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I notice that you listed the Arboretum. If you enjoy gardens/nature check out the McGovern Centennial Gardens at Hermann Park. Also, Bayou Bend is a nice place to visit (take a stroll), especially if azaleas are in bloom. It is near Memorial Park so could be a quick stop.
Bayou Bend is really a treasure if you're interested in American antiques. It's where the MFAH keeps its collection and has some amazing pieces. Ima Hogg was really a smart and accomplished woman and knew what she wanted and how to get it. We were there about 3 weeks ago for the first time in years, and I really enjoyed it. The docents are very informative about the pieces, but don't seem to know much about the architecture or building materials of the home itself, which is a shame, because many in our party were more interested in that than the furnishings. And, as PP mentioned, you can just tour the gardens at your leisure and skip the home tour.
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Originally Posted by jfre81
I'd probably consider striking all of these.
I mean, if you really want to just walk up to the Astrodome, sure. There's no tour. There's no going inside. You walk up, see this giant concrete sarcophagus, and leave. It's about an hour round trip from downtown on the rail, and the Dome isn't exactly right near the rail platform. So, if you beat feet and get over to it to go pay your respects to Cleveland-grade sporting disappointment and then get back, the best time you're going to make is about an hour and a half. I guess maybe you can tie this in with a museum stop or something.
Galveston is an hour each way, without event traffic. You don't just get in and out of Mardi Gras downtown. Understand that this is about the same time/distance as driving between Cleveland and Canton. Except this Canton's on an island with one way on and one way off, for your purposes anyway.
I probably wouldn't bother with Kemah if that's all you're going to do. Parking is a hassle there. Getting in and out is a hassle. If you would be the type to visit, say, Philadelphia and take hours out of your Philly tour to drive to Atlantic City just to walk on the boardwalk for 20 minutes, then by all means do so. And you can do Kemah, just know that you could probably hit two or three of your other points of interest in the time you'd chew up in the process.
I agree with the above. I would strike all those. For someone who lives near the water as you do, OP, I think you're going to be disappointed. I say that as someone who lives in the Bay area of Houston and previously lived in FL as well (Jax). If you do consider going, keep the following in mind:
1. Space Center Houston/NASA and the Kemah Boardwalk are just a few miles from each other and can be done as one trip. I think if you actually combine the two together, they might be worth a look.
2. If you go to Galveston, you should hit the historical district/Strand. Also, although I've never been, I heard the Bryan Museum is supposed to be good. It's a new museum housed in the former Galveston Orphans home and contains Texan and Western historical pieces. Our docent at Bayou Bend recommended it and the reviews look good. Planning on checking it out myself sometime soon.
Last edited by Texas Ag 93; 02-17-2020 at 10:02 AM..
I mean, if you really want to just walk up to the Astrodome, sure. There's no tour. There's no going inside. You walk up, see this giant concrete sarcophagus, and leave. It's about an hour round trip from downtown on the rail, and the Dome isn't exactly right near the rail platform. So, if you beat feet and get over to it to go pay your respects to Cleveland-grade sporting disappointment and then get back, the best time you're going to make is about an hour and a half. I guess maybe you can tie this in with a museum stop or something.
Galveston is an hour each way, without event traffic. You don't just get in and out of Mardi Gras downtown. Understand that this is about the same time/distance as driving between Cleveland and Canton. Except this Canton's on an island with one way on and one way off, for your purposes anyway.
I probably wouldn't bother with Kemah if that's all you're going to do. Parking is a hassle there. Getting in and out is a hassle. If you would be the type to visit, say, Philadelphia and take hours out of your Philly tour to drive to Atlantic City just to walk on the boardwalk for 20 minutes, then by all means do so. And you can do Kemah, just know that you could probably hit two or three of your other points of interest in the time you'd chew up in the process.
Fair enough and well reasoned-I can tell you that out of the ones you'd consider striking off-the only 2 I'm STRONGLY considering are San Jacinto Monument and Astrodome. I agree with your points really on the others.
Why San Jacinto? It seems unique-it isn't as far as the other places I mention, and it probably isn't as popular meaning that traffic getting there won't be too bad. It does look highly unique-and is the closest I could be to Houston while still getting a wide view (something I prioritize highly when traveling) of the coast, as well as a unique historical element/attraction many aren't aware of. Also, it opens at 9 am. We are early risers anyways, so I figure if we got there a little before (8:30) to get lay of land, we could be out of there by 9:30, and over to Galleria, or Montrose type area by the time those areas are actually up and running (10-11).
Why the Stadium? I understand I won't be able to do that much, but as a sports junkie, it'd be a shame to be in Houston, which I rarely am and not see it (it also only would add 10 mins to drive time). The other thing is that NRG is right next door, and the Texans do have a pro shop in stadium so at least I could get close enough to see both with one stop. I feel like I could leave from hotel at 8, get my fill of both of those, and still be on (by 10:30-11 or so) to checking a couple other things off my list (a mall, food, and a neighborhood) by the time car return comes around. Kemah itself doesn't open until 11, so I agree there would be little sense stopping there.. and Galveston in the morning probably wouldn't be any different from any other day. I do see that Galveston had a heritage streetcar line running for a while-perhaps on my next visit I'll go there and that will be up and running again.
-Just to clarify: Astrodome would definitely be a car stop if it happened-just off Exit 2 of the 610 I think. In no way would I consider taking rail over to see that one, for the reason you mention.
-Texas Ag-thanks for the recommendations on Galveston and that area down there, as well as Bayou Bend-somewhere I might consider as a walk is concerned-is admission to the Gardens free if you skip the home tour?
The San Jacinto Monument would be a must if it wasn't in the middle of a massive petrochemical complex.
Ever drove up to Detroit and rode 75 through River Rouge and by Zug Island? It's like that, only more massive.
On a clear day, you'll see downtown Houston on the horizon, beyond all that.
It's there because that's where the final battle of the Texas revolution happened.
Why San Jacinto? It seems unique-it isn't as far as the other places I mention, and it probably isn't as popular meaning that traffic getting there won't be too bad. It does look highly unique-and is the closest I could be to Houston while still getting a wide view (something I prioritize highly when traveling) of the coast, as well as a unique historical element/attraction many aren't aware of. Also, it opens at 9 am. We are early risers anyways, so I figure if we got there a little before (8:30) to get lay of land, we could be out of there by 9:30, and over to Galleria, or Montrose type area by the time those areas are actually up and running (10-11).
Just for your consideration, the San Jacinto monument is probably only a 20 minute drive from the Kemah Boardwalk and NASA. I'm not suggesting that instead of the Galleria and Montrose, but I'm just pointing it out since you'll have the car and are looking at maximizing your time.
I can't remember about the admission options into Bayou Bend, but I do recall that when we arrived, they asked us if we were interested in the gardens, home tour, or both.
So, on a certain level that takes away from it-but at the same time, while I have passed the drive you mentioned and other industrial areas-I don't see massive industrial stuff like that all that frequently anymore now that I live in the Sun Belt-because of that, it's a bit of a different vibe-can you see further out towards the Gulf also? That aspect does sound pretty cool.
No worries-I will look into the Bayou Bend site and see. That is a good point. I wouldn't say I am ruling it out entirely-but it does seem as though, if I am planning to see Johnson Space Center, I should prep to make that a major portion of my day. Considering how big of a space geek I am, even just getting there, taking the first basic 2 hour tour and then leaving would be a disappointment. Knowing what I know about Kennedy Space Center, I could probably spend all day-and then some. That's why I'm thinking I might be better served to save that for another visit that focuses on those places, and Galveston-and maybe not even go into Houston at all next trip.
Edit: I looked, and there's a $6 student rate to visit just the gardens. Not bad. I also see the Houston Arboretum and Nature Center is free. Which specifically are the best trails to walk/run in this vicinity? I saw one place where one of those free timed 5K meetups is being held-so I suppose that's an option too. I looked into some of the trails on the river itself-though some of them had warnings about snakes-I don't especially want to get into a stretch where that is a concern or it is particularly muddy, however, if it is a solid and clearly marked path, that's another story.
You have a good plan in place. You probably already know this...Memorial Park is the most popular spot for runners in Houston.
I notice that you listed the Arboretum. If you enjoy gardens/nature check out the McGovern Centennial Gardens at Hermann Park. Also, Bayou Bend is a nice place to visit (take a stroll), especially if azaleas are in bloom. It is near Memorial Park so could be a quick stop.
Hope you have an awesome weekend!
The trail around Rice is probably the second most popular running spot. A good number run around the trail around Hermann Park as well. And a good number along Braes Bayou. Those 3 trails are all adjacent to each other.
LONG post alert (tl;dr: we had a good time! I am thinking of doing some kind of travel blog soon-I just don't want to be a repeat of all that's out there, and want my ideas to fill a specific niche)
Houston Trip
Friday
-Flight at 7 (Almost Missed!)
-Fajitas at Airport (Hungry/Late)-Cadillac Mexican Kitchen/Tequila Bar (Decent)
-Rental Car (Hertz-With Downtown Return Point)
-Night (SpringHill Suites-Airport-Surprisingly Nice!)
Saturday
-Wake Up/Continental Breakfast
-Shopping stop at H-E-B (My wife’s favorite regional grocery chain)
-Brief Stop at San Jacinto Monument/Museum (Just to go up the tower and look in gift shop)
-Drive By/Picture of USS Texas/Brigham Monument
-Brief Stop to see Astrodome/Houston Rodeo/Fair Site/Reliant Stadium/Texans Team Shop
-BBQ Brunch at Pappa’s (Good)
-Shopping Stop at Galleria and Seeing Williams Tower/Waterwall Park
-Met Friend for late lunch in Montrose-BB’s Tex-Orleans (First time trying crawfish. Amazing/Life Changing)
-Returned Rental Car-Uber Over to Hotel-Hilton Americas
-Jog/Run Around Town, Seeing the Following Building Exteriors, Among Others: Toyota Center, GreenStreet, JPMorgan Chase Building, Enron/Continental Airlines Former HQs, The Heritage Society/Sam Houston Park, Wells Fargo Bank Plaza, Houston City Hall/Hermann Square (BEAUTIFUL Landscaping), Pennzoil Place, Hobby Center for the Performing Arts, Buffalo Bayou Park, etc.
-Ended that jog with a pint at 8th Wonder (LOVED the theme/layout- a Top 5 brewery experience for me)
-Swimming in the indoor rooftop pool at the Hilton (nice stay for a good value)
-Going back out Bombay Pizza Co. for dinner (Very Good), and another drink, this time over at La Carafe in Market Square to end the night. Was a pleasant surprise to see this section of downtown lively.
Sunday
-Enjoying a bit more of the hotel/rooftop views
-Walk over to Finn Hall for Amaya Coffee by way of Discovery Green
-Light Rail down to Hermann Park/Rice U station
-Walked through Hermann Park/Japanese Gardens back over to MFA not knowing it opens later
-Went instead to Museum of Natural Science (VERY impressed, borderline world class)
-Lunch at Bodegas Taco Shop (Decent-sadly not that adventurous with food as wife wasn’t feeling well)
-Light Rail back to Downtown, Check Out, Uber to Airport
A Few Thoughts:
Locals/Vibe: People were nice, as they are anywhere for the most part. One particularly nice story though, I wanted to share. My wife wasn’t feeling well at all Saturday evening and thus sort of just stayed in the room. She wanted fruit, but after that grocery store downtown closes at like 8, there really aren’t any options if you’re carless. However, as I was about to give up, I saw a food vendor next to the convention center (Avenida Eats I believe), that had just recently closed, and I asked if I could still purchase fruit from them, given the circumstances. They not only obliged, but gave two packages of fruit to me, for free. That’s the type of kindness I like to ideally pay forward. Also, the few people I spoke with who I told we were there for vacation-they were surprised and EXTREMELY flattered/proud that someone would visit Houston on purpose for a trip lol. Glad I made their day better, but I don’t see why anyone wouldn’t.
Transportation: So, being downtown, I have to say, the light rail, while not super extensive, was convenient for getting to where we needed to go, and comfortable, especially running between there and Rice/Museum District area. It did feel better than DART overall-that said, in fairness, the equivalent line to what I took in Dallas would probably be more like up towards Uptown/Mockingbird/SMU, and I never took that route while there. We never had any problems with traffic and overall driving wasn’t a problem either. That said though-the roads, for a sun belt city (or, at least compared to FL cities I guess), weren’t really in that great of shape. Not so much the highways-but some of the surface roads I noticed, especially around Midtown and Montrose areas. That said-still probably better condition than most Midwest cities still-just a little surprising that’s all. It didn’t negatively affect our visit other than making my wife’s existing headache a little worse.
Tourism: So, this isn’t a knock on Houston’s tourism from a standpoint of it lacking things to do (that, it definitely doesn’t), but more, just a shock at just how not touristed the area’s sites seem to be, even compared to say Dallas and Austin. Now, the Museum District sites were quite well attended. And as I mentioned, Market Square and Main Street areas of downtown were quite healthy with activity. But I guess I was just surprised at the state of things in a few places, but San Jacinto Monument and USS Texas in particular. Very nice sites, but some of the surrounding to it could DEFINITELY use some TLC. What I didn’t understand was that the San Jacinto had a beautiful reflecting pond in front of it clearly intended to be a walking space for people like a mini DC reflecting pool... but yet the path had overgrown grass throughout, and there were signs regarding “regrowing the prairie” in that patch. Not gonna lie-but that would seem to discourage visitors more from going down there, spending more time, etc., than actually sticking around in that area.
Food: We really only scraped the service of food in town unfortunately. Wife just didn’t really have any appetite. However, I did see just how good the food scene could be, and the range present makes me think I want to do another Fri-Sun like this here since it’s so cheap/easy, sometime in the next couple years at least. Crawfish was amazing. I’m obsessed. Also, the general décor, scene, etc. At 8th Wonder was AWESOME. Definitely one of the best craft brewery experiences I’ve had.
Overall: We had a good time. Actually, probably out of the Big 4 Texas cities we’ve visited (3 of 4 now in the last year), Houston I think we’d agree was our favorite experience. I don’t know what exactly it was, I think there was something that felt more familiar about the area? Like, it felt more midwestern than a number of southern cities given the industrial aspect.. The signage, etc., felt MUCH more like an Eastern/Florida city than Austin or Dallas which feel quite different and western. I also liked the exotic element that the extreme diversity of Houston brings to the table. Generally speaking, I prefer places that aren’t perfectly flat-but Houston somehow feels less topographically isolated in that sense than FL does (again, I’m not sure how to describe that)-and the trees and parks in Houston were beautiful-Hermann especially is gorgeous. Like a beautiful marriage of Atlanta and New Orleans type foliage. Anyways-like I said, we will more than likely return at some point, given how cheap and easy it is to do so! Thanks for your feedback and suggestions!
Last edited by theurbanfiles; 02-28-2020 at 08:32 PM..
Was just thinking about something-obviously, still had a good time, but a couple of things may have had an impact on my comparative enjoyment of Houston
1) We were on our own schedule, and not with family-as much as seeing family is good-it definitely makes an impact on pacing and experience of travel. Was just able to focus on destination-so even though we were there for shorter time than Austin, it felt like we saw more.
2) In Dallas, we stayed outside of downtown. Very close mind you-but not in a walkable spot. Regardless of hotel quality-there's no substitute for staying downtown or in a place you can walk to a lot of stuff for a city break type trip. I definitely think that upped the ante here and allowed us to see more in a short time.
But, please don't tell anyone. I like it when the Downtown Hilton is like $100 a night. Let everyone keep going to Nashville or Austin instead lol.
Edit: 2 weeks from next trip-London and possibly Paris-send good vibes for coronavirus not being a factor in our travels between now and then. For a couple reasons-that may be our last big trip for a few years, actually.
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