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I have to say, I spent three months in that neighborhood over the summer, and my opinion of the area changed drastically after I actually spent some time there. Let me explain.
Before moving there, I said I'd never live in Harlem. I lived at 196th and Broadway (border of Washington Heights and Inwood) and was happy with that area. All parts of Harlem seemed "worse" than Washington Heights. Then I moved to 153rd and Amsterdam. And I have to say, it was great! The area is actually a really nice pocket of Harlem called "Sugar Hill" which is full of diverse independent shops and beautiful brownstones. Just take a walk up Convent Ave and you'll quickly see what I mean.
It's a very diverse neighborhood which has everything you need for very reasonable prices, and it's not as sketchy as other areas of Harlem. I work evenings and had to walk home to 153rd from the 145th St A/B/C/D station every night at midnight, and I never felt like I was in danger. While Amsterdam isn't particularly interesting as far as shopping goes, there are a ton of stores on 145th and all along Broadway in the 140s.
I lived in a totally decent, clean one-bedroom apartment for $1,175, so I'm sure you'll be able to find a two-bedroom for $1,500.
The one thing I don't know much about is schools. What I will tell you is that I wouldn't want my children (which I don't have yet) going to schools in that area, if I'm able to choose. I'm not a native New Yorker, and my opinion is that I don't want my children attending NYC public schools, period. But that's just me. I don't know how the Harlem schools compare to other schools in Manhattan.
That's my experience. Totally decent neighborhood with all the amenities, great prices, and the D train always runs express downtown! Just do more research into the schools before you make your final decision!
I lived "uptown" for most of my life. This is not the best area for kids or for that matter adults. The apartment tend to be large but buildings are often dirty and in poor condition. I would consider, Inwood or Washington Heights as an alternative. You might find great options in family friendly neighborhoods in the outer boroughs, your money will go further here. Riverdale in the Bronx is very nice and the public schools test scores are above average, you will be able to find a very nice 2 bedroom for 1500 or 1600. Look at Queens or Brooklyn. Of course the trade off would be a longer commute to Manhattan. I have young kids too, a good strategy is to research the schools in the area you are considering. A good resources is GreatSchools - Public and Private School Ratings, Reviews and Parent Community, at the very least it will help you weed out the worst schools in the city.
All I'm going to say as someone who has been all over the Bronx and goes to school in West Harlem, is that for the many of you that think that the W.H area is nice, decent, etc.....you will have no problem whatsoever in the Bronx. So my question is why the two different opinions on them? It's like two brothers. Both are big tough kids, who are very experienced in fighting. They've been bullies all their lives. But yet people still pick fights with W.H, but avoid enitrely brother Bronx.
I guess the Manhattan perception really is there. People want to stay away from the "outer boroughs". It's crazy really.
Look the number streets look nice. So say 146th going towards Broadway is tame. But the strips (Amsterdam, Broadway) are so run down and down right nasty. On that corner of Amsterdam & 146th, you had African Americans hanging out obviously doing something not nice. I'm sorry I specified race but many of you seem to think that this area is mainly white now...the fact is it is still MAJORITY black and hispanic. This is for all you wanting to move there. On Boston Rd and 166th street in the HEART of the DREADFUL south Bronx....I passed the corner store and guess what I saw? African Americans hanging out up to no good. So unless the African Americans in Harlem are of a different breed than the ones in Morrisania (which I doubt, due to income levels) then those moving to Harlem should move to Morissania. Im serious, why stop there?
Oh it's not in Manhattan and everything in Manhattan is wonderful and safe. What a crock.
Take it from me people ...im in both places...Harlem is just as bad as the Bronx...if not worse!!!!!
And for the record...everyone commits crime. Whites, Blacks, Latinos etc.....So I am not singleling out anyone....replace the word African American with Latino if you want..IDC.
Hmm what do we see here....wonderful safe W.H (30th precinct) had a higher crime rate than gasp! the dreaded 52nd, 46th, and 44th precincts! o noes..
but wait...how can it be higher than Soundview (43rd)? You know the Soundview thats one of the worst nabes in the BX.....OMG higher than the 47th precinct with all the jamaican drug crews on WPR...unbelievable.
On the same level as East Tremont (48th precinct).
And just below S.BX.
You people really need to get a grip. I dare any of you to walk towards Bway on 138th street...pleaseeeeeeeeeeee..and come back and tell me about it....
It's insane....this Manhattan perception...i'm tired of it...I really am. You people dont know the hood....you just dont.
Well, I'm glad I was finally able to get online today, because I can give a newcomer's point of view. About a month ago, I asked about 142nd and Amsterdam and received some of the most "interesting" opinions that I could've ever imagined.
Mod cut
Second, of the people that posted in my original thread, the most accurate belonged to DAS and NooYorkur. Everything they mentioned, even down to the dude with the three Cadillacs has been true. I came back to the board to catch up and specifically re-read the thread because there were some places that they mentioned that I wanted to check out.
Now, I can't tell you much about the schools other than I passed one when I initially came to see the area. I don't know if was charter or not, but it looked like an elementary school.
The C-Town on Broadway, I think 145th, is very nice. I will not lie, I was initially hesitant to even go in, but the fruit and vegetables seemed fresh. The prices were amazingly reasonable. I assumed that they would just be gouging the blacks in the community, but Northland Cranberry juice was cheaper in there than it was back home. The bacon was fresh and so were the eggs. I was so happy with my purchases, that I was even going to relent and buy milk from there, but I'm all over the city and have just run into any supermarket that I'm near at this time.
I wrote all that to let you know that the "ghetto" is not being poisoned or ripped off by the C-Town. It is a small store, but a good one. I never shopped at the stores on the "black side of town" in Atlanta, because it was every horror story that has ever been rumored.
I don't know if you've walked up or down Broadway, but there are stores galore, national and local. There is this fish market that I went into the other day and I promise you, they might as well have just crossed over Riverside Drive after fishing to throw it on their ice, that is how fresh it looked.
Broadway in that block is busy, but I don't feel like it's dangerous. It is just crowded. Shady people? It's 2010. Strangers are shady. Strangers should've always been considered shady. Half of the people I see are just dragging a huge bag from somewhere.
The biggest problem I have had since I've been here was looking at this unbelievably long line at the Rite-Aid. I put my stuff back and left. The other problem I've had is that it seems, (I could be wrong) but it seems like I need to carry more cash than I usually do. Unless it's a national level store, it's pretty much cash and carry. I have yet to be desperate enough to use one of the numerous $10.00 ATMs, I don't even want to know the charges.
If at anytime you feel uncomfortable in the first few days or so, just walk down 145th to Broadway, there more than enough people on the street that you shouldn't be alone, even after dark.
Last edited by Viralmd; 02-25-2010 at 04:33 PM..
Reason: Could be viewed as a personal attack.
Mod cutThe reason people a lot of people prefer Harlem over the Bronx is because it's still in Manhattan and it's closer to downtown Manhattan in particular where many people work. I myself have stuck up for the Bronx repeatedly when you and others have said all kinds of horrible things.
All this being said I still love the back and forth banter.
Mod cut
Last edited by Viralmd; 02-25-2010 at 06:13 PM..
Reason: Off topic, perpetuating the argument.
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