Chainsaw - optimal bar length

[thecoalman]

Originally Posted by Coldjensens

We are taking about exactly the same thing. What you are doing is sharpening the chain. You are using a file to make the teeth sharper than they were - that is what sharpening a chain is.

I do not like sitting outside doing it when I could be cutting. Apparently you are much faster at it than I am because it takes me quite a while. I can swap out the chain in 2-3 minutes while sharpening each tooth with a file takes fifteen minutes to half an hour, especially if you lose track of where you are. I usually have no more than an hour or two to cut up anything at any given time. Our chains seem to get dull and slow fairly quickly.

It shouldn't take that long, you are probably waiting to long to sharpen it. Frequent light sharpenings are better than waiting for it to dull especially letting it get really dull. when the chain is at sharpest note how big the chips are, when they start getting smaller sharpen it. 5 light swipes on each tooth should suffice. If you run it dull the cutting edge of the tooth is going to start to round over. When that happens you need to file back to that rounded edge which means removing a lot of metal.

Quick tip if you have a vice, you can clamp the bar in the vice. Lock the chain and sharpen, unlock the chain as needed to advance. As the other poster noted mark the tooth you started with, if you don't need to mark it because you easily see what tooth you started with you are probably waiting too long to sharpen it.

You really should not need to sharpen much, keep it out of the dirt. that takes the real sharp edge off of it instantly.

[M3 Mitch]

Originally Posted by Coldjensens

After some experimenting I learned an 18" blade is fine, but more important than blade or motor size is getting a non-homeowner chain. The homeowner chains have stupid anti-kickback safety teeth that pretty much prevent the saw from cutting anything. I was amazed when I first changed out. Suddenly it went through many logs like butter (depending on the type of wood). You have to go to a specialty store or lumberyard to get the better chains. You will not find them at Home Depot, Lowes Tractor Supply or the like.

This is a good point. Even a small saw will really "wake up" with a good "professional" type chain. Or go with a "narrow kerf" chain and bar set. Bailey's has these.