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For the experts here, I have a Canon S3 IS (not a DSLR) which does very well for me. I've tried to capture a waterfall like the one in this post where the water is not stopped but shows up as flowing.
My question is, how can I achieve this? I have tried slowing down the shutter speed and playing with the f-stop but to no avail. Either the shots are washed out (white as can be) or dark as the night. Any advice?
you must have a denisty filter in order to get that silky look. they are like sunglasses for your camera that will let you shoot longer then 1 second exposures in dayliight . they come in different strengths
Also, make sure that your ISO is set to the lowest value, then set your aperture to the largest numeric value (use aperture-priority mode). This will maximize your shutter speed within the bounds of normal exposure.
If this doesn't do enough, you will need a neutral density filter, as mathjak mentioned. If you have a polarizing filter, you can put that on to drop a couple of stops as well.
First, use a tripod. Shoot in manual (M) exposure mode. Use a very small aperture, say F18 or so. ISO100 or lower if you camera supports it. Set your shutterspeed to something arbitrary like 1 second. If your camera has a meter in the viewfinder, you can get close by adjusting the shutterspeed while looking at the needle. The correct exposure will probably require the needle somewhere to the left of center, but not pinned against the left (although that's not gospel). Take a shot, and review on the LCD paying attention to how the waterfall looks. I don't know if this camera has "blinkies" that show areas that are blown out or not. That would be helpful it if did. If it's too dark, make the exposure a little longer. Too light, or if the waterfall is "blinking", shorten the exposure. Once you get waterfall dialed-in, voila. You've just mastered manual exposure.
Once you can do this consistently, you'll most likely be looking for ways to improve the shot. For example, while the waterfall will look good, the foreground may be too dark. That will most likely require blending multiple exposures to correct, either manually, or by using an HDR. If you want to get the waterfall really smooth, that will require a neutral density filter (basically just a smoked glass) so that you can get your shutter speed slower. Triumph's alternative suggestion of using a circular polarizer is a good one and can help reduce glare off the waterfall and pond at the same time.
Don't even bother trying one of the automatic modes as you'll just get variable results as you've already seen. AV mode can be made to work for this scene if you understand exposure compensation. However, then you're fighting it. Shooting manual is conceptually simpler and will give more consistent results.
I am honored that you chose my photos as examples (though my waterfalls are actually a bit washed out ). I'll just reiterate what others have said. Definitely use a tripod, and using the camera's timer can help too, so you don't shake it when pressing the shutter button. As the shutter speed decreases, the aperture needs to be smaller (higher number) to compensate for all the additional light entering the lens. For example, if you have the camera in Program, and it shoots the scene at 1/150 sec. with an aperture of 5.6, you'll need something more along the lines of 1 second and an aperture of, say, 12 or more. The faster the water is flowing and the larger quantity there is, the faster shutter you can get away with and the less likely you are to wash out the photo. As others have mentioned, the ISO should probably be at 100 (or less if your camera allows it) and a neutral density filter will help some if you're still getting washed out photos. You should be able to shoot shutter priority (TV), but shooting manually gives you more control in this situation, and will be more likely to give you the results you want.
I have been experimenting with HDR and waterfall photography. I bracket my shots -2,0,+2 EV, use a ND8 filter, set my aperture to give me the speed I want(usually start with .8 second), set the timer and stand back. Waterfalls | Alaska Photography
I have the SX10 which is a couple of models beyond yours, but haven't tried it much for waterfalls. Used to have your model, but never photographed moving water with it either.
Seems that it makes a difference whether you just want the waterfall, or to included people. I'm generally satisfied with at least 0.5 seconds for just water. With people, that's a stretch for them to stand totally still. The shot below was 0.3 seconds, surprisingly decent with 3 people: each could have moved a little. The ISO was 200. (was a Canon T2i BTW). Brightness reduced a little.
That is Orphic Rock Falls (seasonal) near the Doerner Fir in southern Oregon.
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). I'll just reiterate what others have said. Definitely use a tripod, and using the camera's timer can help too, so you don't shake it when pressing the shutter button. As the shutter speed decreases, the aperture needs to be smaller (higher number) to compensate for all the additional light entering the lens. For example, if you have the camera in Program, and it shoots the scene at 1/150 sec. with an aperture of 5.6, you'll need something more along the lines of 1 second and an aperture of, say, 12 or more. The faster the water is flowing and the larger quantity there is, the faster shutter you can get away with and the less likely you are to wash out the photo. As others have mentioned, the ISO should probably be at 100 (or less if your camera allows it) and a neutral density filter will help some if you're still getting washed out photos. You should be able to shoot shutter priority (TV), but shooting manually gives you more control in this situation, and will be more likely to give you the results you want. 
