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Old 07-21-2011, 02:11 PM
 
19,023 posts, read 25,957,812 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catman View Post
Another problem with an old bike is finding someone who knows how to work on it. I'm lucky enough to know of a shop that specializes in old bike repair. My 27-year-old bike needs such a shop on occasion. (I'm not mechanically inclined.)
I agree, but that isn't any problem I have. x foreign car tech, and the vintage bikes for me are relitively easy if I can get book specs. In a way the same goes for new old stock parts. If you can find a dealer older than the bike, they may have new old stock still......... maybe. My yammi nhas a Kawi tach drive oil seal. That seal from yammi was always a problem. By matching OD and I D kawwi had one built a lot better. It was worth the trouble to match by dimention, rather than part numbers.

And old part numbers tend to get re-cycled too. I found that out needed a gas cap seal. I brought the entire part cap hinge and bracket, with the very dead rubber seal.

Parts guy looks it up grins and says be right back. He came with a box and upon opening it was very wrong part. I had paid for that part, so he went back to the book and looked for a whole new cap with everything on it. he found a old dusty box and managed to blow the dust off in my face, but I wasn't upset a bit when he pulled out the whole thing new, and the seal was good.

He let me have it for the money paid, mentioned it's too bad you will need 2 keys now. I didn't need any stinking 2nd key, I swapped my lock to the new scratch free cap.
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Old 07-21-2011, 02:50 PM
 
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Quite honestly, I don't think it matters which bike you get first. Get something small (displacement) and easy to learn on. If you're like the 99% of us out there, you'll end up with a different bike within a year.
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Old 07-21-2011, 04:36 PM
 
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL
228 posts, read 718,595 times
Reputation: 169
I'm really digging the idea for an older (1976 and up) UJM. I see a few on Craigslist, in good shape with updated components for around 1000, which is awesome. Plus if I drop it, it's not a big deal.

The thing that has me going that way is when I'm really good I can take the bike and make it into a cafe, which I've always liked the style. I'm a mechanic so I'm good with my hands, so fixing and updating the bike isn't going to be a big deal, I see lots of parts on eBay and Amazon for these bikes, since alot where made.
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Old 07-22-2011, 09:38 AM
 
19,023 posts, read 25,957,812 times
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Being a mechanic is a whole other game, if your good. If I wasn't, I couldn't have re-built the 81 sx850sh. That came right off a scrap yard heap, and I traded a new process 4x4 transfer case for it even swap.

The ft wheel was so oil soaked and filthy from the tach drive cable I thought it was supposed to be solid black But even with E-Bay it took a year to get better exhaust system.

The older dealer than the bike was assisted greatly in getting just about every rubber part there is.

I was able with time to get 3 new rubber intake manifild boots, since the ones I had from the junk yard were nearly gone. (3 carbs on a 3 banger Yammi triple cylinder bike) I got all new foot peg covers of rubber and a rear disk brake caliper stop rubber too, and ev en the shifter rubber was splitting, almost lost.

What I couldn't get I made work, or found another bike brand with similar enough parts to work, sometimes there were even better than stock, like that tach drive seal.

The first one was a yammi seal, total piece of junk and it didn't last. The next one I spent time matching up by OD and ID and that one has a inner seal coil spring to pull the seal lip tight to the shaft. That one was kick ass.

Another thing you need to know is almost every olderUJM bike has a weak connector between the alt and the rec/reg. A great deal of stators have been fried for that high resistance problem.

For reasons I don't know the Dealer fix was always to let the stator fry and bthe entire industry went along with that game and for no good reason. Stators don't have to die, the connectors need to be cut out and soldered.

I cound the soldering of these wires wasn't easy. There is a coating on the wire itself, not the insulation. I tried a lot of different fluxes, before I found one that worked and that was the pink tinning soultion from NAPA brand. Untill I discovered that no solder would stick to the wires.

The stators failing was about as common as having coffee at breakfast time. All I know is somebody really dropped the ball on that problem and the oversight was extraordinary.

Cutting out the connector is no big deal, all it does is let you pull the engine from the frame, and so you simply cut the wires and solder them back if you have to pull the engine from the frame. That's easy once you have flux that works.

Drops.... Well thar's 2 kinds of riders. Those who have dropped their bikes and those who will drop their bikes someday.

There is 2 other kinds of riders. There is bold riders, and there is old riders, but there is no old bold riders.

A very dangerous point tends to happen at around the end of the 1st year of riding. It is at about this point in time and experience where over confidence sets in. That idea does get people killed, or busted up so bad they live to wish they died. Don't do that.

There is a lot of new things to learn riding. One of the biggest is understanding you have just become invisable A very hard skill to master is looking where you want to go. The eye tends to look at the up and coming next terror, and if you look at it you will go there. Don't do that either.

The next best advice I can give is after you get a bike, get the Clymers for it. So far as I know Clymers is the only aftermarket book out with in color wiring diagrams. I got one for my 850, and the dealer gave me a factory shop manual all stained from years of use for the xs850sg, which is the year before my bike and is almost identical. Just ask when you get parts at any dealers older than the bike you get.

Both books have errors..... Becarefull to get it right. The Clymers is based on a tear down, and if you don't know to stop in time and continue taking off parts before you get what ever it was fixed you will have a lot more parts to get. That was a bit of a shock when I did the clutch. LOL I had that off and the book was getting deeper in the tear down, not going back together.

For now. last, once you get to work on the bike, use a ground cloth. Bikes have lots of tiny parts, and these tend to bounce, and then you can't find what it was, something that fell and you didn't even get a good look in the first place. If it lands on a old white bed sheet at least you get to ponder what in jumpin blue blazes it is and how it fits.

With out that tiny part who knows.....

Last edited by Mac_Muz; 07-22-2011 at 09:46 AM..
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Old 07-23-2011, 06:20 PM
 
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, FL
228 posts, read 718,595 times
Reputation: 169
Thanks for all the info, I'll let you know what I get in a few days.
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Old 09-18-2011, 02:19 PM
 
Location: Democratic Peoples Republic of Redneckistan
11,078 posts, read 15,076,221 times
Reputation: 3937
Quote:
Originally Posted by tr00th View Post
I’m 6’5” and new to motorcycles. I’m going to take the MSF course very soon, but in the mean time I’ve been going to different motorcycle shops and dealers to sit on the bikes see which ones would fit my size.

My budget is 2000 dollars, I’m asking the taller riders what type of bike do you like for the price range, which would be great for taller riders. I don’t have a type of bike I prefer. I like dual-sports which I know are great for taller riders, sports and cruisers too.

Whatever you guy think is great for my size is welcome, thanks.
Older XR650L....just really work on your first gear clutch/take off skills...I'm 6'3" 250lbs and they always carried me wherever I wanted to go...save up for a better seat or your a$$grapes will become your enemy.
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Old 09-18-2011, 11:15 PM
 
Location: Metromess
11,798 posts, read 25,178,279 times
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Mac_Muz: I hear you concerning the stator. I used to have a 1980 Suzuki GS1000G that was a great bike (I bought it new and put over 128K miles on it), but it went through stators and associated electrical parts about once a year (or two if I was lucky). Other than that, it was absolutely reliable.
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Old 09-19-2011, 07:09 AM
 
19,023 posts, read 25,957,812 times
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I don't hear of the stator problems like I used too. But looking at the main connector for that part of the charging system is still a wise idea. If it shows sign of heat with a melted warped connector it's best to plain cut it out and solder it up. Wire insulation will show other sign, getting yellowed from what ever color the insulation was supposed to be.

This is where looking for the problem before there IS a real problem can save hundreds of dollars.
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Old 09-19-2011, 12:57 PM
 
Location: Metromess
11,798 posts, read 25,178,279 times
Reputation: 5219
Good point. But on the GS1000G and presumably other GS bikes of its era, the stator was in a position where it got too hot, inside the cases with the hot oil. Now I'm no mechanic, but that is what I was told by a mechanic. The problem recurred several (many) times. Anyway, it's ancient history now.
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Old 09-19-2011, 06:00 PM
 
19,023 posts, read 25,957,812 times
Reputation: 7365
Many Japanese bikes suffered the stator problem and some still may for al I know. I just don't hear of it like I once did. At this time I ride a 06 Nomad and I have never heard of a alt going down one of them yet to date from 1999. Of course nothing is perfect and Vulcans have their fair share of flaws. These have 18 diodes and I sure hope I never have to do any diagnostics on one.
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