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In that case, I would get someone up there with a high pressure hose and blow out the downspout.
like a clogged kitchen sink...what I do is pull a long snake into the downspout....pull it & down...then hose the loose stuff down....works like a charm.
It's common on LI but using spikes through the fascia board is a really bad way to hold the gutter because the hole it makes does two things:
1) expands and contracts with moisture absorbtion and temp. changes, and
2) rots.
Both of these conditions will eventually allow the pitch of the gutter run to change, as the spike becomes loose, and will cause low spots where debris and water collects (think mosquito breeding ground) and may cause water to overflow against the siding.
Also, while an industry standard practice, the gutter shouldn't be directly against the fascia. There should be spacers wherever the gutter brackets (not spikes) are placed to ensure a 1/2"-1" gap between the fascia and gutter where water may runover the lip of the gutter without running up the roof or soaking the fascia. This type of installation isn't commonly done because the gauge of the most common aluminum gutters is high (thin) and requires more brackets, more cost, longer installation time. Copper gutters always have a space between the gutter and fascia unless installed by someone whom doesn't know better.
like a clogged kitchen sink...what I do is pull a long snake into the downspout....pull it & down...then hose the loose stuff down....works like a charm.
Depending on how stubborn the clog is, I've used a power washer hose or a drain snake (or both).
I have to admit, I am afraid to go up with a power hose.....water + force= more chance to fall off the ladder or roof.
Using and electric power washer doesn't give you the push back like gas powered one. If I had to use the gas powered one, I'd hire someone to do it.
Falling is the easy part. The sudden stop tends to be an issue.
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