Welcome to City-Data.com Forum!
U.S. CitiesCity-Data Forum Index
Go Back   City-Data Forum > General Forums > House
 [Register]
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
View detailed profile (Advanced) or search
site with Google Custom Search

Search Forums  (Advanced)
Reply Start New Thread
 
Old 07-05-2009, 06:34 AM
 
Location: I think my user name clarifies that.
8,292 posts, read 26,664,764 times
Reputation: 3925

Advertisements

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hero View Post
I'm having a similar problem. How much does it cost to get the freon changed? My A/C unit says Refrigerant type 22 design pressure 300 psi. I'm not sure if a trip to home depot and some elbow grease will fix this.
It's not likely that you can do this yourself.

Getting an AC service man out to recharge your system will likely run about $150. But that's not necessarily addressing the real problem. If you're low on freon, it's because it leaked. And the leak is going to have to be fixed.

I went through this on a rental house recently. It was an old old unit, and I eventually decided to just replace it.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

 
Old 07-05-2009, 03:53 PM
 
29,939 posts, read 39,450,111 times
Reputation: 4799
Does the liquid line (smaller copper line) sound like it's percolating near the air handler up in the attic or wherever it is? It's actually boiling but whatever. Also how many returns do you have and what size are they and what type of air filters are you using?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 07-05-2009, 03:56 PM
 
29,939 posts, read 39,450,111 times
Reputation: 4799
Quote:
Originally Posted by Barking Spider View Post

Feel the big pipe. It should be very cold and slightly wet.
Depends on the dew point and inside temperature. I agree with everything else as quick checks.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 07-05-2009, 03:57 PM
 
29,939 posts, read 39,450,111 times
Reputation: 4799
Quote:
Originally Posted by tamcim72 View Post
We had similiar problem last summer that a/c just couldn't keep up on the sunny 98 degree days. It would reach 80 even though had set on 74. Found out I only had 8 degree difference between old and new air. Soon as I got my preon/freon stuff charged it was back to normal. Right now we are having 98 degree days and it is sometimes 2 degrees above setting but we have no shade and it is working hard to stay at 74.
HVAC systems are setup for about 80% of the maximum heat days you get in your area. They aren't designed to keep up on the hottest of hot days. Well they should be designed like that...
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 07-05-2009, 04:00 PM
 
29,939 posts, read 39,450,111 times
Reputation: 4799
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hero View Post
I'm having a similar problem. I live in a condo and the coils in my central unit is nice and cold after a few minutes of running. It even has some condensation. The insulated pipe going towards the roof used to be nice and cold too but now it's just room temperature. I don't have access by the association to check the unit on the roof so haven't had a chance to see if the fan above is running properly yet.

How much does it cost to get the freon changed? My A/C unit says Refrigerant type 22 design pressure 300 psi. I'm not sure if a trip to home depot and some elbow grease will fix this. Will the a/c repair man need access to my roof top? I'd hate to hire him to come in only to have to pay him double because he couldn't access the roof.

Any advice would be much appreciated!
Those are maximum test head pressures. 150 psi on the low side or the suction side of the compressor. Most places I know charge $30/lb plus trip charge and labor. If you do need freon then you have a leak and you'll pay double if they do not fix it first before they recharge it.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 07-05-2009, 04:02 PM
 
29,939 posts, read 39,450,111 times
Reputation: 4799
Quote:
Originally Posted by Omaha Rocks View Post
I can't speak to the problem you've had with your home warranty company.


I'd guess that your AC problem is low freon, and that the AC really isn't working at all. The unit will run just fine, but it's not cooling.
The refrigerant is also the coolant for the compressor. No motors do well for long without the proper coolant levels. Eventually it'll die.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 07-06-2009, 08:02 AM
 
23,587 posts, read 70,358,767 times
Reputation: 49216
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigJon3475 View Post
HVAC systems are setup for about 80% of the maximum heat days you get in your area. They aren't designed to keep up on the hottest of hot days. Well they should be designed like that...
Sorta. Aside from the energy costs factor, the big issue is dehumidifying the air. A unit that has to run all the time on a hot day will do a better job of dehumidifying than one that goes on and off. When the day is a NORMAL hot day, the unit that is larger and runs less can leave you cold and dripping wet at the same time.

The better solution is to have two slightly smaller units. During normal times, only one is set to go on. During the times of excessive heat, the other unit kicks in as well. About halfway through the cooling season, you reset temps on both to equalize the wear.

Anyone who plans on holding summertime parties that might have to go inside should really consider such a setup. The heat and humidity load of a bunch of guests is enough to drive most properly sized AC units over the edge.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
 
Old 07-06-2009, 09:24 AM
 
29,939 posts, read 39,450,111 times
Reputation: 4799
Quote:
Originally Posted by harry chickpea View Post
Sorta. Aside from the energy costs factor, the big issue is dehumidifying the air. A unit that has to run all the time on a hot day will do a better job of dehumidifying than one that goes on and off. When the day is a NORMAL hot day, the unit that is larger and runs less can leave you cold and dripping wet at the same time.

The better solution is to have two slightly smaller units. During normal times, only one is set to go on. During the times of excessive heat, the other unit kicks in as well. About halfway through the cooling season, you reset temps on both to equalize the wear.

Anyone who plans on holding summertime parties that might have to go inside should really consider such a setup. The heat and humidity load of a bunch of guests is enough to drive most properly sized AC units over the edge.
That's what they make variable speed compressors for. They run all the time at part load until the thermostat realizes it can't keep up then kicks into high gear. Typically, but not all, the run @ around 80% of their maximum capacity. With breaking out the mfg data for every brand that has variable speed compressors that's a decent generalization.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.

Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.


Reply
Please update this thread with any new information or opinions. This open thread is still read by thousands of people, so we encourage all additional points of view.

Quick Reply
Message:


Over $104,000 in prizes was already given out to active posters on our forum and additional giveaways are planned!

Go Back   City-Data Forum > General Forums > House

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:13 AM.

© 2005-2024, Advameg, Inc. · Please obey Forum Rules · Terms of Use and Privacy Policy · Bug Bounty

City-Data.com - Contact Us - Archive 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37 - Top