Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
Yes, it's included in the quote. I'm not sure what the R-value isn't. I wasn't home when heat dude was out there. Hubby was. And he forgot to tell him some things, like there is one area of the attic he can't run the ducts through because a bathroom is going there. Kind of important, ya know? Ugh!
We're in middle TN, about an hour and a half north of Chattanooga and 2 hours southeast of Nashville. Our temps run about 5 to 10 degrees cooler than Nashville. I guess Pikeville or Spencer would be the closest towns of any population that you could find info on, weather wise, to figure out what we should be putting in.
The R-value of the insulation to be installed should be included in the quote. If it is not, call the HVAC company and ask for it. You want the insulation to come high enough to well cover any ductwork in the attic.
I recently had blown cellulose done by a company to a R-38 value in my attic for 2000 sq. ft. and that came to approx. $1400.00. My area is quite rural as well.
If you are going to re-do plumping and electric in exterior walls you may want to have those insulated at a seperate time and after the work is completed.
This link may give you a starting point.
Energy Savers Tips: Insulation and Sealing Air Leaks (http://www1.eere.energy.gov/consumer/tips/insulation_sealing.html - broken link)
You want the insulation to come high enough to well cover any ductwork in the attic.
Duct work should never be covered by blown insulation in an attic. If you do, you're not getting an equal R value across the entire ceiling.
Flex duct has a value of about R-8. When loose fill is blown into the attic the installer is looking at a uniform thickness across the entire area- if there is duct work buried in there your not getting the full effect of the insulation's value, i.e., ceiling area with no duct= R-38 [for example]; and if there is a 6" duct buried inside an area= maybe R-30.
For informational purposes, duct work either flex or hard in an attic area should be suspended- not laying on ceiling joists.
For walls you do not have to tear out all the drywall to insulate. If you have wood shakes or clapboards outside then you are in luck. You can even do this yourself. There is a method called blown in insulation. It's a Lambs wool product. You drill a 2" hole outside at the top of every wall cavity....meaning between each stud. You have a big hopper which you pour in the insulation while another person stick the flange into the hole you drilled. You squeeze a trigger and the insulation blows into the wall cavitys and fills it.
Your immediate attention should be the windows first as that is where you are getting the most heat loss.
Actually, we're probably not talking drywall at all- probably plaster and lath. In that case (unless it's a total restore), don't remove any interior wall covering. You're better off removing the clapboards on the outside and insulating. Here's why-
Generally, homes of this age had clapboards nailed directly to the studs (no sheathing or moisture barrier) so adding blown-in f/glass or cellulose will only retain moisture and create rot. If they did have sheathing, it was probably 1X6, 1X8 with roofing felt that's brittle and falling apart. And drilling a hole at the top of a cavity doesn't do it- the air has to go somewhere. It generally takes two holes, one to spray into and one for the air to escape.
These two applications are probably the best on the market right now for post-construction wall cavity insulation fill-
Duct work should never be covered by blown insulation in an attic. If you do, you're not getting an equal R value across the entire ceiling.
Flex duct has a value of about R-8. When loose fill is blown into the attic the installer is looking at a uniform thickness across the entire area- if there is duct work buried in there your not getting the full effect of the insulation's value, i.e., ceiling area with no duct= R-38 [for example]; and if there is a 6" duct buried inside an area= maybe R-30.
For informational purposes, duct work either flex or hard in an attic area should be suspended- not laying on ceiling joists.
Well, what you have stated is directly apposed to what my HVAC company and each of the differend insulation companies that offered a bid came to tell me. My ductowork lays on an attic floor, above the ceiling joists, but not suspended. I know my value prior to having the insulation blown in, per an independent energy assessment, was R3. So, even if R30 now at the location of the ductwork it is still substantially better than prior installation.
It was also pointed out to me that the ductwork, (hard, insulated) would be protected by the insulation so that in the winter the air traveling through would be less likely to cool on its way across the attic to the vets, and similarly in the summer, the cool conditioned air would be less likely to be warmed in the attic space.
I was in a similar situation that the OP states to be in currently. So, take my experience for whatever it is worth.
Good luck with your project.
The house started as a small concrete block shoe box and has been added on over the years. Each addition has also been concrete block and then they did a crappy job of adding brick facing on the front and sides. To make it look worse they left the back unfinished concrete block, just painted it. Ugh. So with CBS can I still drill the holes and fill?
Actually, we're probably not talking drywall at all- probably plaster and lath. In that case (unless it's a total restore), don't remove any interior wall covering. You're better off removing the clapboards on the outside and insulating. Here's why-
Generally, homes of this age had clapboards nailed directly to the studs (no sheathing or moisture barrier) so adding blown-in f/glass or cellulose will only retain moisture and create rot. If they did have sheathing, it was probably 1X6, 1X8 with roofing felt that's brittle and falling apart. And drilling a hole at the top of a cavity doesn't do it- the air has to go somewhere. It generally takes two holes, one to spray into and one for the air to escape.
These two applications are probably the best on the market right now for post-construction wall cavity insulation fill-
The house started as a small concrete block shoe box and has been added on over the years. Each addition has also been concrete block and then they did a crappy job of adding brick facing on the front and sides. To make it look worse they left the back unfinished concrete block, just painted it. Ugh. So with CBS can I still drill the holes and fill?
And yes, windows are high on the priority list.
Well... On the bright side, this makes it easier to (for instance) insulate and install siding.
Maybe. Or you may not have to- may not be able too.
Depending on how the top of the wall was finished, you may be able to inject directly through the top. Sometimes the masons/builders didn't cap the top of the wall.
Others would cap.
Then there are other possibilities- the walls were filled with a grout mix. Or they were filled with dry sand.
Now knowing the scenario- if it were me I'd frame 2X walls on the inside, 24"oc and drywall. With my labor I could do it for less than the foam.
And the foam is your only choice with block walls.
Ok, the insulation guy is doing the attic and the new door we just put in off the dressing room in the master suite that goes out to the back deck. We didn't put up the drywall because we've got to have the WIC put in and then we would just do all the drywall in both rooms at once.
Well, since there was no drywall, the pittie foster puppy decided insulation was a blast to play with! Pulled out every last bit of it. Ugh. SO they'll replace that as well and we'll just have the two rooms drywalled as soon as he's done.
He did say that just the attic and replacing the windows would make a major difference though. We'll get those things done and see how much it helps.
Ok, the insulation guy is doing the attic and the new door we just put in off the dressing room in the master suite that goes out to the back deck. We didn't put up the drywall because we've got to have the WIC put in and then we would just do all the drywall in both rooms at once.
Well, since there was no drywall, the pittie foster puppy decided insulation was a blast to play with! Pulled out every last bit of it. Ugh. SO they'll replace that as well and we'll just have the two rooms drywalled as soon as he's done.
He did say that just the attic and replacing the windows would make a major difference though. We'll get those things done and see how much it helps.
If (as I suspect) you had no attic insulation and crappy windows, you are going to be absolutely dumbfounded by the difference. I'll guarantee it!
Please register to post and access all features of our very popular forum. It is free and quick. Over $68,000 in prizes has already been given out to active posters on our forum. Additional giveaways are planned.
Detailed information about all U.S. cities, counties, and zip codes on our site: City-data.com.
Please register to participate in our discussions with 2 million other members - it's free and quick! Some forums can only be seen by registered members. After you create your account, you'll be able to customize options and access all our 15,000 new posts/day with fewer ads.
