[lvoc]

Originally Posted by MediocreButArrogant

Expected life of a concrete tile roof is estimated at 50 years. The felt paper underneath usually needs to be replaced at 25. So assuming a concrete tile roof, you're four years overdue for new paper underneath (then reinstall old tile roof over paper), but once you do that, you should be good for another 20-25 years.

I would be a mistake to put something on that roof now if it's all original components.

They go longer than that. The oldest roofs in Sun City Summerlin are now at 28 years and there is a significant set over 25. We see no growth in the leaks that would cause one to think end of life of the paper was upon us. Virtually all the leaks seen to date have been flashing or similar.

Given the low failure rate I would expect they are going past at least 35 and maybe 40.

I expect my roof will need replacement soon in the asphalt area under the AC units. But the tile area appears fine.

[MediocreButArrogant]

Originally Posted by winter-rabbit

Ever do kids laundry? 12 loads each week!!

I cook at home most often using induction cooktop.

The cost to run my LG WM3470A front-load washer was calculated to be $116 per year for 392 loads and $0.12 per kWh, or less than $10 per month. 12 loads per week is less than twice that.

Drying only uses electricity to spin the drum and run the fan, so unless you were stupid and bought an electric dryer, it costs even less to dry than to wash. Laundry hardly seems to be a significant contributor with today's energy efficient appliances. Same goes for a pool, unless you either don't have a variable speed pump, or are required to run at high speed for solar, water features, or in-floor cleaning. Oh, and pressure side cleaners too.

[MediocreButArrogant]

Originally Posted by lvoc

Given the low failure rate I would expect they are going past at least 35 and maybe 40.

If there's no significant additional cost to waiting to replace it, then yes, it doesn't make sense to replace it early. But if you were about to do something that significantly increases the cost of a roof repair, I'd seriously consider doing it early as preventative maintenance before any problems appeared.

[lvoc]

Originally Posted by MediocreButArrogant

The cost to run my LG WM3470A front-load washer was calculated to be $116 per year for 392 loads and $0.12 per kWh, or less than $10 per month. 12 loads per week is less than twice that.

Drying only uses electricity to spin the drum and run the fan, so unless you were stupid and bought an electric dryer, it costs even less to dry than to wash. Laundry hardly seems to be a significant contributor with today's energy efficient appliances. Same goes for a pool, unless you either don't have a variable speed pump, or are required to run at high speed for solar, water features, or in-floor cleaning. Oh, and pressure side cleaners too.

You are presuming gas is available. Not always true in Las Vegas. It is within a block of us but still not available.

[lvoc]

Originally Posted by yellowsnow

Jonathan, I am very interested in this! I hope you post everything! How big a system are you getting? Want all the details please.

I am working on taking my pool off the grid and I have run into a stumbling block. I just don't know who to believe. I wanted to avoid batteries and I found some companies who say their pump will run direct from solar. And there are utube videos showing the systems. But all the solar knowledgeable people I talk to say that's not true and the pump has to run off a battery that is charged by the solar panels. I would be quite happy with a system that would run only when the sun shines but I'm stuck on the battery thing.

Down the road I am planning to put in some adjunct AC units like the ones used in RV's. Then I will use those in addition to the regular AC.

It is trickier than it looks. You can configure a system to run off the solar panels directly but it comes with some problems. First off it pretty much has to be a kit...pump and controller rigged to come right off the panels. Basically a DC motor...brushless likely with a controller rigged to handle the voltages from the solar arrays. The difficulty is that the motor performance basically tracks the sun. That means you may have problems with things like pool cleaners.

The alternative is basically you build a conventional solar to battery to inverter version. You don't have to have a full blown battery pack...just enough to run the pump for a period of time...maybe 15 minutes. Might turn out better though to have a bigger bank so it does not deep cycle. Get a lot of years out of the batteries if they don't generally discharge much. Now you can run a pool cleaner or a solar pool heater for at least a while without trouble.

I would look around for a kit either way. That gets someone else to do the engineering.

[macgeek]

I have learned in life, anytime.. ANYTIME you touch something old it breaks...
I know if I would leave the roof alone, i would get more time out of it.
BUT
Adding solar, people walking on it... Ohh No this is money WELL SPENT!!!!!

Jonathan

[NLVgal]

Originally Posted by usnftcret

You must be running a grow house to be averaging $300 per month for electricity.

Not really. Summertime AC bills can be very high, and if he's all electric, meaning heater, dryer, stove etc., he's paying top dollar. Forgot about the water heater and dishwasher. chaChing $$

[macgeek]

One of the reasons my bills are so high is that, I have a small (28k) pool and a variable speed pool pump won't really help with and a Hot tub, those two combines is half my electricity. Then Technology takes up the other half.

I have energy efficient appliances, LED lighting, Good insulation, But I just consume power (that or NVenergy is *****ING) me -- What ever it is, my bills are in that $300 a month rate. So Solar seems to be the best way to lower my costs.

I am attempting to get quotes from solar companies, a standard practice they do, is they give you an estimate of $50,000 for the system, BUT if you sign NOW they take $6000 off as a 'sign up promotion' what they really are doing is Jacking up the price and then lower it back to normal after you take the 'incentives' I really wonder how many people fall for that.

Jonathan

[BBMW]

You said you don't run the AC? What are you using all that electricity for? I'd get someone to do an analysis to see if you can cut your usage before doing the solar system.

Edit: Okay, you answered this. It's all your laundry, cooking, heating, etc.

You say the house is all electric. Have you called Nevada Power (I assume they'd be the right company), to see if there's any possibility of running gas to your house? It would likely make the cooking, heating, and cloths drying much cheaper. Hell, I might even consider propane.

Originally Posted by winter-rabbit

I am planning to install a DIY system that cost $6000. My house is all electric including heating. It should limit the damage of an average $300/monthly bill.

I will add more panels as my budget allows.

[winter-rabbit]

Did you not read my response?

I don't have gas at my property. Everything is electric.

Originally Posted by MediocreButArrogant

The cost to run my LG WM3470A front-load washer was calculated to be $116 per year for 392 loads and $0.12 per kWh, or less than $10 per month. 12 loads per week is less than twice that.

Drying only uses electricity to spin the drum and run the fan, so unless you were stupid and bought an electric dryer, it costs even less to dry than to wash. Laundry hardly seems to be a significant contributor with today's energy efficient appliances. Same goes for a pool, unless you either don't have a variable speed pump, or are required to run at high speed for solar, water features, or in-floor cleaning. Oh, and pressure side cleaners too.