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I can't find the thread I posted in about this before, and someone had DMed me offering assistance but I can't find the DM now.
So anyway. It turned out not to be a shield, or a loose bracket on the exhaust pipe. It's probably the catalytic converter, according to a non-dealer specialty auto repair shop (they specialize in BMW, Jag, plus Audi and another brand, I think Volvo).
IF it's the catalytic converter, I'll have to bring it to a dealer because (here's the good news): federal emissions warranty is 8 years 80,000 miles, and my car is 7 years and only 58,000 miles. (More good news): the dealer gives out free loaners when they service Jaguars.
IF it isn't the catalytic converter, it's probably either the torque converter or the fly wheel. Are either of these two things covered by the same 8/80k emissions thing? Does anyone know? And, would anyone know the *approximate* cost to replace these things, if it isn't covered? Assuming everything gets done without incident of course.
Only specific components of the emissions system are covered under federal warranty. The main component covered is the catalytic converter, but also can include fuel system parts and various sensorts, depending on the failure.
Unfortunately, the tranmission components you listed are not covered under the emissions warranty. The cost can be pretty steep, but here is what you are looking at. I guessed that you had an X-type. If this isn't the case let me know and I can reference more specific information.
Removal and installation of the transaxle (transmission in an X-type) is recommended at 15 hours of labor. Add .2 for removing and replacing the converter and/or .3 for removing and replacing the flywheel. So, you are looking at 15 - 15.5 hours of labor at whatever the going rate is. Let's say $100 at the average Jag place and labor alone should be around $1,500.
The torque converter itself is priced at $1,675. I don't have a specific price for the flywheel, though I doubt that's the issue. The flywheel is probably around $250. So, add the labor to the parts and you are looking at ~$3,200 not counting tax for a torque converter replacement and ~$1,750 for the flywheel.
If you end up needing a new transaxle the labor is about the same, but the part itself is ~$6,000 for new and ~$2,900 for a reman.
Please note that the quotes I provided are based on average retail repair times and parts costs. You can most likely do better than this with a good indie mechanic and I would treat the quote as the high end of what I would pay, but what you could expect at a dealer.
Yes it's the X-Type. I'm really hoping it's the catalytic converter - if it is, I get a new one free PLUS I get to drive a loaner free. My poor baby needs a 4-wheel alignment too, and I took a look under the car when they had it up on the lift, looks like I'll be needing a new exhaust pipe in the next year or two as well. Plus my back breaks are -juuuuuuust- starting to squeak, on particularly wet days, which means that's gonna be another expense within the next year.
A few hundred here and a few hundred there, I could handle. But over $4000 within 2 years, I could buy a beat up 2001 Civic and call it a day. And I just spent $800 on a set of tires last year <sob>
That was me that you spoke with earlier AnonChick.
I have the official Jaguar Service DVD, but in this case I'm not sure how much help it would be to you anymore than you've gotten already here.
NJGOAT was right on the mark with his reply. Jag service is $96.00/Hour to be exact.
But I have an idea that the place that told you it was the Cat Converter are probably right with that assumption. Your transmission is pretty darned robust. I would call the Jag dealer first to be sure that your cat converter will be covered entirely.
Your rear brakes aren't anything special and could be done practically anywhere (or by yourself) much cheaper than at the dealership.
The tires are expensive, no doubt. But you can save quite a bit by Googling them online.
I'm leaving in the AM until the 5th.... in case you DM me and don't get a reply immediately.
Yeah the tires I already had done. The $800 was for a full set of 4. But they desperately need an alignment. That plus the rear brakes..
Of course the manifold has a tiny crack in it, and they suggest I'll need a new one and I just stare at them and laugh. For the cost of a manifold, I can buy a new Jag. Let it leak, is my approach. 1 drop of oil per week isn't gonna kill me, or my car.
It really sounds like it's not the transmission. If it was something like the converter, you would be having issues driving it, not just hearing a clunk. I wanted to provide you the info just in case, so you weren't going in blind if they say it's a transmission issue.
Google information on the federal emissions warranty and you may want to print out a copy and bring it with you. I find a lot of shops "forget" that the warranty exists. Of course, if you go to the dealer or a good indie, they will have no problem doing it as long as it's covered.
Just as an FYI, you wouldn't necessarily have issues driving a car when the catalytic converter starts to rattle. And I didn't hear a clunk. Not sure where you picked that up. Like the title of my thread says: it's a rattling sound upon accelerating. And from what I've read since the Jag guy took a quick look, this is a very typical symptom of a converter that's starting to go bad. Little bits break off and rattle around inside it. You wouldn't have issues right away, sometimes not for many weeks. The rattling would get worse as time goes by, and *eventually* the pieces would clog up your system and cause severe damage.
But while it's merely rattling, and your car is performing fine otherwise, then that's all that's happening. It's rattling. And slowly deteriorating. But still safe to drive, and still performing just fine. This is the time when you need to get the catalytic converter replaced; while it's making the rattling, and before it deteriorates too much. So assuming this is the problem, I'm right on schedule.
My wife has an 02 x-type and it is doing the same thing. Can you post back if it was the cat. I will replace it myself if that is the case. I can't narrow it down to anything else. Damn that engine compartment is tight.
Just as an FYI, you wouldn't necessarily have issues driving a car when the catalytic converter starts to rattle. And I didn't hear a clunk. Not sure where you picked that up. Like the title of my thread says: it's a rattling sound upon accelerating. And from what I've read since the Jag guy took a quick look, this is a very typical symptom of a converter that's starting to go bad. Little bits break off and rattle around inside it. You wouldn't have issues right away, sometimes not for many weeks. The rattling would get worse as time goes by, and *eventually* the pieces would clog up your system and cause severe damage.
But while it's merely rattling, and your car is performing fine otherwise, then that's all that's happening. It's rattling. And slowly deteriorating. But still safe to drive, and still performing just fine. This is the time when you need to get the catalytic converter replaced; while it's making the rattling, and before it deteriorates too much. So assuming this is the problem, I'm right on schedule.
By "converter" I was referring to the torque converter that you had asked about, not the catalytic converter. I was trying to reassure you that chances are it isn't something like the torque converter, because you would be having issues driving the car. Since everything is fine except for the rattle, it does indeed sound like it is most likely the catalytic converter. Sorry I wasn't more specifc.
I had the same thing happen on a performance car I owned that had high flow cats. They broke down and it sounded like pebbles or metal in a coffee can. In my case, I just took them off, hollowed out the cat (shop vac on one end and a broom handle on the other) and retuned the car for not having the cats on there. This is obviously illegal, but at the time I really wasn't concerned about it.
If you keep driving on a collapsing cat, eventually one of the pieces will break out and block the exhaust pipe. Then you will have drivability issues.
They're telling me it IS the torque converter. It's at the dealer now, and they say I need to get a new transmission. I'm waiting for them to call back with pricing. Anyone have a clue, within the next um...10 minutes?
Edited to add: they say it's the torque converter, but that they can't just replace that one part, they'd have to replace the whole transmission.
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