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The revving is totally for show and effect, ask him to stop..i ride a bike and do it every once and a while to hear my engine but not every time i come and go..it ticks the neighbors off..my guess is hes a young kid with a crotch rocket right?
AnesthesiaMD, If you can get detailed pics I can help probably. These would be airfilter assembly off. A shot of the pilot screw aka low speed mix screw, the throttle plate and linkage, the throttle linkage again in detail so the cbles and screw adjustments are in view.
I don't believe there will be a high speed screw at all.
Then if you know how many internal jets there are. 2 or 3 are typical.
A lot of work i understand. I am expert in carbs, but am not familar with this one in my head.
The adjustment you made was AIR, which leaned out the over all fuel to air mix.
In the event you can not get me pics and ARE handy, what to do is run the engine , perhaps ride as many as 8 miles to be certain it is at operational temp. The refine ilde fuel mix, via the pilot screw, allowing the engine to show best over all RPM, with the air untouched.
Refine best RPM by going past best once you locate it. In other words turn the low speed mix screw OUT, and either with a tach, or ny hearing and feel, find best rpm, pass it untill the engine rpm drops a beat, then go back to best and back to rich 1/2 way of that missing beat.
'IF' RPM is high so be it for now.. let it be. Then drop the air via throttle plate controll (a screw as a stop screw for the T plate) to the idle you want. Then again refine mix to the new air setting, as above.
Always leave it at the rich side of best idle but not at the dip in rpm.
After that it will be a matter of knowing jet numbers which are drill sizes, slightly reamed for a no burr no clogging effect.
You did make an error, only very slight.
Other factors: the float may effect over all conditions. A low float level will create a lean engine, one hard to start, while a incorrect too high (doesn't turn the gas off in the carb float chamber on time) will create hard to start engine for overly too much (Rich).
On the carb dose the cable lift a slider piston directly, with the engine off?
Anyone else who knows this carb is very welcomed to chime in. Please do.
Re-read... "IF' you mean turning the low speed mix ala pilot screw that enters the carb body and would point to a place just behind the throttle plate, which woiuld be the mix screw, and it doesn't respond there is a clogg in the drillings some where before the screw. Typically this is from allowing carbs to go bone dry and then some and a white fuel oxide forms and it becomes impossible to move with harsh solvents at times. You could try soaking the parts in carb cleaners and or laquer thinner.
Again if you are handy a shot of compressed air BOTH ways can be a cure. Just don't go probing around with wires
OK. I didn't take pics today, but I followed your instructions. It seems my best idle is at 1200RMPs. That seems a little high to me, but at least it doesnt stall so easily.
Sounds a tad hight to me too, but not much. apx 200 RPM. Did this happen on the 2nd refining? There was supposed to b a discovery refine and once found, drop the throttle plate screw out, to enable the throttle plate to close a smigen more, and one last refine.
If you did, another way to lower RPM just a slight bit more is to set the MIX screw out adding fuel, but not too much. Might be 1/16th of a turn, certainly no more than 1/8th.
Other things that can effect a points and condenser system for ignition are worn point rubbing blocks, and burnt points, leaving a small pointy bit of metal so when the points close they make contact too soon.
This is called dwell which is time, the time the points begin to open and close, which is directly related to spark timing. Not enough points gap creates less dwell, = less time. Which shows as retarded spark time. or atleast not as advance time as the engine might require.
Other items can be bad plug wires, bad wire end resistor is you have any (bakalite end that clip on the plugs) weak coil(s)
I need to re-read the thread and see if i can find out iof this is a battery ignition or a magneto.
Sounds a tad hight to me too, but not much. apx 200 RPM. Did this happen on the 2nd refining? There was supposed to b a discovery refine and once found, drop the throttle plate screw out, to enable the throttle plate to close a smigen more, and one last refine.
If you did, another way to lower RPM just a slight bit more is to set the MIX screw out adding fuel, but not too much. Might be 1/16th of a turn, certainly no more than 1/8th.
Other things that can effect a points and condenser system for ignition are worn point rubbing blocks, and burnt points, leaving a small pointy bit of metal so when the points close they make contact too soon.
This is called dwell which is time, the time the points begin to open and close, which is directly related to spark timing. Not enough points gap creates less dwell, = less time. Which shows as retarded spark time. or atleast not as advance time as the engine might require.
Other items can be bad plug wires, bad wire end resistor is you have any (bakalite end that clip on the plugs) weak coil(s)
I need to re-read the thread and see if i can find out iof this is a battery ignition or a magneto.
Yes, on the 2nd refining. The bike sat for 40 years, so I think I may have to just take the damn carb apart and clean it. I have no idea what I am doing, but that is one of the reasons I bought this bike...so I can learn.
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