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Many POS developments on LI even had 1/2” plywood used as roof sheathing?
Quote:
Originally Posted by isles08
1/2" roof sheathing is pretty good by LI POS development standards. Try 3/8"on the roof. Do you believe that? Soon after buying my home, I realized the walls were 3/8". I figured the roof had to be 1/2" at least, though. Nope, 3/8". And the roof was replaced a year or two before I bought the home...old layers were stripped off but they kept the original 3/8" sheathing.
I have a roof over my head...barely. But, I've heard this is common on Long Island in 1960s homes.
Now that you mention it, the roofer did say that the deck was "interior plywood". I'd forgotten that when I spoke to the other people who had the same company do their roof, so I didn't ask specifically if that was what they had.
We're not in a "development" area, in the sense that the same building did cooky-cutter houses. There's a mixture of houses and ages, although most seem to be from the 1940s through the 1960s. Colonials and ranches, some capes, and the occasional high-ranch is scattered here and there. Most are 1/2 acre but there are some horse properties here and there too. So I just figured that whoever happened to build this house cheaped out and used interior plywood, i.e., it was an anomaly. Guess it wasn't so unusual after all!
We are the fifth owners of the house (built in 1960, though the house across the street was built in the 1930s) and there was only one roof layer when we bought it. Former owners added a porch in 2009 and it looked as though the roofing was replaced at that time. Like isles08's prior owners, they changed the shingles but kept the original interior-plywood deck ... yes, more idiots.
If the interior grade and/or 3/8" plywood was a fairly common thing for 60s builders, that would explain why deck-rips are more common than I thought -- and not just a "thing" that this particular roofer tends to find. Guess I was being a bit too suspicious. The other people I talked to have 1960s homes also, though in different parts of LI (one in southwestern Suffolk, one in central Nassau, and I'm north shore Suffolk.)
D&S is still dead wrong about combining 6" gutters with 2"x3" downspouts though, lol
If you look closely at their Yelp reviews you can see that all the good reviews are shills. If they're threatening to void the warranty and giving low-ball offers just to rape you after the roof is ripped off, they are scumbags. They should disclose the chance of this happening up front, and even ask to take a look in the attic so they can get a sense of how bad the roof might be beforehand. If it were my company, I would do that first and quote two prices up front so as to set the expectation before ripping anyone's roof off. That's the right way to do it.
Now that you mention it, the roofer did say that the deck was "interior plywood". I'd forgotten that when I spoke to the other people who had the same company do their roof, so I didn't ask specifically if that was what they had.
We're not in a "development" area, in the sense that the same building did cooky-cutter houses. There's a mixture of houses and ages, although most seem to be from the 1940s through the 1960s. Colonials and ranches, some capes, and the occasional high-ranch is scattered here and there. Most are 1/2 acre but there are some horse properties here and there too. So I just figured that whoever happened to build this house cheaped out and used interior plywood, i.e., it was an anomaly. Guess it wasn't so unusual after all!
We are the fifth owners of the house (built in 1960, though the house across the street was built in the 1930s) and there was only one roof layer when we bought it. Former owners added a porch in 2009 and it looked as though the roofing was replaced at that time. Like isles08's prior owners, they changed the shingles but kept the original interior-plywood deck ... yes, more idiots.
If the interior grade and/or 3/8" plywood was a fairly common thing for 60s builders, that would explain why deck-rips are more common than I thought -- and not just a "thing" that this particular roofer tends to find. Guess I was being a bit too suspicious. The other people I talked to have 1960s homes also, though in different parts of LI (one in southwestern Suffolk, one in central Nassau, and I'm north shore Suffolk.)
D&S is still dead wrong about combining 6" gutters with 2"x3" downspouts though, lol
Interior plywood isn’t an issue. Nobody uses treated plywood on a roof. You could use 3/4” thick for less money. Also, you mentioned in your other post they charged $100/sheet plus labor. If so, that’s crazy as well. Besides that seems pretty standard. Most houses built in the 60’s are development houses. Unless you are living in some exclusive neighborhood on North Shore.
It was $75 per sheet. That seems standard hereabouts, because we've been getting siding estimates recently and all the contractors' bids specify that if any of the sheathing needs to be replaced it will be charged at $75 per sheet.
The "plus labor" wasn't per sheet, it was part of the total extra cost for the roof: X number of sheets at $75, and then the balance between that number and the total additional cost was for the labor. That part was more than the extra materials, for sure.
Try calling Tom Jannace Roofing for an additional estimate. I used him years ago for a roof repair and found him to be very upstanding and honest (a rarity these days).
Query - when you had your roof replaced - did you have to remove all your stuff on the second floor? There's a sloping roof with some attic space in the eaves, but the 2nd floor right under the roof is fully furnished with living quarters. One guy told our kids they had to clear everything out - another guy said they didn't have to remove anything and could continue living/sleeping there throughout the repair work but that it would be really loud and noisy - the only real problem. We never got our roof done so we can't advise the kids. We asked our neighbors who we saw had a tarp on their roof after one of the major storms but they said they only did replacement shingles and didn't have to clear anything out - it was done in a day but they left the tarp a couple days to make sure there wasn't any leaking so things would settle or something.
Well, our second floor is the unfinished attic and there is nothing in there except the central air unit and ductwork.
However ... the roofers left a gawdawful mess because of having to replace most of the existing plywood deck (an unexpected development.) An incredible amount of debris from the ripping-off fell into the attic: pieces of plywood, lots of nails, and asphalt granules galore.
So if you are unlucky enough to need any of the decking replaced over that finished attic area, it would be smart to clear everything out of there. That may be why the roofer advised you to do that, just in case when they start ripping shingles off, they find any issues.
Honestly, after seeing the amount of debris that ended up in our attic, if I were you I'd clear the room/space out. Better safe than sorry.
they said they only did replacement shingles and didn't have to clear anything out - it was done in a day but they left the tarp a couple days to make sure there wasn't any leaking so things would settle or something.
A completed roof shouldn't require a tarp over it, and there's nothing to "settle." The only thing that changes on a finished roof is that the adhesive strips on the underside of the nailed-on shingles take time to soften and bond properly (seal down), depending on what time of year they were installed. A roof installed in December in our area may not fully seal until spring or early summer, especially if it's a cold winter with repeated snow cover on the roof. Shingles installed in April or May will bond a lot quicker, and a summer roofing job will seal in a couple of days. But the roof is watertight immediately, or should be if it was installed properly.
I doubt your neighbor's tarp had anything to do with the shingles sealing, because the sun hitting the roof is what warms the shingles, softens the adhesive, and causes them to seal. Covering the roof with a tarp would shade it and thus prevent sealing. So I have no idea why they would put a tarp over a finished roof. Very odd. (unless high winds were expected in the next few days and they thought the unsealed shingles might lift up on the edges and blow off; but winds that high would rip the tarp off pretty darn quick, lol)
Okay, I'm going to update my original post about D & S Roofing with something discovered this past week.
The house is currently being re-sided and it was discovered that when D & S installed the gutters (which, as mentioned previously, were oversized but with undersized downspouts) on one section of the house which does NOT have an eave/soffit, they attached the new gutter OVER the drip edge instead of under it. As a result the water has been pouring down the wall instead.
They also replaced a section of the old fascia board there but instead of using something decent they stuck up a piece of 1x8 pine (incorrectly, I might add) and tacked the old aluminum coil over it. Between the material and the water pouring down the wall instead of into the gutter, there was a lot of water damage in less than a year. The sheathing was delaminating and almost all of it had to be replaced as well as the so-called fascia.
The water diversion into the wall wasn't noticed because the same downspout that serves that gutter section also gets water from the adjacent side of the house (that room is on a corner) and so it appeared as though everything was working properly, i.e., water coming out the downspout as expected. No clue that the hack job was rotting stuff away out of sight.
I think I mentioned earlier that a large section of their new front guttering began pulling away from the fascia after about six months. And that they installed the incorrect type of roof vent for one of the exhaust fans.
So despite their advertising and "four generations" blah blah blah, I would definitely not recommend them to anyone, especially if in the market for a new roof.
Another thing that was discovered -- and I lay the blame for this squarely on whoever put on the previous roof between 1964 and 2009 (prior owners) -- was that the ventilated soffit panels were covering completely solid enclosed eaves. Not a vent hole in sight. WTH is the point of putting a ventilated soffit trim on a solid piece of wood?!??!?!?!? You might as well hang a window up against a solid wall like a picture, for all the good that the window OR the ventilated soffit panel would do in that situation. I'm not sure who was stupider: the former owner(s) or whatever hack they hired to replace the original 1960s roof.
I specified fully ventilated soffit panels for this job, ASSuming that there would be vent cuts in the soffits. The current crew has been told to essentially make the existing panels look like swiss cheese, LOL. But it p's me off no end to realize that for 10 months I've had a ridge vent that has done pretty much no ventilating at all because there has been ZERO air coming in through those solid eaves. Unbelieveable.
Rant over, sorry.
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