Auto Inspection + Emissions cost?

[hempfield mania]

If they aren't a lick 'em and stick 'em place, it takes at least 30-45 min. just to run all the diagnostics through the OBD II machine back to the state, write up all the paperwork properly, and remove and install new stickers. These guys do get audited regularly by the state, too.

Now, add in all the time to do the visual inspections and a quick test drive, and you are talking 1.5 hrs or so to do a "proper" passenger vehicle inspection (with only one guy working on it). If you have a larger truck or commercial vehicle, it only gets more time consuming.

[greg42]

I would think around an hour or just over total on most cars, but yeah. It's marginal at $60 but I don't think they'd be losing. At $30 they'd almost have to be losing money though so they'll be looking for something. I swear I've still seen some places saying $30 in the last year or so.

[Retiredcoach]

Originally Posted by greg42

Heh, one theory of this could be to choose a shop where the inspections cost more. The ones that are lowballing inspection and emissions for $30 are the ones who are going to need to make that up elsewhere. At 60 bucks or so they should be making money on the inspection itself, not a lot, but enough.

Most of the safety things you can check yourself, as noted. Check lights, wipers, etc. If you check engine light is on, get someone to read the codes and reset it. (You can do this at Advance Auto Parts for free.) If it's not on, it should pass, although it would be good if you can find out if any of your sensors are "incomplete". If you haven't driven a lot, this can be an issue, and you won't be able to get the emission pass that day until it stops reading incomplete. (I think you're allowed to have one incomplete, but not 2 or more.) If you've driven enough and in varied driving conditions (some highway, some town), this won't be a problem. If I reset mine they can stop being incomplete after 1/2 hour of driving usually.

With the costs of the machines to complete the Pa state emissions costing thousands, the hourly rate of a certified inspection mechanic, and the various associated shop fees, it would be nearly impossible for a service center to realize any profit at even the $60 rate that you assert. Car inspections are "loss leaders" for these businesses, much like a tremendous sale at a grocery store.... once you are at the business/store buying, the presumed hope is that your "shopping list" will expand.

If the OP is asking what to do , I would suggest: (1) pre-inspect the car yourself & repair those items that you can yourself (do not forget the wiper blades); (2) Inspect your tires for wear, especially if any part of the tire is below 2/32nds & replace in pairs if needed; (3) find a shop with a strong reputation of customer trust and fairness; (4) Set appointment & have your chosen shop to inspect your car ---- many reputable shops will show you the deficient parts & allow you to bring your car back to be re-inspected (at no charge) if you ask.

Most of the time, when your car is being inspected, current and projected problems are identified. For the current problems, it will be your option of whether to take your vehicle to another shop to have the work completed (possibly cheaper) and return, or to have it done and completed without the extra running around. If it were me, I would note the projected problems, and have the shop do only that work that is immediately needed to complete your inspection. Just my two cents.....

[SteelCityRising]

OP, mind if I piggy-back a bit on your thread since I'm also about to get my vehicle inspected here?

I am planning to go online on Sunday and finally purchase auto insurance from an agent who is licensed in PA. I will then go to their office on Wednesday morning, my next day off, and ask for a hard copy of my insurance identification card. I already have my PA driver's license. With proof of PA insurance and a PA license in hand, could I then schedule an appointment to get my car inspected for emissions and safety, or do I first need to make sure the car is registered in PA? I was on the DMV's web site, and I'm still a bit confused. It sounds to me as if you need to go to a third-party notary (any good recommendations?) with your license, insurance, and your title (or in my case I'm not really sure what since the bank holds my title), and they will stamp something that you will THEN have to go to the DMV with to get your car registered in PA.

Sorry to sound like such an airhead, but I only have until July 31 to get this all done. My car has been running fine; however, I have noticed lately that my brakes seem to grind lightly and lurch forward a bit sometimes when I go to brake, especially when coming down a hill towards a stop sign. I would think this might be an indication my brake pads would need to be replaced. I don't think this would be a problem with my rotors because I drove a vehicle before that needed to have its rotors replaced, and that thing made so much noise it felt like it was going to fall apart around me. My brake fluid may also be low, so I'll check into that. How much do new brake pads typically run for parts/labor for a 4-door sedan? Rotors? An entirely new brake system? (Please God no!) Also, call me a wussy, but for the life of me I haven't been able to figure out how to change my wiper blades. How much would a repair shop typically charge to do that for you, and would a place like Monro do that?

In short:

I have my PA license.
I will soon have proof of auto insurance from a PA agent.

^ With those what's the next step? Inspections? DMV? Notary? What would I need to have for the notary?

[Quiet-T]

Originally Posted by SteelCityRising

call me a wussy, but for the life of me I haven't been able to figure out how to change my wiper blades. How much would a repair shop typically charge to do that for you, and would a place like Monro do that?

Ha!
I too am a wussy.

I usually have the wipers replaced at the local quicky oil change place...
If you wan to make sure you aren't being overcharged for the wipers you could maybe buy them yourself at kmart or autozone and then ask the oil place to just put them on for you- I doubt they would charge extra for that...

[MeinGlanzendMotorrad]

Originally Posted by SteelCityRising

Also, call me a wussy, but for the life of me I haven't been able to figure out how to change my wiper blades. How much would a repair shop typically charge to do that for you, and would a place like Monro do that?

Goddamn.

Most places that sell them and have some sort of shop will happily put them on for you. Even Walmart. (Had a lazy day a few years ago, got laughed at by the guys in the shop) And since it takes literally five seconds per side they won't charge you (At least not if they're honest)

As for brakes, the parts themselves are under $200 for even higher end parts (Until you get into performance parts for higher end cars) but it's the shop labor that can get you. Expect to pay 2x to 2.5x whatever you paid for the parts on labor if they go by "THE BOOK" for their rates. If they charge actual labor by time it took, it shouldn't be too bad.


This weekend my "fun" job is replacing the rear brakes on my Saab. I'd say go buy the parts at Advance and come on over if your car needs brakes and I'll show you how it's done, but swearing at one set of brakes per weekend is my limit. (But in all seriousness it's a half hour job at most for just pads, maybe an hour for pads and rotors if the rotors are rusted on like mine likely are)

[greg42]

You can buy wipers at someplace like Advance Auto Parts or AutoZone and they'll put them on too I'm pretty sure. But yeah you can also get them at the chain repair shops.

The titling process is that you'll go to the third-party notary (AAA is a good option if you happen to have a membership, or just get one that day as the money it will save you just on the titling will probably cover half of the membership or more), then they will send it to the DMV, or you will have to send it to the bank. You won't have to go to both the notary and the DMV. The main form in this process is one that is not available online I guess for some kind of marginal fraud excuse. You will have to stop by an authorized inspection shop so that the mechanic can verify your VIN. In the old days you could do your own VIN tracing, and the info still mentions this, but in 20 years I haven't had a car that was capable of that, even with a car that would now be 26 years old. So it's pretty certain your car will need to have the mechanic peer in through the window and say yes that is the correct VIN. They won't charge you for this, but unfortunately the process is that you'll have to go to the notary/messenger place, get the MV-1 form started, then take that to the inspection place, then take it back to the notary/messenger place.

The good thing is that AAA and other so called online messengers could issue you a plate on the spot. The bad thing is that with your car title being held by the bank, there's an extra layer to this process, and it may not be pretty, so you won't likely be getting a plate issued on the spot. See this PDF for the info you need. http://www.dmv.state.pa.us/pdotforms/fact_sheets/fs-toos.pdf (broken link) The bank must release the title either to you or to the state after you forward the bank all your info to transfer the plate. This is a loan not a lease, right? If it's a lease the process is slightly less onerous and there's a separate form you do that you can get online. But if owned the most likely scenario is that you will be sending your paperwork to the bank after getting it completed, and the bank will have to send it on to the state. You'll have to talk to your bank about this. The info says, though, that a number of banks won't even do this and will instead insist that you refinance the balance. In that case your best course of action truly is going to be to renew in VA for now, so make sure to confirm this before finalizing your insurance.

[Kristinek]

It's just a complete ripoff