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Old 09-16-2008, 11:39 AM
 
Location: NC
48 posts, read 298,168 times
Reputation: 45

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Okay, so we are close to closing on a new construction, but there is no gutter drainage system in place. The inspector says this is common in NC, but I still feel we should have one. Does anyone know what the typical cost for someone to install (we are not handy) a generic -not fancy- gutter system for a 2 story 2200 square ft house? Also, any recommendations on who can do the job?
Thanks!
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Old 09-16-2008, 11:44 AM
 
1,788 posts, read 3,920,686 times
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About $500 give or take $100. I suggest really searching as the price estimates will vary greatly.
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Old 09-16-2008, 01:24 PM
 
Location: Cary, NC
43,291 posts, read 77,115,925 times
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You need to consider the installation specifications.
Gutters done wrong are VERY expensive over time.

Nothing fancy below, just a gutter installation that will serve you well over time.
I would expect to pay at least $5.00/linear feet of gutter and downspout, and maybe more. Aluminum and other metals had spiked up in price since I last priced gutter.

You want:
Seamless aluminum gutters
Most likely 5" gutters. 6" is uncommon on residential applications.
Gutters should be hung with heavy hidden hangers, preferably 1" to 1 1/4" wide, that clip into the front "roll" of the gutter, and snap down over the back. A screw through the clip in back also goes through the gutter, and is a very secure method of hanging the gutter.
Hangers should be installed a maximum of about 30" apart. Closer is better. Too far apart, and the gutter will collapse when a ladder is placed against it.
The hangers should be screwed, not nailed to the fascia board.

Gutter end plates should be sealed thoroughly with a gutter sealant, specifically for that purpose. It is a very volatile caulk that has enough solvent in it to flow into the metal joint and seal it well.

You want to be sure that the gutter is tight to the fascia, and that there is adequate shingle overhang to drop the water into the gutter. You do not want water to get behind the gutter and into the fascia.
If the shingles do not overhang adequately, you may want a starter flashing installed under the edge of the shingles to overhang a little farther over the gutter.

Downspouts should be 4" x 3", not the typical 2" x 3". 4x3 will drain water from the gutter much faster, and will not clog with leaves as easily. Getting water out of the gutter minimizes the weight that the gutter has to support. Also, will help keep the gutter from overflowing in a heavy rain.

Outlets for downspouts should be 4x3. Often, jackleg guys will use a round 2" outlet or 2x3 outlet. You can't tell from the ground, and the downspout will not allow water to drain any better, even though you paid for the larger dowspouts.
The outlet should be sealed, just like the gutter end plate.

Install an outlet and downspout on both ends of a gutter over 28 feet long, unless it is a very small roof area, like a 5' x 30' porch.

It is preferable that a 2nd level downspout not drop water back onto the lower roof, like a porch or garage roof. This wears the shingles out quickly, and can rot out the plywood roof deck. Once the water is under control, keep it in a downspout or gutter until it is expelled to ground or a drain.
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Old 09-16-2008, 01:33 PM
 
Location: Durham, NC
1,232 posts, read 3,781,501 times
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WeLoveNC View Post
Okay, so we are close to closing on a new construction, but there is no gutter drainage system in place. The inspector says this is common in NC, but I still feel we should have one. Does anyone know what the typical cost for someone to install (we are not handy) a generic -not fancy- gutter system for a 2 story 2200 square ft house? Also, any recommendations on who can do the job?
Thanks!
I've received a couple of quotes for gutters, downspouts and leaf enclosures for a turn of the century 1800sq ft. home. The gutters and downspout quote was somewhere in the neighborhood of 850-900 dollars (aluminum). The leaf enclosure covers, an add-on for less maintenance (either a cover or a pourous material insert) was an additional cost equivalent to the gutters. However, there appeared room for negotiation.

If I was at home in NC right now, I'd give you exact quote numbers. But I am on assignment in CA at the moment and have no access to the quotes. But they are generally the numbers I quoted.

Good luck and let me know what you end up going with and how much.
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Old 09-17-2008, 01:52 PM
 
Location: NC
48 posts, read 298,168 times
Reputation: 45
Thank you so much everyone for your input and advice. It has helped a bunch....now to convince my husband to do it without hiring
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