing concrete blocks to replace mud sills". Can anybody tell me what does that mean in plain english, and how much would it cost me? Is it worth it?
I'm not a foundation expert, but that probably means "at least $10,000."
Mud sills are the beams around the outside of the foundation. Depending if you need to replace them or raise them with cinder blocks under the exsisting beams will determine the cost. Raising them with cinder blocks will prevent the termites from having direct access to wood from the ground.
Termites go into the ground at night for water and return during the day. Putting cinder blocks will p0revent the termites from finding a wood trail.
Treat the termites there after the foundation problems so that the foundation people do not get exposed to the poison. Also, treating after the work will assure that the chemicals are in the ground around the foundation after the dirt is disturbed, not before.
Ask the inspector you need more details. I did several of these jobs.
It sounds like you have to jack the home up and install a footing around the perimeter if there isn't one there and put a predetermined block CMU wall up. The block wall should be at least 1 course above grade. I'm just guessing since I have no blueprint or more specific details.
Jacking the home up cost thousands since it requires a hydraulic lifting system. It has to be jacked high enough and supported with timbers for the Mason. Then an excavator has to come in and "try his best to dig a footing around the perimiter. This can be done by hand if frost isn't an issue there. Then a Mason pours the footer around perimeter and installs the appropriate courses for the house to sit at.
The block wall has to parged (plastered) and waterproofed to grade height.
If you live in a frost climate you will have to install the footing below a certain depth to code. It's 42" here in upstate NY.
If you dont get this house for an extreme discount 20-50 thousand and you don't know much about construction I would bail out before you get yourself in a real financial mess there.
Now unless the inspector somehow let's you install the block on the ground without a footer <-LOL - not recommended or there is an existing footer then you will still have to jack that home up. You will also need several building permits and interval inspections with the job.
Also I forgot -when you jack up the home there will be many mechanical and plumbing issues to deal. You will possibly have to disconnect sewers,storm sewers, Electric lines and gas lines since there is a stretching of the home upwards 4 feet and higher. Also the framing sill plate and any siding that tears off when lifting it will need replacement. Did I mention securing the foundation to the block wall with the appropriate bolts and straps> More $$$
Get me specific details and I will get a more clearer answer.
cr8086 is correct about dealing with teh plumbing issues ;so get a good foundation compniy and don't go cheapr. Jacking up a house moves ebrythign that has setteld into palce slowly over time.Doing this wrong as caused alot of leaks that have caused alot of the mold problems who hear so much about in many homes.
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