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Old 10-04-2012, 07:30 AM
 
Location: Sunny FLA
700 posts, read 1,806,061 times
Reputation: 325

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Howdy! I'm thinking about putting a floating dock next to my boat lift off the main dock. We have a 10x10 approx fixed dock with the lift off to the side. Can't get on the boat while on the lift at all. Thought about putting in an 8x16 dock next to the boat lift. High tide is about 4' at the seawall. Blow out tides it would rest on the bottom. I was wondering if this is a good idea with the boat wakes that come though. One roller loop would be on one of the main boat lift poles, the rest would be jetted 3" PVC pipes. I figured I'd space the dock away from the seawall about 24" so any flex it wouldn't hit the concrete.

Is this a stupid idea that would fail when the first boat throwing a large wake came through? We do get a good bit of traffic through the canal.

Any thoughts are most welcome!!!!
Thanks!
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Old 10-04-2012, 08:45 AM
 
Location: Punta Gorda and Maryland
6,103 posts, read 15,016,874 times
Reputation: 1256
Quote:
Originally Posted by daFrogMan View Post
Howdy! I'm thinking about putting a floating dock next to my boat lift off the main dock. We have a 10x10 approx fixed dock with the lift off to the side. Can't get on the boat while on the lift at all. Thought about putting in an 8x16 dock next to the boat lift. High tide is about 4' at the seawall. Blow out tides it would rest on the bottom. I was wondering if this is a good idea with the boat wakes that come though. One roller loop would be on one of the main boat lift poles, the rest would be jetted 3" PVC pipes. I figured I'd space the dock away from the seawall about 24" so any flex it wouldn't hit the concrete.

Is this a stupid idea that would fail when the first boat throwing a large wake came through? We do get a good bit of traffic through the canal.

Any thoughts are most welcome!!!!
Thanks!
I have a smaller floating dock. It isn't very stable, so be careful. The good thing about it is that it raises and lowers with the tide, so if someone falls in the canal - they can climb up on the floating dock and get out. Jetting the poles is a good idea, I have 3 tie-off points for 3 out of the 4 corners, and that doesn't work too well. I think I'm going to jet or drive a post in for the 4th corner. 8 x 16 should be pretty stable, mine is 4 x 6, and although it will support a lot of weight, its size is not very stable when you're around the edges.
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Old 10-04-2012, 08:51 AM
 
Location: Lemon Bay, Englewood, FL
3,179 posts, read 5,957,331 times
Reputation: 1170
I always wondered why in the world so many docks & lifts are installed around the area with the lift positioned in front of the dock, leaving NO access to the boat from the dock. When I designed my 40ft dock, the builder was dumbfounded that I actually wanted easy access to my entire boat from the dock. I stuck with my design, and the result is, I LOVE IT.
Regarding your floating dock, if it makes your boarding easier, go for it! Plus, if you make it mobile (not permanently connected to the PVC pilings), you can use it as a raft/work platform for exterior boat maintenance. I'm planning on installing a floating extension for easier kayak launching. Not too concerned about the boat wakes. The polyethylene floats are fairly rugged.
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Old 10-04-2012, 01:06 PM
 
Location: Florida
1,646 posts, read 3,001,950 times
Reputation: 1125
You can pick up a 16-18' pontoon boat with no motor for well under $1000...sometimes even free. They make a great stable floating dock and no permit needed.

I would not worry about boat wakes. Secure it with poles and safety ropes. I would worry about 3" PVC lasting though.
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Old 10-04-2012, 04:19 PM
 
Location: Anthem, AZ
2,118 posts, read 3,754,437 times
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I built a 5'x12' floating dock. You can see it on my blog under a chapter called DIY FLOATING DOCK or you can oe see it here, frogman, since you know where live. I did it for about $500.
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Old 10-04-2012, 06:47 PM
 
Location: Port Charlotte
1,721 posts, read 2,765,355 times
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Chris i had a floating platform 6'x8'' ish I covered it with wood to match my dock with leftover material. Mi drove 2 bars into the mud and with 2 eyebolts on the raft it rides up and down on the bars. Where im at. Oat tend to not slow down untill they get past my doxk so it see some wakes and i e never had damage from them. I do have to make a repair that happened in debby when ths water Me over my dock and put a strain on the eyebolts.
So what did you get for a boat?
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Old 10-05-2012, 07:17 AM
 
Location: Port Charlotte, FL - Dallas, PA
5,097 posts, read 4,860,945 times
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Does the county require a permit for a section of floating dock?
Right now I have the remains of a dock consisting of some rotted pilings and an old boat lift, which neighbors say hasn't been operated for the past 10+ years. I would like to have the old pilings removed and new ones installed. Because of the cost involved, I was thinking of finishing the deck of the dock myself (as I did in Maryland). Having a floating section would make it much easier and as a plus I'd be able to use the floating section for the kayaks and row boat.
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Old 10-05-2012, 08:49 AM
 
Location: Punta Gorda and Maryland
6,103 posts, read 15,016,874 times
Reputation: 1256
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikMal View Post
Does the county require a permit for a section of floating dock?
Right now I have the remains of a dock consisting of some rotted pilings and an old boat lift, which neighbors say hasn't been operated for the past 10+ years. I would like to have the old pilings removed and new ones installed. Because of the cost involved, I was thinking of finishing the deck of the dock myself (as I did in Maryland). Having a floating section would make it much easier and as a plus I'd be able to use the floating section for the kayaks and row boat.
LOL - if you sneeze you need a permit to ask for a hanky, and your wife needs one to give it to you. I'm sure if you do a good job, and do minimal disturbance to the water while installing it, you'll be fine. I'm sure with your experience, and seeing what works and doesn't work - it will turn out nice.

I anchored my dock to a cleat I installed in the sea wall, and was chastised for it. I had to remove the cleat and patch the drilled anchor holes. Thus my dock is only tied off on 3 corners - and that doesn't work very well - I think I'll drive a corner post and tie the other corner off there.
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Old 10-05-2012, 09:42 AM
 
Location: Lemon Bay, Englewood, FL
3,179 posts, read 5,957,331 times
Reputation: 1170
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikMal View Post
Does the county require a permit for a section of floating dock?
Right now I have the remains of a dock consisting of some rotted pilings and an old boat lift, which neighbors say hasn't been operated for the past 10+ years. I would like to have the old pilings removed and new ones installed. Because of the cost involved, I was thinking of finishing the deck of the dock myself (as I did in Maryland). Having a floating section would make it much easier and as a plus I'd be able to use the floating section for the kayaks and row boat.
You do not need a permit for a floating dock, since it is not considered a "permanent structure". New dock pilings will cost $200-300/ea to have installed. There are numerous reputable companies around that do it, and quickly. I agree, do the braces and decking yourself if you have the knowledge and means. It is VERY simple and you'll save thousands $$$$! Use heavy duty treated lumber and 3/4" or 7/8" stainless bolts for mounting the braces to the pilings, or better yet, threaded rod that you cut to length (cheaper than bolts). The better you build it, the longer it will last
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Old 10-05-2012, 10:39 AM
 
Location: Port Charlotte
535 posts, read 1,023,645 times
Reputation: 166
Quote:
Originally Posted by Harbor Hopper View Post
You do not need a permit for a floating dock, since it is not considered a "permanent structure". New dock pilings will cost $200-300/ea to have installed. There are numerous reputable companies around that do it, and quickly. I agree, do the braces and decking yourself if you have the knowledge and means. It is VERY simple and you'll save thousands $$$$! Use heavy duty treated lumber and 3/4" or 7/8" stainless bolts for mounting the braces to the pilings, or better yet, threaded rod that you cut to length (cheaper than bolts). The better you build it, the longer it will last
I believe a permit is required to put in the pilings
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