Chainsaw - optimal bar length (tank, stoves, gas, costs)

[EricBoyd]

I'm gonna need to buy a chainsaw soon. It'll get moderate use, since we'll be living on a 1-acre lot with century-old oak trees. I'm looking at Husqvarna chainsaws. There are varying bar lengths available, but I don't want to go overboard. What's the guideline for bar length? Is a 16" bar sufficient for cutting up a felled tree and any branches? Am I able to work from both sides of a tree trunk that could be upwards of 30" in diameter?

[Norsky1]

I have an 18 inch bar and would really like a 24 inch. The one I have is a Poulan hand me down so I am not going to gripe over a free chainsaw. If you get a 16 you will probably want a 24 so I suggest a 24.

[Omaha Rocks]

A 16" bar is kind of a standard non-commercial type. Go bigger than that, and you'll get into a whole different class (and size) of saw.

My chainsaw has a 16" bar. I've done a lot of sawing with it. In fact, last fall a friend & I took down a 40' tall Ash Tree - both of us having chainsaws with 16" bars. We were able to handle everything but the very base of the trunk.

[EricBoyd]

Yeah, I definitely want to keep with the non-commercial variety, mainly to keep my costs down and preferably under $300. Lowe's has a 16" Husky for about $270, and that's the one I'm eye-balling. But, if there's a reason I should go bigger, I'm certainly willing to entertain it.

[Omaha Rocks]

Originally Posted by EricBoyd

Yeah, I definitely want to keep with the non-commercial variety, mainly to keep my costs down and preferably under $300. Lowe's has a 16" Husky for about $270, and that's the one I'm eye-balling. But, if there's a reason I should go bigger, I'm certainly willing to entertain it.

Actually, mine's a Poulan. I got it on sale for about $130. It has worked very well for me. Many years ago I had a Stihl, because I had 2 wood-burning stoves in the house. The Stihl was (25 years ago) about $350. It worked well, but wasn't worth well over double what I paid for the Poulan. At least it wasn't worth it to me.

[Norsky1]

Originally Posted by Omaha Rocks

We were able to handle everything but the very base of the trunk.

This is why I want a bigger saw. I did the base of my biggest stump from my 11 tree cut down a few weeks ago on Monday and with an 18 blade, I had to circle around the stump to do it, a 24 would have sliced right through it!

[Bones]

I use a 18" Husky to cut ~4-5 chords every year. Nice saw and a nice length to work with. I have my saw chains made in town with a more aggressive cut, not off the shelf.....

Had a Poulan Pro 20" for 1 tank of gas and the oiler stopped working...took it back.....

Invest in the proper protective equipment also.....

[lifelongMOgal]

Originally Posted by EricBoyd

Yeah, I definitely want to keep with the non-commercial variety, mainly to keep my costs down and preferably under $300. Lowe's has a 16" Husky for about $270, and that's the one I'm eye-balling. But, if there's a reason I should go bigger, I'm certainly willing to entertain it.

Buy quality = buy once

In no particular order:
STIHL
Husky
Jonsered (older not newer)
Dolmar (my choice)
Olympyk

Being a girl I find it difficult to handle much more than a 16". If I could I would go for a longer bar length as it will significantly cut down your "hang-ups" and speed up your work.

[EricBoyd]

Originally Posted by lifelongMOgal

Buy quality = buy once

I completely agree with you. That's what led me to the Husky's.

[stillkit]

May I suggest a Stihl 210 C?

It has either a 14" or 16" bar (I forget which), but it's a plenty sufficient size for most homeowners needs. I've got one and have yet to find a job it won't do. For cutting down trees, it'll notch a tree twice width of the bar length and that's a pretty good sized tree. For fallen trees, it'll cut just about anything if you know how.

You can remove the bar and chain or tighten the chain without any tools as it's designed for that. Better yet, it has a Stihl easy start and that's worth it's weight in gold, especially if you're up in a tree when you start it.

The pull cord is attached to a spring device so, instead of jerking on it to start your saw, you just gently pull on it a few times until you feel the tension rise. What you're doing is "winding" the spring. One more sharp tug and the saw will start itself. It's a God-send! (WARNING! If you stop in mid-start and lay the saw down, don't be surprised if it tries to start anyhow! LOL)

They run about $350. If you still want a longer bar, some of the bigger Stihl's also have a C model easy start.