Leaving Portland: my thoughts on the city (Burns: appointed, best city)
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After living in Portland for over a year, I'm bidding my farewell (for reasons I'll explain a bit further down). Since I have no ulterior motive to either encourage or discourage people from moving here, I thought I'd offer some honest reflections on the city for those who are considering relocating. Let me warn you in advance that I am in no way skilled at being brief, so this will probably be long. Really, really long. Like, super long.
1) THE GOOD.
First of all, I have to say that Portland is -- hands down -- one of the loveliest, most livable places I've ever called home. The city is rich in character: neat architecture, quirky and charming neighborhoods, beauty in both the core metro area and in the old residential streets that surround it. On a sunny day, the views of the mountains are spectacular (though having lived in other mountainous regions, I wouldn't call the mountains a defining feature of Portland). Beautiful skyline, beautiful nightscape, beautiful waterfront, and of course the frequent rain keeps the landscape lush and vibrant. As someone who really values the visual elements of the place I live, Portland has been been extremely pleasing in this regard. Not that I judge on looks alone.
I don't own a car -- both because I don't want to pay for one and because my driving skills rival that of an 80-year-old blind woman -- so the walkability of the city is a huge plus in my book. If my feet can't take me where I want to go, a bus can. (Though unfortunately, due to the economy, a lot of bus lines are being cut or altered right now -- including the one that goes right by my apartment, which just lost weekend service). And for anyone who hasn't visited Portland, the rumors of the bike-friendliness around here are absolutely true. So for my lifestyle, it's been pretty easy schmeasy to get around. And judging from the other people I know here who don't have cars (or do and just never use them), I know I'm not the only one impressed by how well the city caters to the car-less.
I also dig the emphasis on green friendliness around here. Tons of co-ops, people who bring their own bags to the grocery store, interest in recycling and organics, and so on... it definitely seems like a big chunk of the population is concerned with their environmental footprint, which I think is awesome.
And the safety! Oh, the safety. I'm a 22-year-old female who likes to wander around outside at night when I can't sleep. Not a great habit, maybe, but it hasn't gotten me in trouble here in Portland. Yeah, there are some shady pockets like in any big city, but for the most part I feel completely comfortable being alone, outside, in the dark, even late at night. Part of this is due to knowing what areas to avoid (having learned the hard way, for instance, that it's not a great idea to walk through China Town in the wee hours of the morn), but generally speaking the city just feels non-threatening and safe, which is a good thing indeed.
Also, there are many sushi places around. I like sushi. A lot. If you also like sushi, a lot, you will be very happy about this.
2) THE NEUTRAL.
Homeless people. Yes, they're here. Yes, there are a lot of them (especially along Burnside and Pioneer Square). Yes, they will probably ask you for money. Every night, I hear the cryptic rattle of shopping carts on the sidewalk, pushed by the bums who scour local dumpsters for food in the dark. It's sad, and while all major cities have some form of homeless population, I've noticed that Portland's homeless are somewhat more "visible" than in other places I've been. That is, the homeless here don't just hang out in the slums or ghettos -- they're outside Whole Foods, roaming residential streets, sleeping in public libraries, etc.
After walking through downtown on a near-daily basis getting to/from work, I've learned to tune them out for the most part -- though occasionally I do encounter someone who is quite aggressive or frightening. Incidentally, the scary homeless aren't the ones after your money; they're the ones who are either drugged-up or schizophrenic and start yelling at you because they think you shot their uncle back in 'Nam. There are really three types of homeless around here: the street kids who want money for weed, the aforementioned crazies, and the "regulars" (ones who are in the same spot day in and day out, whom become quite familiar after you pass them for the 80th time).
I put this in the "neutral" section because, for the most part, the homeless are harmless 'round here. But, they are certainly part of the city.
Also "neutral" but noteworthy are what I like to call Portland Characters. Depending on your own preferences, the Portland Characters could be either a pro or con; they're a little of both for me. This category encompasses the wide range of unconventional folks you'll see on the streets -- the drag-queens in all their fake-eyelashed glory; the hipsters and scenesters; the Elvis impersonators; the mile-long dreadlocks; etc. It sure makes people-watching entertaining, but when I see a group of youngsters huddled together in matching thick-rimmed glasses, skinny jeans, sparkly ballet flats, and flannel shirts, I'm reminded that many folks here are more concerned with upholding their "image" than with pursuing more worthwhile goals (more on this later).
Thirdly: "THE BEACH IS JUST AN HOUR AND A HALF AWAY!" True that. I think the Oregon Coast is spectacularly beautiful, so I almost put this in the "good" category. Great place for photography and watching the sunset, that's for sure. Especially in the summer. However, for anyone coming from California or Florida or other warm, sandy-beach areas, keep in mind that the Oregon coastline is a fickle, windy, rocky, chilly place -- at least, it has been every time I've visited. Not always great for bare feet, and if you were born without body heat like I was, then you might be disappointed when you have to bundle up in sweaters instead of basking in the beachy sun. Let me emphasize, though, that it IS gorgeous... even if you only get to see it from the car window 'cause it's too doggone cold to get out.
Another thing I've noticed, both good and bad, is the "Portland Pride" attitude. People here are enormously proud of the city. They're proud of the eco-consciousness, they're proud of the beer, they're proud of the coffee shops, they're proud of the bookstores, they're proud of the mass transit, and they're proud of their proudness. In a lot of ways, this is a great thing -- much better than constantly ragging on your own hometown and complaining about how much it sucks. However, while it's nice so many people like it here, there is also this implicit sense that you're not allowed to say anything bad about the city. On more than one occasion, I've pointed out a gentle criticism of the city to a native, only to get the evil eye or a quick change of subject. Once, I was waiting at a bus stop with a lifelong Portlander who insisted Portland was the best city in the nation -- a claim he made despite having never, in his life, been outside of Oregon. Sometimes I feel that the hush-hush attitude about Portland's problems has led people to move here with unrealistic expectations about the city. A lot of folks seem to come here thinking Portland will "do" something for them, give something to them, that other cities can't. Yes, there are many positives to the Land of Port, but moving here won't magically help a person make something of their life just by virtue of them living here.
And last but not least, I'd like to comment on the general friendliness of Portland's population. This is an impossible thing to sum up and I don't like to generalize, but I will say that, by and large, folks here are amazingly polite and considerate. Smiles on the street, "hello's" to strangers, cars pausing (sometimes unnecessarily) for pedestrians -- it's all here. There is definitely NOT an "every man for himself" attitude; people look out for each other. However, the politeness and social conscience isn't the same as friendliness. I have found that social groups tend to be pretty insular; for whatever reason, people aren't too gung-ho about making new friends or letting other people into their cliques. I have heard this from many people who move here and have also experienced it myself.
3. THE UGLY.
The weather. Yes, I'm going to beat this dead horse one more time. I realize that some people truly do love that damp, low-hanging cloud cover that envelopes the Pacific Northwest the majority of the year. And the climate does yield a simply dazzling summer -- in fact, I can't imagine a more spectacular place to be from June to August. (For anyone who hasn't experienced a northwest summer, it feels like eating a really delicious peach while lounging in a hammock in the sun... right after having learned you've won the lottery and never have to go to work again. Yeah, it's THAT good.) There can be a few unpleasant heat waves in Portland -- I remember a week last year when I was plastered to my apartment floor, wilted and sweaty, saved only by the fan -- but for the most part, the summers here will rock your socks.
So why is this in the "ugly" category? Because the non-summer months are a whole different beast. Let me emphasize that this is my opinion, and everyone will react differently to the weather here. As I mentioned, some people love it. In my case, I found late fall through early spring in Portland to be one of the most difficult, depressing experiences of my life. (Story time!)
I am, by nature, a very happy and optimistic person. When I first moved here, I didn't realize weather could have such a profound affect on mood, nor did I know much about Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD) and how common it is around here. So when I suddenly became a mopey, unmotivated, despondent mess at the onset of Portland's gloomy months, I was baffled. I started getting sick a lot, previously having gone years without so much as a cold. My relationships suffered. My job suffered. It was a struggle to fall asleep at night and an even bigger struggle to lug myself out of bed in the morning; I NEVER had any energy. I didn't even know who I was anymore -- felt like a stranger to myself. A really grumpy unpleasant stranger, who never wanted to do anything ever.
It wasn't until December, when I flew to Arizona for the holidays, that I realized this was weather-related for me. My depression vanished after just one day in full sunlight. I felt completely back to normal. And then when I returned to Portland, so did my all-pervading sadness.
For those who might think I'm just a weather wimp, I will say this: prior to Portland, I attended college in a mountain town where the thermostat routinely slid below 0°F. I spent many mornings walking to school in sub-zero temperatures, unable to talk when I got to class because my face was literally frozen. There was wind like you wouldn't believe. The summers were filled with window-rattling thunderstorms. But, there were 300 days of sun per year. And I never had a lick of depression, even in various states of frost-bitten-ness.
I realize that there ARE occasional sunbreaks in Portland's winter; sometimes you can see a few veins of blue in the sky, and other times you can actually see shadows on the ground. But let's face it, this place is pretty darn grey for a large chunk of the year. One thing that's also overlooked is that, due to Portland's latitude, the length of daylight in the winter is significantly shorter than in areas closer to the equator. I don't feel the sunrise/sunset statistics give a good sense of this, either, because when it's cloudy it gets dark at least an hour before the official sunset. So, winters feature A) cloudy wet days in which B) you go to work in the dark and come home in the dark. For people like me who physically need sunlight to function normally, I think this is a serious issue to be considered -- particularly for those who have never lived this far north or who are from very sunny places. Don't assume it won't affect you.
Bottom line: the weather, for me, is such a huge obstacle for enjoying life in Portland that it's the prime factor in my choice to leave. I know there are alternatives like getting SAD lights, but I find the idea of sitting under a special lamp to alleviate depression to be depressing in itself -- I don't want to need artificial means to return to my natural, happy state.
Whew! On to the next point: the direction and ambition (or lack thereof) of Portlanders.
This one may be specific to the 20-something age group, as these are the people I most frequently interact with. While I have no problem with the whole "laid back" attitude Portland is known for, I'm kind of disturbed by the general lack of motivation I see among people my age. It seems a lot of them are perfectly content living in someone's basement, working a minimum-wage barista job, getting high all weekend, and spending their meager earnings on comic books, records, and funky retro thrift-store clothing. As someone who has a lot of ambition and wants to accomplish many things in life, I have trouble understanding how this kind of lifestyle would be fulfilling or beneficial to Portland's social and economic health. Maybe it's because I'm from a college town where the young folks were working towards degrees -- here, there just isn't as much interest in getting an education. Unless it's at art school, maybe. In Portland, my generation's emphasis seems to be more on conforming to noncomformity -- to embracing this image of rebellious uniqueness, which involves buying certain clothes, getting certain bodily regions pierced and tattooed, listening to obscure music, and generally following the rules of a rather superficial "alternative" sub-culture. I find this disappointing because the 20-somethings are flocking to Portland in hoards, perceiving it as some holy land for all things artsy and indie... and with the young-people influx comes stagnancy and a growing unemployment rate.
Speaking of unemployment rates: jobs in Portland. I did that unmentionable thing of moving here without a job, and I was lucky -- VERY lucky -- to find one shortly after getting here. However, most people aren't so fortunate. The job market here really is as bad as people say it is. I routinely apply for gigs posted on Craigslist in order to supplement my income, which is about 2/3rds of what it was in my previous town (for the exact same job). You'll find it again and again on this board, and heed the advice: don't move here if you don't have a job solidly lined up -- or, at the very least, a nice hunk of money in the bank that you don't mind using up. Competition is fierce. Employers get flooded with resumes from people who have been trying for months to get work. Even if your resume is a stunning masterpiece of skills and experience, don't assume you'll find something right away.
And with that, I'll end this novella. Hopefully some of these points will be helpful to someone, anyone, out there in the cyber-abyss.
I'd add that the homeless is going to be more visible in any place that has mild weather. I lived in New Orleans and I'd say that there may be even more "visible" homeless there, especially around tourist areas. This was "pre-Katrina" though. Here in Michigan, you almost never see homeless because it's so cold. Also MI has MUCH lower cost of living too.
There's definitely a culture difference depending on where you live. The Midwest has super-strong work ethics, while the PNW, mainly in the cities seems to tolerate the "bum lifestyle" more.
I'd add that one of the best things for me when I lived in Oregon was the amazing variety of fresh produce and beer and coffee. I miss those SO much!
One of the worst, as a parent was the decline of the public schools there.
Pretty much agree with everything else. Winters here are much worse as far as being no sun, and temps that'll kill you if you get exposed for an hour or so.
Oh, lack of bugs is a BIG positive for Oregon, after living in New Orleans and Michigan. Not that I hate bugs, but the mosquitoes, tics, fire ants, stinging caterpillars really are bothersome at times.
You seemed to touch on a point that I've also noticed. Oregonians tend to be very friendly and courteous. However they also tend to be a tad aloof.
By contrast residents on the East coast can be very rude and uncourteous up to a point, but once they get to know you they seem to enjoy a deeper friendship.
First, let me compliment you on a very well-written, expressive post! I am moving to Portland as soon as my house sells in Florida, and being 55 years old, securely employed via telecommuting, with no school-age children, and a preference for wild, rocky, chilly beaches, a lot of the things troublesome to you won't be bothersome to me. I was raised in Ohio, where in winter the sun usually does not shine at ALL for months, so days with small breaks of sunshine will be okay by me. I'm not a really ambitious person and I like the emphasis on living life rather than striving so. I expect Portland will suit me very well.
However, in reading your post, I am curious; why did you move to Portland in the first place? As an intelligent person, surely you must have read a good bit about the city before moving there; what is it that attracted you, and how did you hope your life would improve by moving there? And lastly, to what area are you relocating that you feel will be more suitable to you?
However, in reading your post, I am curious; why did you move to Portland in the first place? As an intelligent person, surely you must have read a good bit about the city before moving there; what is it that attracted you, and how did you hope your life would improve by moving there? And lastly, to what area are you relocating that you feel will be more suitable to you?
I can't answer for the OP but I want to make a comment about the value of research. My husband and I are both intelligent and we read a TON of stuff before we moved to Portland. On paper and online, it looked like the perfect place for us. In real life, we were unhappy. Research is a pale substitute for experience.
Well written OP. I was born and raised in Ptown and of course didn't know any better until I moved away.
I want to move back to the NW but it won't be on the "wet side"...I couldn't take all the grey days again after living for years in sunshine some times too much sun.
The homeless on Burnside is nothing new, in the 50's it was a lot in native americans who had been ousted by the government from their reservations and forced to an urban environment, I don't know what that current homeless population is today but they have always been there from what I remember. It's very sad.
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