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"Complaining" is not what I'm doing; I'm just trying to get the best rate possible. Also, me knowing enough about repairing cars myself is irrelevant here, because I already know I'm not a mechanic. And to answer your question, yes; I've purchased all my own parts. This is why I strictly addressed LABOR when speaking about cost. I've already explained that I plan on buying a new car, but not right this second. And I gave my reason....
You're complaining that he wants to charge you 3 hours labor, and you think it should be less than that. I get that you want to make sure you aren't being taken advantage of, but I'm just saying I don't think you are. A fly-by-night mechanic working at his house may charge a lower rate, but it's going to take him far longer.
What's a sign that a transmission is approaching end of life? I haven't had any audible sounds or signs that it's failing. But yeah, if that happens, I'm done.
1) Fluid which is discolored (dark brown or black). This is a sign of advanced wear and/or overheating.
2) Fluid which is discolored (Pepto-Bismol pink). This is a sign of water infiltration, probably from the heat exchanger in the radiator.
3) Fluid which has an acrid or "burned" odor.
4) Fluid which has a gritty feel. Slippery is good, gritty is bad.
5) A delay between shifting from Neutral into Drive or Reverse and the car actually moving.
6) Flaring. That means the engine momentarily racing as the transmission shifts from one gear to another.
See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sgX7AYkKias
A flare occurs at 0:12 in this 21-second video.
First you wrote "The mechanic I usually use, who works out of his home in Durham is wanting too much for labor."
A few sentences later, in the SAME post, you wrote "Just wondering if anybody "knows a guy" that maybe works solo so I don't have deal with a shop and help them pay their rent."
In another post, you wrote "My mechanic in the past has switched the coils around, and was able to get the light off for me to pass inspection."
Sounds like he was trying to HELP you because you wouldn't or couldn't really address the problem at hand. Now he is trying to rip you off?
In another post, you wrote "The engine coils and struts both hinder really safe driving. The car is vibrating badly due to the busted strut, and I've been told by two mechanics to repair that FIRST, because it's crucial. The engine coils are causing my car to misfire, or give a "skipping" feel in the accelerator when I press it; like it's not catching. There's also a burning smell coming from my engine due to the fluid leaks. I'm a nurse, and work long hours; therefore I've been putting this off, but I can't any longer."
Let's review-
"Your mechanic" has advised you to fix things in the past. You refused (the reason is not important) and postponed the work. He HELPED you by manipulating the car to get it to pass an inspection that it shouldn't have. Now HE is the bad guy here?
I would go back to him, thank him for his help in the past, and let him fix the car PROPERLY if you intend to drive it thru the summer.
Or, I would go trade it in now, with the understanding that its lack of value is due to neglect.
Yes, I've purchased my own parts from 1A auto online. (Just the struts and ignition coils) They're being shipped this week.
Consider having your spark plugs replaced at the same time the coils are replaced. It is necessary to remove all the coils in order to replace all the plugs. Hence, a considerable labor saving if both service procedures are performed at the same time.
A Diagnostic Trouble Code which indicates a misfire may be caused by ...
1) A faulty coil.
2) A worn-out or fouled spark plug.
3) A faulty fuel injector.
It's difficult to distinguish which of these failures caused the misfire. In the case of your Maxima's VQ30DE-K engine the coils are a known problem so that's a reasonable assumption.
Plugs, coils, and injectors are much easier to reach and service on the front bank (the three cylinders closest to the front bumper) than those of the rear bank (the three closest to the windshield).
First you wrote "The mechanic I usually use, who works out of his home in Durham is wanting too much for labor."
A few sentences later, in the SAME post, you wrote "Just wondering if anybody "knows a guy" that maybe works solo so I don't have deal with a shop and help them pay their rent."
In another post, you wrote "My mechanic in the past has switched the coils around, and was able to get the light off for me to pass inspection."
Sounds like he was trying to HELP you because you wouldn't or couldn't really address the problem at hand. Now he is trying to rip you off?
In another post, you wrote "The engine coils and struts both hinder really safe driving. The car is vibrating badly due to the busted strut, and I've been told by two mechanics to repair that FIRST, because it's crucial. The engine coils are causing my car to misfire, or give a "skipping" feel in the accelerator when I press it; like it's not catching. There's also a burning smell coming from my engine due to the fluid leaks. I'm a nurse, and work long hours; therefore I've been putting this off, but I can't any longer."
Let's review-
"Your mechanic" has advised you to fix things in the past. You refused (the reason is not important) and postponed the work. He HELPED you by manipulating the car to get it to pass an inspection that it shouldn't have. Now HE is the bad guy here?
I would go back to him, thank him for his help in the past, and let him fix the car PROPERLY if you intend to drive it thru the summer.
Or, I would go trade it in now, with the understanding that its lack of value is due to neglect.
That's just me.
Ugh. First off, you're connecting the fact that he works out of his home and him overcharging me, and I don't know why; I never said one had to do with the other. Him working out of his home is an aside to the labor costs. I never implied that all at home mechanics rip people off. And by the way he use to actually own a shop, but sold it, and he's now semi-retired. I also never said he's not tried to help me. OBVIOUSLY he has, or wouldn't have kept going back him, but that doesn't mean his labor rates were high all along and I didn't know. I based that on comparing labor prices elsewhere. The other mechanic I compared his labor costs to isn't available to fix my car when I need him to based on my work schedule and his availability.
I never REFUSED to fix anything; it was just a matter of time and money.
I also never said he's the bad guy.
And the value of the car has nothing to do with how much money you put into it; I could repair every single thing wrong with it, and won't get that money back when I trade it in. The make, model level, features and mileage is all that will matter at trade. But thanks.
Consider having your spark plugs replaced at the same time the coils are replaced. It is necessary to remove all the coils in order to replace all the plugs. Hence, a considerable labor saving if both service procedures are performed at the same time.
A Diagnostic Trouble Code which indicates a misfire may be caused by ...
1) A faulty coil.
2) A worn-out or fouled spark plug.
3) A faulty fuel injector.
It's difficult to distinguish which of these failures caused the misfire. In the case of your Maxima's VQ30DE-K engine the coils are a known problem so that's a reasonable assumption.
Plugs, coils, and injectors are much easier to reach and service on the front bank (the three cylinders closest to the front bumper) than those of the rear bank (the three closest to the windshield).
.
Yes, I've researched Nissan blogs and forums of people complaining about their check engine light, and finally having to get coils replaced. This was a big problem with this model year, and the one after it. I was going to get the plugs changed too, as another person had already advised me to this. Plus, I read it somewhere. Thank you for your help.
... The car is vibrating badly due to the busted strut ...
This part of your symptom report is worrisome because vibrations are usually associated with a rotating component (tire, wheel, wheel bearing, constant velocity joint). A strut's normal motion is vertical compression/extension but not rotating. There may be more to this story...
1) Fluid which is discolored (dark brown or black). This is a sign of advanced wear and/or overheating.
2) Fluid which is discolored (Pepto-Bismol pink). This is a sign of water infiltration, probably from the heat exchanger in the radiator.
3) Fluid which has an acrid or "burned" odor.
4) Fluid which has a gritty feel. Slippery is good, gritty is bad.
5) A delay between shifting from Neutral into Drive or Reverse and the car actually moving.
6) Flaring. That means the engine momentarily racing as the transmission shifts from one gear to another.
See https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sgX7AYkKias
A flare occurs at 0:12 in this 21-second video.
Choice Auto Repair (which is a Nissan specialist) in Raleigh, are the ones that told me my transmission fluid was "dirty and needed flushing," but never said anything about grit, so I don't know. I don't have any delays between shifting or the engine racing at all.
... the lower right and left control arm bushings are bad ...
This repair is expensive. See 8:55 in this 12:10 video to get an idea of a bad control arm bushing. If your steering wheel jerks after hitting bump, failed bushings could be responsible.
Gosh, you can't afford a new car right now but maybe you can't afford to wait either. Do you have transportation to/from work in case this Maxima lays down and dies?
Ugh. First off, you're connecting the fact that he works out of his home and him overcharging me, and I don't know why; I never said one had to do with the other. Him working out of his home is an aside to the labor costs.
Actually, you specifically requested a referral to "someone who works solo out of his house" (your words) after you told us he already works solo out of his house. I am connecting him working out of his home to him already having low overhead compared to all of those evil car repair facilities with actual trained technicians and equipment that you want to avoid.
I never implied that all at home mechanics rip people off. I never said you did.
And by the way he use to actually own a shop, but sold it, and he's now semi-retired. Not relevant. You are not going to his shop. You already think he is trying to overcharge you, and now you are suggesting that because he used to own a shop he is a better choice? If he still had the shop, would you take the car there instead of his driveway and pay more?
I also never said he's not tried to help me. OBVIOUSLY he has, or wouldn't have kept going back him, but that doesn't mean his labor rates were high all along and I didn't know. I based that on comparing labor prices elsewhere. The other mechanic I compared his labor costs to isn't available to fix my car when I need him to based on my work schedule and his availability. It doesn't matter what another mechanic will or won't charge if you cannot use his services.
I never REFUSED to fix anything; it was just a matter of time and money. Okay, you win. You CHOSE not to make recommended repairs because of time and money.You DECIDED not to make recommended repairs because of time and money. You ELECTED to not make needed repairs because of time and money. You pick the word. They are synonymous.
I also never said he's the bad guy. No, you just suggested that he had been ripping you off all along. I see little difference.
And the value of the car has nothing to do with how much money you put into it; I could repair every single thing wrong with it, and won't get that money back when I trade it in. The make, model level, features and mileage is all that will matter at trade. But thanks. If you have to push or tow it into the dealership or it dies before you get a chance to, that will matter way more than make/model/mileage/features on a 16 year old Nissam Maxima that by your own admission barely runs. On its best day that car might bring $1,000 at auction.
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