[dori36]

The home inspection is a good starting point to search out defects (or to find that there aren't many) in a property you're thinking of purchasing. Maybe the most important consideration is how long, by your offer to purchase contract, do you have to present, then agree to repair or replace, defects. Usually the contract states "x" days to "object" (inspect, make your list, present it to the seller.) and "x" additional days to come to an agreement between buyer and seller regarding the "list'.

Within the boundaries of the agreed upon timeline, make a list of everything you think, honestly, is unacceptable to you as a buyer. Do your homework to decide what it will take, dollarwise, to repair/replace. Present the information to your agent who will (I trust) present it to the seller or seller's agent.

Then, phase 2 of the timeline kicks in which is the "resolution" part. You and the sellers have however many days you agreed on in the purchase agreement to come to a "resolution" of your requests. Usually there's a little give on each side until an agreement is made.

Be professional, reasonable but don't ignore any real concerns. And, don't 'guess' on costs to make the defects right. Get real estimates.

Yes, I 'was' a Realtor.

Good luck!

[magellan]

Originally Posted by johnfinn

I think it would be "well" worth the extra 100-150 to have a well & septic inspection done separately from the home inspection. Some HI's routinely bring in a company as part of their inspection to review at the same time. One check is cut for the entire inspection, with the inspection company paying the well/septic inspector company directly for their services (rolled into their HI fee). A fee can easily be negotiated between the HI and WI and save their customer's the aggravation of having to set-up multiple people to come out. Same with pest inspections if the HI is not qualified or interested in offering that service.

I didn't see where the OP mentioned whether it is well/septic or city water/sewer??

[Coldjensens]

- Microwave does not work (apparently at all) Scary enough, the inspector did not find this, but the people that are currently renting the home told me while I was there after the inspector left. Replacing it with a similar kitchenaid quality microwave will easily cost 600-1000 dollars, to be honest.

WHat? $600-$1000?? Is this one of those silly microwave ovens that is mounted in a giant stainless steel box with lots of large buttons to make it appear really expensive and cool? Microwaves are essentially the same and mostly made by the same manufacturers. The differences are in wattages and interior size. The size of the case, material of the case and the number of shiney things or buttons ont he exterior really make no difference. Most of them have the same fancy programs that no one ever uses. There is really no significant difference between a reasonably priced microwave and the overpriced ones. If you are paying that kind of money for a microwave, you are just throowing your money away (unless you have an obsessive compulsion for polishing stainless steel and need to maximize the amount of stianless in your kitchen to clean and polish three times a day).

- Stainless fridge has a decent size scratch in the door (we're not talking hairline, definately noticable and gouging into the metal) The new cost of the fridge is around 2k and the replacement door seems to be 500 dollars. (looked online for part costs)

If you had put this scratch in the fridge, would you replace it, or even replace the door? Go look at a scratch and dent warehouse and see how much they discount a simlar fridge with a simlar dent. However, if you get the chance, you might want to use this opportunity to get rid of the stainless steel and get something more practical (and less demanding of constant cleaning and polishing).

How did this get dented? If it opens against a corner, you will eventually put the same dent in it anyway.

- Damage on one section of gutter near the garage, mostly cosmetic, not really functional, and a busted up downspout from im guessing someone running into it with their car.

The downspout should be repaired or replaced. You do not want to mess with problems from having ater where it is not supposed to be. It can cause serious damage. Repair or replacment of the gutter and downspout is cheap and easy. However if it has been that way for a long time, I would have someone investigate to see whether it has or is likley to lead to rot, mold/mildew, or foundation/settlement problems.

- A few holes on the siding from woodpecker damage. Some epoxy seal would fix that right up.

But the woodpeckers will come right back. They will also pull insulation out, so be sure to fill the hole with insulation before you patch the hole. Also you need to use the correct product to seal the hole. It must expand and conract withthe wood siding, or it will pop right out.

To get rid of the woodpeckers we found that we have to hang shiney streamers from the eaves. You can also buy woodpecker attack spiders online (a gimmick designed to scare away woodpeckers). Keep in mind that you will have to replace these regularly. If you ever fail to repalce them, you will get more holes. You could have a kid shoot them with a BB gun (but that is illegal). You can try to lure them away by offering suet and then moving it a few feet each day until they change their territory to your neighbor's yard.

Woodpeckers are a serious and unending problem. They are protected. They are persistent. Even when you think that you have finally won and are woodpecker free for 6 months, you will get surprised. They are like a bad penny.

There were a few other things, like some lifted boards on the deck, but not even worth mentioning, I am not going to nitpick a 1 hour fix and 10 dollars in parts, I can do that myself.

So, what would you guys suggest? For the appliance issues, I'd assume that instead of asking to repair, just asking for 1000-1500 to replace + labor costs on my own would be sufficient, but would they balk at that? (FYI, the home is mid 300k range)

As for the gutter, downspout, and woodpecker damage, Im guessing that might be nitpicking too much?


You may tick the owners off if they percieve that you are nitpicking or being ridiculous. Just make an offer that includes enough of a discount to cover these items. You do nto need to raise these items. IN this market, no one expects to get their asking price. Heck in many places it is not uncommon to get only 60% of the asking price. If the owners get ticked and/or decide that they do nto like you, they will be less willing to negotiate. Although it all comes down to money, people do not want to sell their home to a person that they do not like. If they want you to have tis particular home, then they will be more inclined ot negotiate with you.

[johnfinn]

Originally Posted by magellan

I didn't see where the OP mentioned whether it is well/septic or city water/sewer??

It is a bit off topic I guess. Was referring to comments 5,6 and 9. Don't think he did mention. Point I am trying to make is it isn't out of the ordinary to have multiple inspections if you think its warranted, or the home inspector chosen does not offer as part of the inspection. A little more costly, but not technically exhaustive by any means. Well and septic systems demand a bit more scrutiny imo due to replacement costs, and worth the extra $ to have reviewed. Dented gutters and downspouts shouldn't be ignored, but I would expect some wear and tear items with a used home.

[mich2fla]

When we sold our Ada Township house before moving to our current house, the buyer's inspector came through...I was present for it and pretty much followed him...he did not check the appliances that are staying with the house. He did uncovered many little things that needed attention. Most are minor stuff and the buyer did not come to us for resolution. It was our 3rd house and the easiest closing me and my wife ever gone through.