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So this is an odd issue that I'm trying to figure out.
About 1.5 months ago we had our hot water tank replaced. After that, we had an issue with low water pressure in the house. The plumber came back out, said the pressure valve was likely going and that I should replace it, but he adjusted it slightly to compensate. It was a little coincidental to me, but he said that turning the water off/on and dislodge sediment and cause issues with the pressure valve. I suppose this makes sense.
All was fine until about a week ago, I started hearing random rumbling/vibrating sounds in the house. It's not frequent, maybe twice a day, but it doesn't seem to happen when the water is running. It's really hard for me to tell where it's coming from - it's either coming from a wall somewhere, or the crawl space I believe.
As those of you in Cary probably know, they increased water pressure a few weeks back. I have the plumber coming out yet again, as they say that this and the combination of the failing pressure valve is likely causing the issue.
Has anyone had a symptom like this? I'm just trying not to go down a rat hole which will cost a ton of money, but if pressure is really the issue I want to have it fixed asap before more damage is done.
I can't help with the rattling pipes, but I didn't know about Cary increasing water pressure. When a plumber was at my place last week he found that I had 90psi at an outdoor spigot, and suggested replacing the PCV. I'm wondering if I should have them try adjusting it first? It's not an overly expensive replacement, so maybe I'll just go ahead with it to get it out of the way.
How did you determine that you were having a low pressure issue? Did you use a pressure gauge? One common problem after water heater replacement (or any other job where the plumbing system is "opened up") is that sediment/debris in the pipes can become dislodged and then plug up the aerators on your faucets. After a big job like this, the plumber should have removed all the aerators to flush out the pipes. A plugged-up aerator can make you think you have a pressure problem, which is why I asked if you used a pressure gauge.
Pressure regulating valves (PRV) do go bad but they usually do so in such a way that the house water pressure slowly goes up, not down. This build-up in pressure could cause vibration or the valve itself may be chattering.
Anyway, I would recommend investing in the $9 gauge and checking it yourself before calling a $100/hour plumber.
I can't help with the rattling pipes, but I didn't know about Cary increasing water pressure. When a plumber was at my place last week he found that I had 90psi at an outdoor spigot, and suggested replacing the PCV. I'm wondering if I should have them try adjusting it first? It's not an overly expensive replacement, so maybe I'll just go ahead with it to get it out of the way.
I would just replace it - I should have just replaced mine and been done with it.
How did you determine that you were having a low pressure issue? Did you use a pressure gauge? One common problem after water heater replacement (or any other job where the plumbing system is "opened up") is that sediment/debris in the pipes can become dislodged and then plug up the aerators on your faucets. After a big job like this, the plumber should have removed all the aerators to flush out the pipes. A plugged-up aerator can make you think you have a pressure problem, which is why I asked if you used a pressure gauge.
Pressure regulating valves (PRV) do go bad but they usually do so in such a way that the house water pressure slowly goes up, not down. This build-up in pressure could cause vibration or the valve itself may be chattering.
Anyway, I would recommend investing in the $9 gauge and checking it yourself before calling a $100/hour plumber.
I knew it wasn't the aerators because pressure would start out fine and then drop off. Plumber confirmed.
I can't help with the rattling pipes, but I didn't know about Cary increasing water pressure. When a plumber was at my place last week he found that I had 90psi at an outdoor spigot, and suggested replacing the PCV. I'm wondering if I should have them try adjusting it first? It's not an overly expensive replacement, so maybe I'll just go ahead with it to get it out of the way.
I'm near Cary High School and 90psi is what I'm getting from the water meter. So my guess is that your PRV is not working at all. They are usually preset to 50psi.
I knew it wasn't the aerators because pressure would start out fine and then drop off. Plumber confirmed.
That does sound like a failing PRV, and the pressure gauge would confirm it. With no water running in the house, the pressure measured at the gauge should remain constant. Last time my PRV failed, the pressure would be at 45psi immediately after turning off an inside faucet, but would slowly rise to 90psi after several hours with no water running.
Just curious - what do plumbers charge to replace a PRV?
That does sound like a failing PRV, and the pressure gauge would confirm it. With no water running in the house, the pressure measured at the gauge should remain constant. Last time my PRV failed, the pressure would be at 45psi immediately after turning off an inside faucet, but would slowly rise to 90psi after several hours with no water running.
Just curious - what do plumbers charge to replace a PRV?
Hm. Well if it's not the PRV I don't know what it is.
One common problem after water heater replacement (or any other job where the plumbing system is "opened up") is that sediment/debris in the pipes can become dislodged and then plug up the aerators on your faucets.
^This.
Happened to me after my water heater was replaced. I took off shower heads and faucet screens/filters and removed sediment and my pressures were back to normal.
First make sure you have a pressure regulator. Found my 25 year old Pulte home did not even have. Also single handle faucets can easily clog up internally.
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