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So I found the contactor and it seems to not be stuck. I am able to push it closed and it pops right back out. No black marks or anything else that looks ( to my very untrained eye) out of the ordinary.
Also on the fan speed, there is no difference between when the a/c unit is on or off. It is a GE single speed motor.
Thoughts on next steps:
replace contactor anyways?
Remove fan and have it tested?
Anything else to try before giving up and calling a pro?
OK, so the contactor pops in and out freely when the power is off. Remove all tools from the area and make sure there are no metal covers shorting out anything and re-apply the power with the cover off. The contactor will likely snap into the on position and not release.
If that happens, power it off again. That would mean the circuit energizing the contactor coil is remaining on. What would cause that can vary. My first guess would be the control (logic) board having a fried component. There can be capacitors that hold a charge even with the power off, and you are getting into the more technical stuff, so you may have to call a pro. Relate to the dispatcher exactly what you have tried so far, and give the model number. You might be able to avoid a second trip for the guy to go back and get the proper board or part.
You might be able to go a little farther on your own, but you are getting out of beginner territory and into some live voltage situations that shouldn't be guided over the net.
Fan spins (as viewed from above) counter clockwise while the a/c is on and spins clockwise when a/c is off.
Contactor seems to close when a/c is turned on and releases when a/c is off.
Looking through google searches, I found 1 other with the same problem, they replaced the capacitor with no change at all. He then called a repairman who said it was a bad fan motor. He replace then fan motor and that fixed the problem.
Sounds like it is probably a good idea to replace the fan motor?
Thanks for any help or advise.
Edit: here is the link I found for the similair problem:
If it is a 220 volt motor (extremely likely), then yeah, it could have something shorted in it to ground or center tap. If it is 110, it could be a whole different problem.
Fan Motor, Permanent Split Capacitor, Totally Enclosed Air-Over, 1/6-1/4 HP, Number of Speeds 1, Nameplate RPM 1075, NEMA/IEC Frame 42, Voltage 208-230, 60 Hz, Full Load Amps 1.0-1.2-2.0, Stud Mounting, Auto Thermal Protection, Insulation Class B, Service Factor 1.0, Ball Bearings, Ambient 60 C, CW/CCW Rotation, Length Less Shaft 4 1/2 In, Shaft Dia 1/2 In, Shaft Length 3 In, Body Dia 5 In, Stud Pattern 4.33, 4.42, 4.62 In BC, Capacitor Required 2MDV6
Does it look like it should work? Will I be able to use my same capacitor?
Last edited by cgar22; 07-13-2009 at 07:24 AM..
Reason: Improved formatting
my trane 1000 xe heat pump a/c ,fan at the attic is runing all the time ;; it dose'nt stop .. any suggestion??
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