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Old 12-06-2020, 07:59 PM
 
17,622 posts, read 13,410,543 times
Reputation: 33098

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I have a 2009 Santa Fe with less than 70K miles. I actually bought it in 2015 with 12,560 miles on it from a 83 year old neighbor who fell and broke her hip and ended up in nursing home.


Anyway, last year after our 2nd 5K road trip the check engine light came on, not flashing


Took it to dealer, replaced fuel pump. Back on in 100 miles. Replaced 2 fuel sensors and gas cap, all at dealers expense. Light came on again each time at around 100 miles.


Just had the 3rd sensor replaced and now it's back on



(Each time it through the code for whatever was replaced next)



Mechanic and I are both at wit's end.
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Old 12-07-2020, 06:52 PM
 
5,187 posts, read 3,116,986 times
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What does the code reader say? (BTW, you can buy a decent OBDII code reader for ~$20 and skip the multiple trips to the mechanic)
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Old 12-08-2020, 04:15 PM
 
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I called and the tech didn't write down the code.


It was a high fuel pressure warning. Couldn't detect a leak


I'll get a code reader
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Old 12-08-2020, 04:29 PM
 
17,627 posts, read 15,327,179 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike1003 View Post
I called and the tech didn't write down the code.


It was a high fuel pressure warning. Couldn't detect a leak


I'll get a code reader

Umm.. If there was a leak.. The fuel pressure should be LOW, not high.



yeah.. get the code. Because that don't make a whole lot of sense.



You're going to the dealer on this?

It smells to me like you're going to be in the P044x range of codes.. Which would be your EVAP system. And.. I can tell you that EVAP codes have driven many a tech to drink.


Perhaps what was said, and not trying to be offensive here, i'm just HOPING that the issue is YOU not explaining things properly.. Maybe what he told you was that the code is in the High Pressure Fuel system. Most of the newer vehicles, all of them I suspect, that use Direct Injection, have TWO fuel rails. The pump from the tank is the normal fuel pump, but then you have another high pressure fuel pump and rail under the hood because Direct Injection requires much higher pressure at the injector.



That can make some sense, and I can understand you confusing the two when translating what the tech said. So, perhaps it's a low pressure on the high pressure rail.. THAT certainly could be confusing especially to someone unfamiliar.



Reason I hope it's you is that if your tech isn't explaining it right, that's a big ass red flag. And him not noting the code is.. To me, that's a big no-no. This is the precise reason you document everything as a tech.
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Old 12-16-2020, 01:44 PM
 
17,622 posts, read 13,410,543 times
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I finally got out, bought a code reader and checked. The code is P0135
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Old 12-16-2020, 02:20 PM
 
17,627 posts, read 15,327,179 times
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ok.. Re-read this.. The P0135 is your O2 sensor heater circuit.


Either the heater is bad, or the wiring. Not knowing where you are.. If you're a northern area where there's salt on the roads in winter.. I'd lean towards wiring. Otherwise, i'd suspect it's the heater itself, replace the O2 sensor.


but back up on something here. When I read this initially.. I thought you were getting the same code over and over.. Now, it's starting to sound like you've just gotten multiple different codes. He fixes one thing and something else breaks?


If that's the case.. You could just have bad luck vs a bad mechanic. It's not uncommon on some vehicles that once they hit a problem, they stop running diags on other modules. So, for example, you hit that code, it won't run EVAP tests. Many people don't understand this, so.. They pay $1000 or so to get a P0420 (Cat) code fixed.. It gets repaired, then we find that there's a large evap leak that wasn't throwing a code because the test wasn't running. And they are PISSED! That's why a good mechanic is going to explain this possibility to them, so that they know to expect it. Doesn't make it better, but makes them more understanding.




That code is Bank 1 sensor 1.. Which is the upstream and.. Is the side of the engine with cylinder 1.. Usually drivers' side. If it's 4 cylinder, then there's only one bank.


You can test the heater with a multimeter.. Unfortunately, I can't tell you how simple it is to access on the santa fe. Not a big Hyundai guy. I'll see if I can find some diagrams.
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Old 12-16-2020, 02:35 PM
 
17,622 posts, read 13,410,543 times
Reputation: 33098
Thanks, I just made an appointment tomorrow with local Hyundai dealer. COVID backlog is over. Great reputation


If local mechanic charged for unneeded work, hopefully I can get a refund. Wouldn't bet on it, but hopefully


Is there any real recourse on unneeded work?
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Old 12-16-2020, 02:57 PM
 
17,627 posts, read 15,327,179 times
Reputation: 22972
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike1003 View Post
Thanks, I just made an appointment tomorrow with local Hyundai dealer. COVID backlog is over. Great reputation


If local mechanic charged for unneeded work, hopefully I can get a refund. Wouldn't bet on it, but hopefully


Is there any real recourse on unneeded work?

Not really.. And.. Again.. There's a decent possibility that it wasn't unneeded work. It's fully possible that he fixed a legitimate problem, then you had another problem, which he fixed, and then you had another problem.


This is why the mechanic should always provide details. So.. I'm still knocking the guy for that. Even if he did everything so far as the previous repairs right and the repairs were totally needed.. He gets a 'fail' on documenting the issue and resolution.


Due to his failure to properly document, you are now questioning his work.His reputation is tarnished, and you'll probably never return to him for more.


That's no way to run a business.


If he had properly documented the trouble codes and what was done.. We could look at that and pretty easily say "Ok, he did X, Y and Z based off of A, B, C and that's all totally legitimate." Unfortunately, he didn't, and we cannot.


5 minutes of paperwork can avoid years of headaches.
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