Boat lift "bunks" question (house, installing, area) - Punta Gorda - Port Charlotte - Florida (FL) -Charlotte County - Page 2 - City-Data Forum

Harbor Hopper · 02-05-2015, 05:36 AM

You will have absolutely no problem going either way with a 20ft boat. Just make sure the lift being quoted is the same size (i.e. 8,000 lb capacity) from each company so you get an apples-to-apples comparison. Also get the pilings wrapped with heavy duty PVC wrapping, not the thin junk a lot of guys are going to now to save money. Shrink wrap then PVC wrap is best. Personally, I like buying lifts of craigslist (MUCH cheaper used than new), but being new to it all, go with a new one with warranty. Have them install an electrical outlet at the lift for battery charging, shop vac, etc... along with a hose bib for flushing & cleaning. Good luck!

Big House · 02-05-2015, 01:36 PM

I have a 21 footer, I bought my house in 2008, and they were on our lift then. They are still on the lift, and I don't see a thing wrong with them. I think they'll last for years to come.

MikeM8560 · 02-05-2015, 01:43 PM

I have 2x10 wood bunks, the only problem I had was I replaced the cradle from rusty Steele beams aluminum and I had to had weight to keep the wood from floating the lift and loosening the cables.

Big House · 02-05-2015, 02:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeM8560

I have 2x10 wood bunks, the only problem I had was I replaced the cradle from rusty Steele beams aluminum and I had to had weight to keep the wood from floating the lift and loosening the cables.

Mine has weights on each end of the lift, are just some lead, in a 4' piece of 4" PVC pipe that is capped on both ends, and it is strapped to the lift with good straps that are still in great shape - they must have some UV protection. So the weights is a very simple thing to add.

Harbor Hopper · 02-05-2015, 02:41 PM

Another option (and cheaper) are slings that cradle the hull. They allow you to float your boat in shallower water (i.e. low winter tides) because you only need enough water required to by your draft (motor up), whereas the bunk style needs an additional 10" or more (I-beam height + bunk height, minus of course a few inches that the "V" of the hull will sit between the bunks)
Our canal is pretty shallow in the winter (lowest I've seen so far was about 1ft) and I was still able to float my 21ft with the sling lift I installed.

Macgregorsailor51 · 02-05-2015, 05:01 PM

as I mentioned and an easy fix.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeM8560

I have 2x10 wood bunks, the only problem I had was I replaced the cradle from rusty Steele beams aluminum and I had to had weight to keep the wood from floating the lift and loosening the cables.

rock creek · 02-05-2015, 05:21 PM

My new 12,000# aluminum lift has wooden carpet wrapped bunks and I've never experianced the floating problem. I have had a light duty aluminum trailer float, quite a problem while trying to retrieve a boat

MikeM8560 · 02-05-2015, 07:01 PM

I placed a cinderblock over each guide post and filled the holes with concrete did the trick

EDS_ · 06-19-2020, 01:50 PM

Sorry to necro and old thread and I'm an interloper from Dallas.

I have an DC/solar powered overhead lift the skeleton of which is welded oil field drill stem pipe.
The lift, motor, cables etc. yield roughly a 8,500lbs. very safe capacity.

My boat (Four Winns H-23) weighs 3,900lbs. dry. So figure 4,600 or 4,700lbs. with a full fuel burden and some stuff.

My current cradle was built for a wake boat it works but the bunks don't fit my boat isn't adjustable, again being made of welded drill stem with brackets for wood bunks. My boat is a stern drive sport/cruiser.

I want to install (2) 5" x 9'6" steel beams each rated at 4Klbs. distributed load.

Here are the real thoughts/worries.

1). Due to existing mounting points the beams will be 10'10" on center apart, which as I gather is just a bit over normal.

2). For a lot reasons, including the fact that my boat as flat areas running aft towards the nose under the hull perfect for bunks. I'd like to mount (2 total) 2" x 12" x 16' pressure treated #1 boards and mount them in a vertical orientation, again the flat areas under the boat.

From an simple engineering standpoint 2 2x12s running a 10'10" span carrying ~4,500 pounds is no issue - especially as likely 75% of the weight will be over or nearly over the rear steel beam (certainly not centered between the two beams). What do you guys think?

twowilldo · 06-19-2020, 03:47 PM

We have a 29' Intrepid WA sitting on (according to the city's permit records) a 12K High Tide Barracuda lift. It weighs approx. 7800#. We don't keep fresh water in the tank and we don't fill it unless taking it out (250 gallons).

The original lift had flimsy, weathered wood bunks when we first arrived. We installed aluminum bunks that have rubber treads along with carpet wrapped wood (marine treatment) shims along the back halves to support the rear portion of the stepped hull.

Our neighbors have a mix of either wood or aluminum, but the heavier lifts seem to favor aluminum for bunks. A new house is being built on the basin where we live and on the new lift those bunks are aluminum, set up for a future tri-toon...

Something to look into... consider installing walk planks on top of the cradle so you can access the sides of your boat while it is on the lift. Easier to wash and wax it. Home Depot sells aluminum scaffolding planks, a whole lot cheaper than what the dock builders charge.

Congrats on the new boat, enjoy!