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Just got word that my inlaws want to spring for the cement to pour a small patio next weekend while they visit. So..... Any tips on how to do this? roughly a 10x10 area, give or take. What will it take? We have some friends who say they know how to do such things but i haven't talked to them yet.
My mom-in-law said something about putting little pieces of tile around the edges to decorate it a bit, has anyone ever seen this done? Ideas?
However, I don't think they know what all this project might require. What I've been reading online makes it sound....well maybe not "hard," but involved. 2-3 days? High costs? What can you all tell me about it? They and our friends who have some experience doing this make it sound easy, but from what Im reading it sounds like it will take a bit more than we might have to give on this particular weekend.
I don't know where you live, but you may need a permit from your municipality before you can proceed. A few years ago, we replaced a small deck with a large concrete patio. We had it done as a stamped, concrete design and tinted color. We love it. the extra charge for the stamping and color was pretty minimal and makes things really nice. you may want to look into it and just have your in-laws provide the funds and not try to do the job yourself in the time they are there.
Just got word that my inlaws want to spring for the cement to pour a small patio next weekend while they visit. So..... Any tips on how to do this? roughly a 10x10 area, give or take. What will it take? We have some friends who say they know how to do such things but i haven't talked to them yet.
My mom-in-law said something about putting little pieces of tile around the edges to decorate it a bit, has anyone ever seen this done? Ideas?
Thanks for the input!
If you have no idea how to do it and don't have the equipment then just a professional is the best advise I can give. You can google concrete aptio if you wan to look at what it involves tho.
hiring professionals isn't really in the budget, at least not at this time or for this project. We can borrow tools and have friends who have some knowledge of this. I guess I'm just asking about time and $$, it seems like we may have underestimated those. And those are bad things to underestimate when you have a shortage of them already
First of all ask your local township what is their restricitionss on building a patio and get a permit from them. Secondly lay out the propsed patio out on Arhitects paper whereas 1" would equal 1 foot. See if your township requires a permit and drawing and if they do you have it ready.
The construction:
Squarely measure 10'2" x 10'2" for the patio. The extra 2" is for 1" on each side because you will need to place a interior boarder of wood prior to pouring the concrete.
Hammer in a post (1"x1" wood) for each of the 4 corners.
Tie a continuous length of string close to the ground to each post and it doesn't matter what post starts the tie.
When you are finished your 10x10' will be defined.
Remove the dirt by first squaring the down edges with a shovel and dig down 3-4".
You will dig out the 10x10 area 3-4" down and place the dirt away from the area because you will no longer need this dirt. You may have a lot of dirt so keep it away from the proposed patio.
Lay in the 2x4 boards on the interior of the proposed 10x10 area. (The total lengths of lumber should be at least 40' in length and you can use 2x4 lumber).
When you are ready for cement you should hire a premix truck to deliver it.
Level the top of the newly poured patio with a length of wood and sort of vibrate the wood back and forth to remove air spaces. Use a broom to finish the top otherwise it can become slippery when wet.
I have installed around 35 patios in Pa. and I hope the method I use can help you. I know I left out a lot but it can be easier if you rad a book at the local home improvement store.
Total cost if you do the work with friends would be around $1,000 and take around 2.5 days cause the guys helping will need lots of beer....
Do not forget the wire mesh to put in the concrete to add strength. !0X10 ;if you know what you are doing will proably be easy to rent a miwewer for. That much concete would like only be delivered when a larger load was deliver to another site.You will alos need sand or 60/40 to put under the concrete and around the wooden frame to pour.Then of course the finishing is important; not hard but you need the right tools and know how. Othersise you endup with a mess.
yeah, there's no way we'd be renting a truck. We're either mixing this ourselves or not doing it. The final version is 8x12, we called a store about cement mix and they estimated 50 bags (at $4 a bag= $200). Not sure how much the sand/gravel and supports will cost (wire mesh instead of rebar?) Two sides of this will be right up against the house-- what do we do with that? Can we pour it right against the house or do we have to box it in?
A bag of cement mix is usually the complete mix and sand and small pea stones are within each bag along with the Portland and lime.
If that is the case then use wire mesh but be careful and use gloves. The entire wire mesh must be tied together with wire for strength. Don't use rebar because it is a real pain for small jobs and you could get injured.
You should not pour up to the house instead medal drip edge against the home then put a limiter of tar board between the home and the pour. (we call it tar board because this looks and smells and feels like a soft mesh of material permiated with tar and is 1/2" thick)
You can mix the concrete in the hole after you dig but make sure you do not dig up more dirt and add the mix and water because large amounts of dirt combined with crete will weaken the concrete. Also the less water you use the better the concrete. Some pros use so little water and call their mix "Dry". It doesn't run and almost looks like moist pour but their work lasts a lifetime.
Try not to do the job in the rain because it can produce a stain on your final product. You can cover the work with plastic if it rains.
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