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You just have to get the correct parts. Either as originally supplied or equilavent replacement part.
The heater elements will vary a lot, by type connection, (screwed, flanged, voltage, wattage rating, size, shape, etc).
Thermostats are more standard but again you have to ensure the replacement is compatible with that particular installation.
It helps to have the instruction book for the heater. Most of those spell out the replacement part numbers. DIY the replacements should be less than a new water heater.
I replaced the top element in my water heater about a year ago. It's not hard at all, provided you remember to turn off the water, turn off the electricity to the water heater, drain adequate water out of it, and wait long enough for it to cool down.
is it possible to replace the elements and thermostat in an electric water heater to avoid buying a new one?
If you are going to replace these items I would highly recommend replacing the sacrificial anode at the same time while the water heater is out of service. You can read about the SA at Sacrificial Anodes: What keeps water heaters from rusting out.
Some water heaters are in tight places and you might not be able to raise a new, one piece SA high enough to place it in the tank. I have seen a multi-part SA made for this situation but unfortunately I could not find a link to it. Possibly another poster would have a good link to one. The multi-part SA is one that folds over into several sections to allow you to insert it without pulling the whole tank out and into the open.
In addition, after you replace the elements (a note, I also replace the thermostats at the same time because they always seemed to go bad right after the element) re-fill the tank before turning the electric back on, made that mistake once, big nasty noise and redo the work.
I have to ask, are you on well or city water? My experience is that once I got city water that the elements last longer, when I was on a well I was on an 18-24 month replacement schedule.
I'd be surprised if both elements and one/both thermostats are all bad, just change the parts you need to change. Be aware that the elements may be stuck pretty bad, Kroil penetrating oil or a home-brew of 50-50 acetone and ATF (automotive auto trans fluid) would be your friend here, you want to put that stuff on the threaded joint well in advance of trying to take the element loose.
Have a plan B in case you can't get the element loose.
Depending on the age of the heater, you may be money ahead with a new, highly insulated one, and that from me, the "never throw it away, fix it again" guy...
I'd be surprised if both elements and one/both thermostats are all bad, just change the parts you need to change. Be aware that the elements may be stuck pretty bad, Kroil penetrating oil or a home-brew of 50-50 acetone and ATF (automotive auto trans fluid) would be your friend here, you want to put that stuff on the threaded joint well in advance of trying to take the element loose.
Have a plan B in case you can't get the element loose.
Depending on the age of the heater, you may be money ahead with a new, highly insulated one, and that from me, the "never throw it away, fix it again" guy...
M3 Mitch, I have a 5 year old water heater, and had a plumber replace the elements about 1 year ago. With no hot water today, I tried to DIY it. Watching the plumber last year, I turned off the water, unplugged the water heater, drained the system, and took off the access panel. Then I tried to remove the elements. I even went to the plumbing store and purchased the custom made socket for the 1 inch element nuts. After struggling for an hour, I actually bent the leverage stick. There is no way to access the far end of the nut to apply the kroil.
Any ideas?
Do I need to replace whole system. It seems a 5 year old closed system is not that old and should be fairly efficient.
I appreciate any help you could provide.
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Sure, no real problem.
