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1. Take off the jumper wire.
2. Put a 2-prong back in. or
3. Put a 3 prong in and label it "no equipment ground". or
4. Put a GFCI outlet and label IT "no equipment ground". or
5. Run a ground wire from the outlet back to the panel and connect it to the proper bus bar.
Yep, I recognized that as a bootleg ground as well (read on alot of books on common wiring problems). Very unsafe which would make one think its grounded when its really not.
My house (built in the mid-60's) is also on the two-wire system. Recently my uncle and I replaced all of the wiring in the master bath and bedroom as I wanted a fully grounded system in my house, since alot of the tools and equipment (computers and other sensitive gear) I use require 3-prong outlets.
My county also have no inspection or permitting requirements but me, I will make sure my electrical job is done right the first time, and usually if I don't quite understand on how to do it I will ask for help.
A lot of houses will have the neutral terminus and the ground terminus twisted together and connected to the grounding rod at the same point. Is that proper ground?
Third...
How are you supposed to remedy that? Put it back on a 2 prong outlet? Install a GFI with the downstream outlets covered?
The neutral and ground are to be bonded at the main service disconnect.
2-wire 120v circuits are allowed to have either a 2-wire receptacle, or a GFCI labeled "no equipment ground".
I believe cosmic was the first to answer my question correctly.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by southgeorgia
The neutral and ground are to be bonded at the main service disconnect.
2-wire 120v circuits are allowed to have either a 2-wire receptacle, or a GFCI labeled "no equipment ground".
I believe cosmic was the first to answer my question correctly.
I didn't read the whole thread before I posted, unfortunately.
What contigency does bonding the neutral and ground address? To a layman it seems that this would make the integrity of the connection to the grounding rod exceptionally important to prevent ground loops (as opposed to separate connections to the "earth terminal").
Also, if the ground on a GFI receptacle is bootlegged as depicted in Spider's picture, will it still trip with a fault current?
I didn't read the whole thread before I posted, unfortunately.
What contigency does bonding the neutral and ground address? To a layman it seems that this would make the integrity of the connection to the grounding rod exceptionally important to prevent ground loops (as opposed to separate connections to the "earth terminal").
Also, if the ground on a GFI receptacle is bootlegged as depicted in Spider's picture, will it still trip with a fault current?
the grounding conductor has to be bonded to the grounded conductor to complete the return path. the electrode (ground rod) is a secondary return path to the transformer serving the load, which is connected to an electrode also.
there is no need for a bootleg ground @ a GFCI recep, but if you did, it should only work if connected to the load side neutral terminal. the GFCI would simply see it as a grounded (neutral) connection. it will still trip @ the 5mA threshold.
A jumper from a neutral to the ground screw on an outlet should NEVER be done.
we're not saying it should.
the question was, would a GFCI work properly if this was done to it?
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