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Anyone have any experience with coyote rollers? We've got some small dogs (Poms) we need to protect once we move from here in suburban Seattle down to semi-rural SE Arizona.
My plan is to use a 6 foot chain link fence with either coyote rollers on top (or possibly a garden mesh extension (another 4 feet)) and a 4 foot wire fence apron along the bottom of the fence to prevent the coyotes from digging beneath the fence.
Does this sound like it would work?
I should also add that the dogs would only be allowed out during the day. At night (and when we're not there) we're planning on having a 10x10 covered dog run (with access provided from the house via a doggy door) for them to use for potty breaks.
Also, we have a cat that's "not that good of a pet" - cranky and dislikes being handled (you can pet her briefly if she wants something, but even then after about a minute or so, she'd get irritated and try and scratch you). We were kinda guessing we'd have to take her to the animal shelter here before we moved down there simply because she'd be difficult to travel with - and because it would be very difficult to keep her safely inside once we're down there (she's an indoor/outdoor cat) and that as a result she'd soon become coyote food anyway. However, I suspect these same coyote-proofing fence plans would keep her safely inside the fenced area as well - so now I'm thinking she may get a reprieve (really did NOT want to take her to the shelter - even though I'm not too fond of her (because she's so often pretty nasty)). She may also be helpful in killing the stray scorpion that finds it's way inside the house.
So, my 2nd question is - does that sound like it would keep the cat INSIDE the fenced area as it keeps the coyotes out (assuming it will do that)?
I would and do keep pets inside and out to go to the bathroom or longer if I am there. It is never good to let a cat roam.
Is the cat healthy? Has she been to a vet to see why he is like that? She could feel bad or have a problem with teeth, etc. Would surely be sad to give her up I would think.
I would and do keep pets inside and out to go to the bathroom or longer if I am there. It is never good to let a cat roam.
Is the cat healthy? Has she been to a vet to see why he is like that? She could feel bad or have a problem with teeth, etc. Would surely be sad to give her up I would think.
She's always been cranky ever since she was a kitten (she was a feral kitten). There may well be something wrong with her - I actually think there IS - but in my opinion it's a mental issue. We've had her something like 4 years now and it's just the way she is - not very friendly and not at all trustworthy in regards to not suddenly deciding to take a swipe at you. I love cats (all animals really) and have had them pretty much all my life - but she's just NOT a nice animal (and never has been).
In regards to keeping her inside - it's just not going to happen. We like indoor/outdoor living and refuse to be "sealed up in a can" living in an artificial air-conditioned house. We like it "open to the outdoors" with lots of fresh air and easy movement in and out - and such an environment is not conductive to keeping animals isolated inside so she WILL be able to go outside. I'm just trying to decide if we can keep her relatively safe. It IS afterall going to be a considerable challenge getting her down there on a 3 day trip.
It IS afterall going to be a considerable challenge getting her down there on a 3 day trip.
Not necessarily. I'm assuming from the three day mention, you're driving. Good. Excellent even - drug the cat. Go the "pharmacological solution" route.
Look at it this way: she is what she is and therefore some of what's going to be involved with the travel is going to cause her great stress. You need to minimize that stress because, in a way, it's stress for stress sake - ie, she's not likely to have to repeat the performance, it's a one off. A good dose of anti-anxiety meds or a mild sedative (their effects are very different) will do wonders for her and will take the worry out of it for you. Speak to your vet to discuss the options.
I live very rurally and have a fair bit of experience with coyotes. (LOL - one of the local packs just started up as I'm writing this.) I'm not quite sure what a coyote roller is, but it sounds unnecessary. I've yet to meet a climbing coyote. They dig. The apron route sounds a good route - there are lots of variations on the theme. I've found cut up "pig panels" - much heavier steel welded into maybe a 2 inch or so square mesh (don't take my word on that, I'm awful with sizes) - cut bits to suit (because it's one long panel when you buy it but cuts easily with bolt cutters) and push about a good foot down into the ground. I've found that to be the best deterrent. Coyotes aren't fools and when they hit the rock solid panel, they quit and move on. A good fencing contractor will probably have the best idea as to what's necessary - or not - for the particular area you'll be in. I'm sure there are regional variations to coyote behaviour and they should be the most familiar with what works in that part of the world. (They're called "pig panels" around here because they're about all that will keep wild hogs out.)
For the top of the fence, you can easily cat-proof it and be able to keep the cat inside the fenced area. I don't know what they're called, but you need a little thingy (that's the technical term ) that's shaped a bit like a 7 - only the top needs to be pointing into the yard, so a backwards 7. It can be anywhere from about a foot or more on each side - depends on the height you require. Attach long side to top of posts/fencing uprights, again with the short side pointing into the yard, and use standard chain link. It'll will prevent your cat from getting out.
Not necessarily. I'm assuming from the three day mention, you're driving. Good. Excellent even - drug the cat. Go the "pharmacological solution" route.
Look at it this way: she is what she is and therefore some of what's going to be involved with the travel is going to cause her great stress. You need to minimize that stress because, in a way, it's stress for stress sake - ie, she's not likely to have to repeat the performance, it's a one off. A good dose of anti-anxiety meds or a mild sedative (their effects are very different) will do wonders for her and will take the worry out of it for you. Speak to your vet to discuss the options.
I live very rurally and have a fair bit of experience with coyotes. (LOL - one of the local packs just started up as I'm writing this.) I'm not quite sure what a coyote roller is, but it sounds unnecessary. I've yet to meet a climbing coyote. They dig. The apron route sounds a good route - there are lots of variations on the theme. I've found cut up "pig panels" - much heavier steel welded into maybe a 2 inch or so square mesh (don't take my word on that, I'm awful with sizes) - cut bits to suit (because it's one long panel when you buy it but cuts easily with bolt cutters) and push about a good foot down into the ground. I've found that to be the best deterrent. Coyotes aren't fools and when they hit the rock solid panel, they quit and move on. A good fencing contractor will probably have the best idea as to what's necessary - or not - for the particular area you'll be in. I'm sure there are regional variations to coyote behaviour and they should be the most familiar with what works in that part of the world. (They're called "pig panels" around here because they're about all that will keep wild hogs out.)
For the top of the fence, you can easily cat-proof it and be able to keep the cat inside the fenced area. I don't know what they're called, but you need a little thingy (that's the technical term ) that's shaped a bit like a 7 - only the top needs to be pointing into the yard, so a backwards 7. It can be anywhere from about a foot or more on each side - depends on the height you require. Attach long side to top of posts/fencing uprights, again with the short side pointing into the yard, and use standard chain link. It'll will prevent your cat from getting out.
Thanks for the input. Medicating the cat is a good idea - I feel dumb I didn't think of it myself. We'll definitely do that. Also plan to use a cat carrier.
Here's a link to a company that builds coyote rollers:
It's essentially a roller installed along the top of the fence that's designed to prevent a coyote (or dog or cat) from leapfrogging atop the fence (or climbing up), placing it's front legs atop the fence, then bounding over to the other side. It works by preventing any animal from maintaining any kind of grip on the top of the fence. Sounds like it would work. I've not been around a lot of coyotes - though we DO have them here in the Seattle area - but as a kid I used to have a dog that literally climbed chain link fences and I've seen videos of coyotes doing the same.
Alternately we may consider a fence topper (as you suggest) of some kind.
Medicating the cat is a good idea - I feel dumb I didn't think of it myself.
- sometimes we get so caught up in the "impossibilities" of a situation that it's easy to bypass the closest "exit" sign. Do a bit of research because the different meds have different outcomes. In particular, acepromazine doesn't always work with cats, so that's something that, should your vet recommend that route, you might discuss giving a trial run. Last thing you want is a ballistic cat pinging off the sides of her carrier.
Definitely keep a cat confined in a carrier during travel. Safest for all.
On the fencing front - maybe coyotes in semi-urban environment behave differently than they do out here, because the statement on the roller website of coyotes being interested in what humans are doing is, where I live, complete BS. I live on a ranch and raise deer, so yes... I'm rather well aware of local coyote behaviour.
Don't forget the creepy crawlies. One thing I would advise you to learn is what you're legally allowed (local ordinances, HOA rules) to do when it comes to an unwelcome visit by Hissing Sid.
Sealed in a can is not how I would say it, but keeping pets safe is so important. Coyotes are a bad threat. I know someone that lost a little dog that way. Heartbreaking.
[quote=LordBalfor;13826268]She's always been cranky ever since she was a kitten (she was a feral kitten). There may well be something wrong with her - I actually think there IS - but in my opinion it's a mental issue. We've had her something like 4 years now and it's just the way she is - not very friendly and not at all trustworthy in regards to not suddenly deciding to take a swipe at you. I love cats (all animals really) and have had them pretty much all my life - but she's just NOT a nice animal (and never has been).
We also have a previously feral cat named Lola who behaves exactly the same way. She is very good for us when she is put in her carrier and I think it's because she knows that nothing bad will happen to her. Any pet who survives on their own is usually smart. Definitely take her with you. She will probably never be a lap cat. It has been at least 8 years since Lola showed up at our door and she will never sit with us and often takes swipes at us and the dog. Do whatever you have to do to keep her safe. However, I think those pets are the most needy because no one else would want them--just like some children.
We also have a previously feral cat named Lola who behaves exactly the same way. She is very good for us when she is put in her carrier and I think it's because she knows that nothing bad will happen to her. Any pet who survives on their own is usually smart. Definitely take her with you. She will probably never be a lap cat. It has been at least 8 years since Lola showed up at our door and she will never sit with us and often takes swipes at us and the dog. Do whatever you have to do to keep her safe. However, I think those pets are the most needy because no one else would want them--just like some children.
Yeah, that's my BIGGEST hesitation about taking her to the humane society. I'm generally against doing that AT ALL since I believe that a pet is a member of the family - so normally I wouldn't even CONSIDER it. However - the major risk to her down there, combined with the fact that she will be difficult to travel with has had me really wondering what's best.
However, the idea of sedating her during the travel days, combined with the prospects of actually being able to put up a fence that will actually keep her inside it (hopefully anyway) has me thinking that maybe we can make it work - which makes me feel a WHOLE lot better since as I said, I REALLY did not want to take her to the shelter (since as you mentioned, I can't see ANYONE really being willing to take her in (she's just too cranky).
OP - for what it's worth, we relocated internationally twice with a cat that had been born and raised in a monitored feral colony. She's a funny old thing, not at all "normal", but she does have quite a good disposition. She's terrified, and will literally cry, but she'll not scratch or bite. I felt awful for her during the travels (by air so no drugs) but... ya know what? She survived, absolutely none the worse for it. She's not like a normal pet cat and never will be - she is what she is. As she'd lived with us for about 18 months or so before move #1, at least if anyone was going to have to grab her (it requires military style tactics before you even attempt to "cut her off at the pass") at least it was me. I'm about the only person in the world she somewhat trusts. I'm sure your cat is not dissimilar.
I'll be blunt - the chances of your cat being successfully rehomed are slim to none. Fact: vast quantities of loving affectionate cats needing homes all across the country. So what are the odds someone is going to say "Oh, that one is a bit moody and has been know to give a good swipe? Fine, we'll have it." A definite long shot. She's far better off with the people she knows and at least are aware of her "funny little ways".
A bit like you we went from a very green and pleasant land to.... rattlesnake, copperhead, scorpion, tarantula, bobcat, wild hog and coyote territory. We have three cats and three dogs. They all adapted and adjusted.
Sorry - back to the fencing for a moment: I thought of another option for you, and that's a Y shaped thingy. While the 7 shaped keeps cats in, the Y (which is just two 7s back to back) will also keep climbing critters out as well as your cat in. Just another option for you.
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) that's shaped a bit like a 7 - only the top needs to be pointing into the yard, so a backwards 7. It can be anywhere from about a foot or more on each side - depends on the height you require. Attach long side to top of posts/fencing uprights, again with the short side pointing into the yard, and use standard chain link. It'll will prevent your cat from getting out.
- sometimes we get so caught up in the "impossibilities" of a situation that it's easy to bypass the closest "exit" sign. Do a bit of research because the different meds have different outcomes. In particular, acepromazine doesn't always work with cats, so that's something that, should your vet recommend that route, you might discuss giving a trial run. Last thing you want is a ballistic cat pinging off the sides of her carrier.
A definite long shot. She's far better off with the people she knows and at least are aware of her "funny little ways". 
