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I lived in Fargo for 3 years. At first I liked it, but eventually I got frustrated with it.
I am just wondering if I might like Bismarck better if I explain what bothered me in Fargo.
First, let me say that weather is not what really frustrated me, and I know Bismarck will be about the same. (although there were always some days in winter when Bismarck would be a good bit warmer and the warmer air never made to Fargo)
Anyway, Fargo was always just too busy and crowded for me. Stores and restaurants were always so busy. Every time an event was going on, it would draw tons of people into town. The city was always invaded by Canadians on long weekends. Since Fargo was the biggest city in the region, it often was the hosting site for tournaments and meetings, bringing in even more people. College students also seemed to dominate.
Maybe what bothered me the most, is that Fargo seemed to becoming too progressive and I felt out of my league. I am very conservative. I don't have a lot of money, as I am on a fixed income due to a disability. But I am happy with what I have. Fargo and Bismarck are both affordable. But in Fargo, there seemed to be such a constant higher standard of living with constant spending and traveling being the norm. I am not saying Fargo was rich, but except for students, everyone seemed to have plenty of money. I saw a map showing that most of Fargo went for Obama in the last election, even though North Dakota went Republican, which made me even more aware I was not surrounded by people with the same views.
Fargo always felt like it belonged in Minnesota. Everyone seemed to have ties to the state anyway, and going to Minneapolis was second nature. When i moved to North Dakota, I was looking forward to more a simple, laid back, plains or even western feel. One of my co-workers once told me that Bismarck is nothing like Fargo, saying that Fargo was very cosmopolitan, and that Bismarck was full of country folks. Well, that would be just fine with me.
I have to live in a sizeable city because my disability does not allow me to drive. Bismarck also looks appealing because I could live near Downtown and be so close to so much, including a mall. The Bismarck metro is half the size of the Fargo metro. Fargo was too much for me, so I am hoping Bismarck will feel just right.
Do you think Bismarck would be a better fit for me?
Bismarck is much more conservative politically than Fargo. Much of what you are describing is accurate: Fargo looks to Minneapolis for inspiration, while Bismarck tends to lean more toward Denver (without it's politics).
By what you describe, Mandan is probably right for you (even more conservative than Bismarck) and less crowds. The Missouri River is quite a cultural divide in addition to a natural one: with ranches and natural resources the main economic drivers on the west side vs agriculture, commerce and government within Bismarck and east.
The most conservative ND "city" is probably Dickinson, but the oil boom has probably priced you out of that market.
I lived in Bismarck when I was a little kid, and in Moorhead MN immediately after (waving at folks across the river). Was last through there in 1972 so it's been a long long time, but... assuming both have "progressed" at about the same pace, I'd say your assessment is probably correct -- Bismarck is quieter, slower-paced, and there's less of it, and unlikely to ever be much more of it. We lived in a peaceful residential neighbourhood, yet my dad walked to work downtown (he was the manager at Monkey Wards), and there was a nice little grocery and a DQ only a block away.
Agreed, fourwinds, about how when you cross the river into Mandan, it's a different world. It's as if there's this boundary in mid-river between "farming" and "ranching" and the whole feel is different. I noticed that even as a little kid!!
Your assessment is probably correct, given that I know people who have made the move in reverse. In their experience, Bismarck was not a comfortable place for working women or gays and Fargo was more welcoming. So if you're looking for a more conservative area, you're on target.
I would say if crowds bother you, give dickinson a look if you are open to going that farther out west.
I would consider Dickinson, but it is a little too small. Since I don't drive, I need to have certain things nearby, and I am afraid I might not have all I need there. Bismarck has a transit system, and I don't know if Dickinson does. I know the Bismarck bus system may be limited, but at least it's something, and I would not need it all the time. Plus, my job has a location in Bismarck, but not Dickinson.
Anyway, thank you to all who replied. Bismarck does sound like a city that would fit me well. I have a few more questions.
I have read on this forum that people have said they had trouble finding apartment vacancies in Bismarck. I know the city has quite a few complexes, so is it really hard to find a simple apartment with no frills? Pets are not an issue either.
Also, is Bismarck fairly well sidewalked? And does the city enforce snow removal?
One thing that may help in your question about snow removal, I believe bismarck has there plows with the ability to not dump all the snow on the driveway. Reason I bring this up is that it makes snow removal easier for the housing owner, which I think would make it easier to keep the walkways clear.
Since you ask about the sidewalks -- I imagine what you can see here is still about typical for the older neighbourhoods. (This house was pretty old even when we lived in it. It had a boiler and old-type radiators, one of which was so old it had fancy scrollwork on the metal. At that time it had mature elms out front but lost them in the Dutch Elm plague.)
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