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If CEL is on, and the issue is fixed, is it immediately ready to pass inspection or has to go through a drive cycle first?
If the CEL light magically/temporarily goes away, can it pass inspection?
In other words, when they pull the codes, would they be able to see a history of a recent CEL code and fail inspection based on that?
If you're in a hurry: drive it at posted speed from the Triangle to Rocky Mount, down to Benson, and then back. Odds are, it will pass inspection at that point unless the underlying problem is still broken.
If CEL is on, and the issue is fixed, is it immediately ready to pass inspection or has to go through a drive cycle first?
If the CEL light magically/temporarily goes away, can it pass inspection?
In other words, when they pull the codes, would they be able to see a history of a recent CEL code and fail inspection based on that?
Generally the best way to solve the issue is to clear the codes once the item is fixed and drive the car 50 miles or so doing normal driving routines. In other words to set readiness statuses it will have a certain sequence set by the manufacturer, but doing things like starting it, getting up to highway speed, then stopping and shutting it off will check some boxes. Check enough and it will show ready. If you have a code reader (they are super cheap on Amazon) and a free app for your phone you can pull the readiness status yourself.
Thanks my CEL is off, but my DSC is on. Seems I "should" be ok to pass.
My 2 cents: get it inspected whether it pass/fail. You will then prove you tried to resolve the problem after the fail. Keep all of your mechanic receipts and if they exceed ($300-$400) you are able to apply for a waiver. Get it checked out regardless. There is NO penalty for a failed inspection and the cost for the inspection wouldn't be any more than a normal check.
One year I had a Jiffy Lube refuse to bring it into the bay because I told him a light was on. The DMV officer's head exploded and wanted to pull their license to inspect. That is the year I got a waiver and sold the car to a motorhead before it came up again next year.
After correcting the defect which triggered the Check Engine Light the technician may reset the CEL but this sets all the monitors to Not Ready status. Normal driving will set the monitors, one by one, to Ready status. There is no set number of miles or days which will achieve this. It will happen when the right number of Drive Cycles have been completed. That number is determined by the vehicle manufacturer, and the vehicle model.
To perform an OBDII Driving cycle do the following:
Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.
Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.
Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.
Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.
Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.
Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.
Thanks for the advice. I'm aware of the drive cycle (xxx miles) after codes clear before it will be ready for inspection again. This is just a car I do not drive often at all, and last time the drive cycle was more than 100 miles before it was ready for inspection again. How do I know? Because I took it back to the inspector center 3 times thinking it was ready and each time it hadn't exceeded the drive cycle mileage needed yet LOL
Also because the DSC warning light magically cleared today when I started up the car and I'm thinking I should just get it inspected ASAP before it comes back again, hence wondering if previous/recent codes are stored and inspection center can still detect it.
Generally the best way to solve the issue is to clear the codes once the item is fixed and drive the car 50 miles or so doing normal driving routines. In other words to set readiness statuses it will have a certain sequence set by the manufacturer, but doing things like starting it, getting up to highway speed, then stopping and shutting it off will check some boxes. Check enough and it will show ready. If you have a code reader (they are super cheap on Amazon) and a free app for your phone you can pull the readiness status yourself.
Everyone should own an OBD reader IMO. 20 bucks to instantly know, generally, what is wrong with your car every time it breaks down/has an issue. Saves so much money over the life of the reader.
Thanks for the advice. I'm aware of the drive cycle (xxx miles) after codes clear before it will be ready for inspection again. This is just a car I do not drive often at all, and last time the drive cycle was more than 100 miles before it was ready for inspection again. How do I know? Because I took it back to the inspector center 3 times thinking it was ready and each time it hadn't exceeded the drive cycle mileage needed yet LOL
Also because the DSC warning light magically cleared today when I started up the car and I'm thinking I should just get it inspected ASAP before it comes back again, hence wondering if previous/recent codes are stored and inspection center can still detect it.
If it's been 100 miles you can take it to the main inspection place in downtown Raleigh and they will issue the registration sticker. I had to do that with a car I owned briefly. Was super easy and they were friendly.
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