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I need to connect a newer 4 prong plug to an existing 3 prong receptacle. I bought a 4 prong receptcale . How do I wire it for 3 prong connection, with out rewiring the trailer. This is a mobile home.
Thanks Wayne
I need to connect a newer 4 prong plug to an existing 3 prong receptacle. I bought a 4 prong receptcale . How do I wire it for 3 prong connection, with out rewiring the trailer. This is a mobile home.
Thanks Wayne
plug must be changed to three prong to match existing recep. not the other way around.
Location: Visitation between Wal-Mart & Home Depot
8,309 posts, read 38,766,834 times
Reputation: 7185
Quote:
Originally Posted by southgeorgia
plug must be changed to three prong to match existing recep. not the other way around.
When switching to a 3-prong pigtail with a 240/120 appliance: Are you permitted to run a jumper between the ground and neutral terminals where the pigtail connects to the appliance? (provided that there are terminals for both)
When switching to a 3-prong pigtail with a 240/120 appliance: Are you permitted to run a jumper between the ground and neutral terminals where the pigtail connects to the appliance? (provided that there are terminals for both)
Location: Visitation between Wal-Mart & Home Depot
8,309 posts, read 38,766,834 times
Reputation: 7185
Quote:
Originally Posted by Barking Spider
When switching to a 3-prong pigtail with a 240/120 appliance: Are you permitted to run a jumper between the ground and neutral terminals where the pigtail connects to the appliance? (provided that there are terminals for both)
NO.
That makes sense when I think about it because anyone touching the stove would be "competing" with the grounded conductor, just like running a jumper between ground and neutral on a 120 volt circuit. On a 240 only appliance, can the ground terminal and the neutral terminal share a conductor?
When switching to a 3-prong pigtail with a 240/120 appliance: Are you permitted to run a jumper between the ground and neutral terminals where the pigtail connects to the appliance? (provided that there are terminals for both)
actually, the answer is YES.
most modern appliances come this way from the factory until the proper cord is attached.
this is usually accomplished in one of two ways;
there is a copper tab under the neutral lug that goes behind the terminal block, and directly below to the grounding screw.
or, the green wire that is connected directly to the frame is attached under the neutral lug/screw.
when you install a 4-wire cord, you break the tab or remove the green wire from underneath the neutral lug and attach it to the green screw adjacent to the terminal block.
the manufacturer's and code making panels are fully aware that plenty of 3-wire appliance receps are still in existance.
Location: Visitation between Wal-Mart & Home Depot
8,309 posts, read 38,766,834 times
Reputation: 7185
Quote:
Originally Posted by southgeorgia
actually, the answer is YES.
most modern appliances come this way from the factory until the proper cord is attached.
this is usually accomplished in one of two ways;
there is a copper tab under the neutral lug that goes behind the terminal block, and directly below to the grounding screw.
or, the green wire that is connected directly to the frame is attached under the neutral lug/screw.
when you install a 4-wire cord, you break the tab or remove the green wire from underneath the neutral lug and attach it to the green screw adjacent to the terminal block.
the manufacturer's and code making panels are fully aware that plenty of 3-wire appliance receps are still in existance.
this is a code legal installation.
That pickles me noodle a bit. I think I get it with 240V, but how can that be safe if the neutral and the ground are the same on a 240/120? Couldn't you get a helluva shock by grabbing a pot filler sweated onto copper pipes that run all the way out to the meter if there were some problem with the neutral?
That pickles me noodle a bit. I think I get it with 240V, but how can that be safe if the neutral and the ground are the same on a 240/120? Couldn't you get a helluva shock by grabbing a pot filler sweated onto copper pipes that run all the way out to the meter if there were some problem with the neutral?
The heating elements are not connected to the neutral. It serves as the return path for the electronic clock and timer controls. Neutral current is minimal.
Older appliances built before the code mandated a separate neutral utilized the grounding wire for this, which is exactly what's happening on a 3 wire connection.
As for getting shocked, in theory this won't happen on a properly grounded system.
There are other devices that use the ground wire as a return path for the operation of small electronic circuits, but its being phased out in the 2011 NEC.
Its a calculated risk I'm sure on the manufacturers and CMP's part.
Location: Visitation between Wal-Mart & Home Depot
8,309 posts, read 38,766,834 times
Reputation: 7185
Quote:
Originally Posted by southgeorgia
The heating elements are not connected to the neutral. It serves as the return path for the electronic clock and timer controls. Neutral current is minimal.
Older appliances built before the code mandated a separate neutral utilized the grounding wire for this, which is exactly what's happening on a 3 wire connection.
As for getting shocked, in theory this won't happen on a properly grounded system.
There are other devices that use the ground wire as a return path for the operation of small electronic circuits, but its being phased out in the 2011 NEC.
Its a calculated risk I'm sure on the manufacturers and CMP's part.
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