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We recently purchased a newly constructed home which, we were told, is built with a system to handle potential radon problems. Naturally, this gave us a sense of security..... a false one! NJ (at least some areas) has elevated levels and new homes are supposed to be built to handle this. However, after having the home inspected (by our own inspector - not the builder's) we learned that our radon "number" is more than double the EPA's acceptable number. It turns out that the system they install is only a passive one and only becomes active if additional equipment (fan?) is installed to reduce the radon level inside the house. This is just some advice to anyone who thinks they have a radon eliminating system, whether old house or new. Make sure it's active if it needs to be!
Just so you don't get ripped off by some radon contractor here is the price today of a typical radon fan. Of course you will have to pay for installation but since the ductwork is already installed it should not be an all day job,
From Graingers catalog,
Fan,Duct,4 In
Duct Fan, Centrifugal, In-line, Fits Duct Dia 4 In, CFM @ 0.000-In SP 122, CFM @ 0.200-In SP 100, Max Inlet Temp 140 Deg F, Voltage 115, 60 Hz FANTECH
FR100 1 Today $186.00
Just to clarify some stuff.
1. It's picocuries per liter - not million
2. 4.0 picocuries is the EPA action level - not just NJ.
3. The testing should ALWAYS be done in a "closed house" condition, meaning all windows must be closed before and during the test, exterior doors should be kept closed except for normal coming and going, and venting systems should not be used during the test (bath vents, cooking vents, ceiling fans, whole house fans, etc).
4. Testing is done is the lowest level living area. The unfinished basement scenerio aways brings a debate. The way it was explained to me when I took my EPA training (as well as continuing education) is: if it's not a garage, and it can be finished for living space by just installed drywall, it is the testing level. Obviously if there are no exterior windows or doors, then it probably shouldn't be tested. The EPA protocol covers it pretty well.
5. The protocol for real estate transaction testing is a 48 hour minimum test, or the "short term" test. (48 - 96 hours)
There is a little more that needs to be done besides just hooking up a fan. First the fan has to be "sized" properly - and it can make a difference. Second, a manometer has to be installed in the suction pipe so proper suction can be confirmed. There are few other minor electrical and labeling items that should also be done, but none of it big. The main thing is to make sure the pipe that is going thru the roof does not have a cap on it, AND it is NOT a plumbing vent. I have seen both.
There are also some other things that usually get addressed when a system is installed.
Radon mitigation contractors are supposed to be certified by the EPA, or have at least taken the required training. While it may look like a do it yourself project, there are several subtle things that can easily be missed.
Obviously, the house should be re-tested after the system is up and running for a few days. I don't do mitigation myself, but I do a lot of testing on systems after they were installed.
I'm going back to a house for the 4th time because they can't seem to get the levels down. The mitigation contractor has been doing this for over 20 years - he knows his stuff. Like I said, it's not as easy as it looks.
Just so you don't get ripped off by some radon contractor here is the price today of a typical radon fan. Of course you will have to pay for installation but since the ductwork is already installed it should not be an all day job,
From Graingers catalog,
Fan,Duct,4 In
Duct Fan, Centrifugal, In-line, Fits Duct Dia 4 In, CFM @ 0.000-In SP 122, CFM @ 0.200-In SP 100, Max Inlet Temp 140 Deg F, Voltage 115, 60 Hz FANTECH
FR100 1 Today $186.00
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You also have to pipe the fan duct (PVC pipe) work to below the basement floor by digging a pit or if you have one, vent through the sump pit, that's more costly than just the fan (which also needs electrical and is typically installed in the attic (for some strange reason).
It turns out that the builder is only responsible for the passive system and we need to pay for the fan and installation. They say it should be about $500 - more if there's no outlet in the attic (b/c they would have to install one). The thing that bothers me the most is the false sense of security about having a "radon system" in place but not realizing that it doesn't do anything unless there's a fan. I know it's important to read the fine print in the contract but I'm finding many other people (even other purchasers of new homes) who don't realize this either. I feel like this should be common knowledge... and I had absolutely no idea! I hope others can learn something from my experience!
Well, a passive system is sometimes all that is needed to reduce the levels.
The reason the fan is usually placed in the attic is because: 1: the termination point needs to be 'high", so going thru the roof is the best way, and 2: the fans work better by "pulling" the air, instead of "pushing" it.
There is also the noise factor, but the fans are really very quiet.
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